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Thread: Bow tuning tip

  1. #21
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    Bow tuning tip; Record information for your bow...bow you presently shoot that is.
    Just posted this in my ranting weather Post. Tore my bow down to the bare riser, checked everything, put it back together with new rest, new tied string nocks and new d-loop. How close was I to what it was for sights? Dead on! Unbelievable, but true. Yes me did get it that close... horizontal adjustment, center shot, I knew I was dead in the X before. I just moved the rest until I dead in the X again. Shot back to 40 yards and still in the bull's eye. Feeling good this morning...well, about how the bow came out, I picked on the X ring of the 40 yard Pronghorn insert and caught the X ring at 11:00. If the weather cooperates I'm hitting the 3D course...but probably tomorrow as it is misting and calling for rain and dang overcast right now at 9:16 am.
    Last edited by Sonny Thomas; 09-03-2014 at 08:24 PM.
    Former and current Back Yard Champion. I beat myself

  2. #22
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    I noted of this a couple of replies ago. Here is Tim's write up.

    Understanding Torque Tuning
    By: Tim “the Hammer” Gillingham

    Over the course of your archery experience you may have come in contact with many opinions on many subjects and you will probably have various reactions to them. Most people take things repeated over and over again as the gospel and it seems the more it gets repeated the more it gets entrenched into our psyche.
    You may have heard “ Overdraws make the bow more critical!” I tend to disagree and let me explain myself.

    First I must give credit to the person that first brought the topic up in the first place. Many know world renowned professional archer Jesse Broadwater. Arguably one of the best archers the world has ever seen and probably the very best in the world today. He showed up on the scene a few years ago shooting an overdraw and many wanted to know why. Now I personally had been shooting an overdraw for many years for other reasons like being able to cut my arrow shafts shorter to lighten them up and make them stiffer. I had never seen a loss in accuracy so I continued to shoot my setups very successfully with about a 2” overdraw. When Jesse started talking about what he was doing I decided it was time to run my own tests and really try and figure out if indeed an overdraw was more forgiving.

    People were talking about “Torque Tuning” their bows and a friend of mine was convinced that the perfect spot on my particular bow for the rest was ¾” from the throat of the grip. After much testing an analysis, this is what I found and it was not what he had thought. The perfect spot for my rest was right where I had it with a 2” overdraw.

    Problem:Two things happen when we torque the bow, we are moving the sight one way and the arrow the opposite. The reason we get an impact change due to torque is that we are making compensations with the sight when we torque the bow and therefore the arrow is going to hit off line.
    Solution: If we can put the arrow rest in the right position we can find the “sweet spot” where the two actions(moving the sight one way and the arrow the opposite direction) cancel each other out. In laymans terms, this means I can set the rest and sight position to a point that no matter how I torque the bow left or right, as long as the sight is on target the arrow will hit in the middle where I am aiming.

    How is this possible? How do I achieve this?Usually what has to happen in most setups is that the rest has to come back and the sight may have to be moved forward or back to fine tune it. The rest is the primary adjustment because it is close to the nocking point and therefore less of a movement at the rest will make more of a change downrange.
    Here are the steps:
    1. Sight your bow in at 20 yards to start with.
    2. Draw the bow with a arrow, torque the riser to the left (arrow getting closer to the cable), put the pin in the middle and fire the shot.
    3. Draw the bow with another arrow and torque the bow the opposite direction to the right( arrow getting further away from the cable), put the pin in the middle and fire a shot.
    4. If the bow is perfectly torque tuned, all the arrows will hit in a tight group. If not, you will see a lateral spread in the arrows. Typically the arrow you torqued to the left( arrow getting closer to the cable)will impact to the right and the one torqued to the right(arrow getting further away from the cable) will impact to the left.
    5. Make adjustments to the rest, usually you have to bring the rest back incorporating the Hamskea Overdaw in conjuction with your Hamskea Versa Rest. You will be amazed at the difference when you start playing with the rest position.
    6. Once you get the arrow impacting very close at 20 yards no matter what left or right torque you put on the riser, move back to 50 yards or further and repeat the test. You may have to make fine adjustments.
    7. You can also move the sight in or out if that is an available option to you and that will allow some fine tuning also. It has less of an effect than the rest due to its position further away from the nocking point.

    Once you get this done you will be amazed at how much better your bow will shoot. One of the other factors that I ran into in this experiment was that the launcher on the arrow rest needed to provide side support. It is one of the major reasons that the Accu-Glide launcher is designed the way it is to provide side support and correction to the arrow on a torqued shot. I found that while testing a skinny carbon shaft on a wide launcher, that no matter what adjustments I made I could not get the torqued shots to come together. A simple bending up of the side of the launcher to provide side support solved the issue and that setup toque tuned exactly the same as other setups out of the same bow with a different arrow.

    Where this will benefit you most as an archer or bowhunter is when you place your hand in the bow incorrectly or when you are shooting in the wind and making compensations to keep your sight on target as you are being blow around. In general I think it will make your bow shoot much more forgiving and make you a better archer.
    Former and current Back Yard Champion. I beat myself

  3. #23
    Senior Member SixShooter14's Avatar
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    Thanks Sonny,
    And Tim...

    It makes sense in a physics way....

    Its all about where your axis of rotation is in relation to the moment arm of the sight(line of) and rest.....

    Kinda like torquing a long bow(or recurve) if you torque around the arrow, AND that's your sight reference, then it won't matter as long as you still compensate for gravity.....or are instinctive
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  4. #24
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    Revisit.....

    Set up my new Pearson MX2. I went just about went all out. Timed it and set the draw stops. Enter Torque Tuning without the tuning Yep, didn't mess with this or that, just set the rest back as far as I could get. Point of arrow/launch arm contact to deepest of the riser grip measures right at 1.800".

    Okay, still keeping track of people setting their rest back as far as they can. Not really defined in Tim's write up. You're actually moving the rest and sight to get that wanted "sweet spot." Now, people are moving their back and not messing with sight. The thing is, they are seeing improvement in accuracy or at least left and right spread cut down.

    I did the same thing and why I have; "Enter Torque Tuning without the tuning."

    Whoops! So far the average hasn't changed all that much. I had figured right at 2.00" set back for a average. Well, I averaged up again with my 1.800" and got 2.101". Again, differently, from the deepest of the riser grip back the point of contact of the arrow and launch arm.

    Long story cut short; Went brain dead Took 25 mile drive and 2 minutes recharge brain cells.

    I put my MX2 together
    Sure Loc sight frame with 4X lens and .019" fiber optic pin and already set is the 2nd and 3rd axis.
    Super Ball peep - no orifice.
    New 10 degree down quick disconnect is already set.
    A little bite into my pocket was my brand new Stinger stab system. I had tested to get started; 30" front stabilizer with 4 ounces on the end. "V" bar with quick disconnects. Two 12" rear back bars with 3 ounces on each.
    At first, test holding show the bubble centered. Getting to shooting the bubble wants to dip a bit right, but a little fidget and the bubble centers.

    And I guesstimated the sight frame. I got lucky! 15 yards, dead X! Stunned was I. I move back to 20 yards and adjusted the sight. This would be the 2nd and it's high in the bull's eye. 3rd shot is just above the X ring. The 4th and 5th go in the X ring. Ragged target, I put up a new target. 6th shot, see pic - you can see rain drops on arrow. And it wants to rain. Took pic and lightening hit. Scrambled to get all picked up and put away and the sky opens up...Shipping box and tubes for my Stingers, drenched. My new MX2, drenched. Me, drenched. Wife's yells; "It's raining!" Not to worry. I'm fine. She didn't hear me.

    Today, really cool, a bit overcast, but sun trying to break through and it decides to sprinkle/rain and the wind came. Shot any way. The new target, the bull's eye is shot up good. 20, 25 and 30 yards and virtually all in the bull's eye. I'm amazed and I'm also amazed at the minimal lefts and rights. Now, I had the wind catch a few arrows and the corkscrews and tail whippings. Wow!

    So, Torque Tuning, setting the rest back, must help as normally I have a laid over oval and now a upright oval. Forgot to take a picture, but will get one tomorrow...if the rain doesn't mess it up. It was kind of mushy when I quit.
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    Last edited by Sonny Thomas; 10-04-2014 at 09:13 PM.
    Former and current Back Yard Champion. I beat myself

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