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Thread: paranoia

  1. #1
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    Default paranoia

    hey guys, i dont want to bug you with my idler wheel, but i repaired my bow with the spacers (thread "damaged idler wheel - repairs") and now i dont dare to draw my bow, maybe im a bit paranoid but im afraid the bow will blow up or something when im at full draw...

    i guess i will just have to shoot the bow to find out if theres something wrong with it, but i have one last question: is it normal for a single cam bow, that the string runs not exactly even/ straight through the idler wheel on both sides of it (frontal/ archers' view; target view)?? i couldnt get this on camera, so i tried to draw this...

    Idler Wheel.jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member gravedigger's Avatar
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    yes sir i believe it is...dont be stand offish,get on out there and shoot that thing and see if all your work paid off.

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    thanks!!

    it worked, everything seems to be fine.. thanks!
    Last edited by Lukeiio; 02-01-2013 at 09:59 AM.

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    It's quite common, necessary if you will, for the cable to come off at an angle on the back side. The string has to pass through the cable slide which is off center.. On the side facing the archer it should come off the idler wheel straight, usually at full draw. This is neccessary to reduce lateral nock travel.

    I saw your other thread but the pictures were too blurry for me to discern what you were trying to discribe. Sorry. Next time try backing off a little with the camera. You were closer than your camera would properly focus. Resize the pics to about 1/4 their original size.
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  5. #5
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default paranoia

    First up, your parania has been shared by many of us. Try a bow blowing right in your face when working on it. Ain't a happy experience, nor is having one blow up at full draw. Okay, been there, done that.... If really scared, back off the limb bolts to a lesser draw weight, makes thing easier to handle should a problem arise. About 99% of time it's just nerves and not a bow failing.

    I am a little confused of why a 2011 idler and 2012 bow, I believe that is what I read in your other Post. Still, properly shimmed the idler should be centered between the limb tangs.

    I didn't see where you noted the model of the bow...

    I am unsure of the placement of the guide rod. Center of riser or in a slot that runs across the side of the riser?

    If the guide rod is in the center of the riser; It appears you have what is called "cam lean" though a idler wheel. Sort of a simple check and fix for a Martin bow, no press needed. Lay a arrow shaft across the idler face running parallel to the bow string. Check each side of the idler. Wheel leaning, the arrow will try to cross the string instead of running parallel to it. Simple fix in most all cases is twisting up one side of the yoke and untwisting the opposite side of the yoke. Fine tuning the yoke may only take 1/2 twist or untwist. And it's not unusual to have add or subtract more from one side or the other of the yoke. Of course, being a Martin bow you can back off the limb bolts and have enough looseness the twist and untwist the yoke ends.

    Try this and get back with us. bfisher and several others in here can help if this is the lean problem you have.

  6. #6
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    I am a little confused of why a 2011 idler and 2012 bow, I believe that is what I read in your other Post. Still, properly shimmed the idler should be centered between the limb tangs.
    i had to replace my idler wheel because i dropped my bow and the wheel was damaged. martin parts are hard to get in austria, i found a shop in germany who had martin ilder wheels but only 2011 models and my bow is a 2012 bengal. the guys from the shop said that it would be compatible with a 2012 bengal. when i finally got the wheel and installed it, i noticed that there was still some space between the limbs and the wheel and the metal spacers from the old wheel werent enough to close that space. so i used the plastic spacers the shop sent me with the wheel.

    i kind of improvised the whole time, this is one of the reasons i was scared and im still not sure if everything is alright with my bow. besides i dont know if anything else but the wheel was damaged when i dropped the bow..

    On the side facing the archer it should come off the idler wheel straight, usually at full draw
    the string comes off the idler wheel like in my drawing -> not straight! it appears to be not straight at full draw as well
    i pressed the bow completely and removed the upper limb, it seems to be normal and straight and not damaged.

    It appears you have what is called "cam lean" though a idler wheel.
    eureka! i believe this could be the problem!! i found an older thread here in the forum and my wheel looks exactly like this!!
    (http://martinarchery.com/mtechforum/...-Bengal-issues!)

    thank you all very much, i will try to fix this lean problem asap!!!

  7. #7
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    I just took some measurements and on the left side of the bow, the A2A from pins in the limbs is 32" on the right side its 32 1/8, should that be close to the same?
    (quote from the older thread; dougaldy)

    same here!

  8. #8
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Then you need to do as Sonny explained and twist one cable yoke and/or untwist them both to straighten out the idler. A fairly simple chore being as you have a bow press. Don't be surprised if it takes up to 5 twists to accomplish this. You can hold an arrow along side the idler to use as a straight edge. Extend it down along the string and it should run parallel with the string.
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    ok, i think i fixed it!

    wheel lean.JPG

    maybe i should do half a twist more on the left side (black cable), but the wheel is perfectly straight at full draw now and i dont want to mess it up again..

  10. #10
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    For 1/2 twist I'd say leave it alone and go shooting. At least now you know what to do in the future and how to do it. Simple, right?
    Last edited by bfisher; 02-05-2013 at 09:33 AM.
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