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Thread: Had to adjust arrow rest to the right (Onza 3)

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    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    Default Had to adjust arrow rest to the right (Onza 3)

    Compared to my initial Onza 3 tuning almost a year ago (shooting "bullet holes" to paper and broadheads hitting the same spot with field tips), the biggest drift has been with the need to move my arrow rest more to the right to maintain proper tuning (the bow is RH model). The change was more than 1/10" compared to the initial tuning. The nocking point needed almost no adjustment.

    Actually there is not much extra vane clearance left anymore with the riser after this adjustment, the rest is so close to the riser now. I would have rather kept the arrow rest where it was...

    I wonder what actually causes this. The cables (and most probably, also the string) have stretched a bit, but does it have an effect to this? I could imagine that as stretching of the cables decreases some tension, also the sideways component of the force (due to the cable guard) decreases. And this would then cause the need to adjust the arrow rest sideways, as the "side balance" of the bow becomes different. But I wouldn't have expected such a relatively large need of sideways adjustment. If this theory was correct, I could of course add some twists to the cables and string and get the situation back to where it was.

    Last spring, I changed the cable slide to a model that lets the cables stay closer to the center, since I could get enough vane clearance even so. I remember that I had to move my sight pins a bit to the right after that. I don't remember if I also had to re-tune the arrow rest, though. I think I will test this tomorrow with another cable slide that takes the cables more to the side. I would expect the tuning to change.

    I don't recall having noticed a similar tuning issue with my old bow (Martin Phantom II, not a parallel limb bow).
    Last edited by Phantonza; 01-15-2013 at 07:06 AM.

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
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    Senior Member TEN RING's Avatar
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    The first thing I would do is check your spec's ata, brace hgt. poundage and go from there
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    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEN RING View Post
    The first thing I would do is check your spec's ata, brace hgt. poundage and go from there
    Could do that, but I would like to understand what really causes the difference with the arrow rest and if my reasoning above was any good.

    Brace height is unchanged (with my measurement accuracy, anyway), ATA is a bit longer (1/4...1/2" if I remember correctly), indicating some stretch. Pounds I didn't measure yet.
    Last edited by Phantonza; 01-15-2013 at 07:44 AM.

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
    Martin Onza 3, 2011
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    Martin Phantom II, 2003

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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Did you change arrows or anything like that? Did you sight window get bumped one way or another?
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    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by droppixel View Post
    Did you change arrows or anything like that?
    No.

    Did you sight window get bumped one way or another?
    Not sure if I understood the question...

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
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    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    One thing to consider is that as your strings stretch, your poundage will go down a little, making the arrows you use seem a little "stiffer" than they were before. This could, I suppose, (depending on the amount of stretch/loss) change your center slightly...
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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Did your sight get moved in either direction, could it have shifted from where you had it set. Bringing your pins out of alignment with your original center shot setup could have an effect on it ...
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    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by droppixel View Post
    Did your sight get moved in either direction, could it have shifted from where you had it set.
    That wouldn't make a difference anyway, since sight movement doesn't affect paper test or boradhead tuning. It was the arrow rest I had to adjust - and of course, also my sight after that.

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
    Martin Onza 3, 2011
    Hoyt CRX 32, 2011 (SOLD)
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    Senior Member Lab Rat's Avatar
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    Could your draw length change enough to mess up form? I have read that the left tear for right hand shooter is common if draw length is too long. Also could you be getting any rest or facial contact? I tried using FOBs but my stupid face would cause them to kick the arrow a little. Also have you tried a bare shaft?

  10. #10
    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wscywabbit View Post
    One thing to consider is that as your strings stretch, your poundage will go down a little, making the arrows you use seem a little "stiffer" than they were before. This could, I suppose, (depending on the amount of stretch/loss) change your center slightly...
    Good point, but I don't believe that theory. I have never noticed that a "too stiff" arrow would make any difference with compound bow (it's a different thing with traditional bow, of course, since it does not tolerate too stiff arrows because of archer's paradox).

    I have sometimes tested this: when the bow has been tuned properly with paper test, it shoots perfect "bullet holes" also with a stiffer arrow.

    In contrast, too weak arrow would be a problem.

    Anyway, I'm sure the difference in pounds is quite minimal. I could also easily test it by screwing the rest two full turns to my limb bolts.

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
    Martin Onza 3, 2011
    Hoyt CRX 32, 2011 (SOLD)
    Martin Phantom II, 2003

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