I am thinking about trying a P-loop or a torqueless loop. I have read some articles on them, and I am sure that you guys have some experience with them.
I am thinking about trying a P-loop or a torqueless loop. I have read some articles on them, and I am sure that you guys have some experience with them.
You're not talking about one of those metal gizmos that clamp onto the string are you? Yikes!!!! Don't do it!![]()
http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
http://cascadianbowmen.com/
Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade
The P-loop is basically a loop that is made of bowstring and serving that attaches to the bowstring below a tied in set of nock points. It attaches at one point and can freely rotate around the string but is served in to not move up and down. Some claim that they last a lot longer and they do not cause torque caused by different angles in the release hand. Someone did a study with a shooting machine varying the angle of the release at 60 yds and saw a pretty good change to the group size using it over a regular d-loop.
Years ago when I first learned of this loop style I heard it referred to as a "Pro loop." It does essentially the same thing as using a regular loop with a tied nock inside the loop under the arrow nock. It to puts little down pressure on the arrow nock point when you draw. I did'nt like it, other than shooting FOB as it help get the FOB away from my face. I perfered the D loop type, as it 's easy to tie and can be replaced in the field if needed. Look @ archery report Catfish/Touqeless loops. Goggle it.
Last edited by Tosi; 01-30-2013 at 09:32 AM.
Ranger 6
2011 Fire Cat 400 (Custom)
2013 Alpine Verdict (Custom)
2013 Alpine F1 Fire Ball
2012 Mathews z7 Magnum
2002 PSE Excellerator
i used a catfish-loop and liked it because you can actually measure and control the exact length of the loop. i used it for 'drawlength micro tuning' in order to be able to use the exact same anchor point every time (even if i had to replace the loop).
with an adjustable draw stop peg of course, this isnt necessary any more, you can fine tune your draw length with the peg..
the fact that normal tied d-loops can stretch and get longer sometimes, when you draw your bow the first few times with it, is still a bit anoying though.