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  1. #1
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Hinge work out...

    Me tired. Just got a little serious with one of the new hinge releases I have. Got them a while back and just sort of tinkered and not all that much and then I wasn't really impressed either. I like less, not more movable parts and both have this head thingy that allows for a crosspin that works as a setup/safety tool. Crosspin in place and you can fire it, but it won't release the string. Kinda neat...and still.... Stan did keep the same set up for making fine adjustments. So much easier than the hinge releases that have the half moon. Turn set screw in for faster, out for slower - that simple. Something of a nylock eliminates a lock down screw

    I get asked of back tension and see so many requests of getting started with a hinge. For me, though I have to get back in the swing of things, makes me so much more aware of things. The hinge has me stay on target better. You aim and aim and aim and don't think about triggering the release (there ain't one). Once oriented the pin is there and the shot just plain happens. Back before I sold my 2 Stan Deuce hinges (idiot me) I finally got the nerve to use in in League action, the NFAA 5 spot. And I was still nervous. I fired a 299 with 50 some Xs. I will never (and never is a long time, so...) forgive this PSE Staff shooter for talking me out of them (Semi Pro).

    At first I wanted the 2 finger Onyx (no thumb barrel - Stan calls it the Pulling Post) and then changed my mind and went with the BlackJack with Pulling Post. And I had to move my peep a tad so not to angle my head. So I tried the BlackJack today of all days. Whether; Overcast a bit, which was okay. A chilling breeze didn't help - like my bow was going everywhere and I got the heebie jeebies. So I had to quit. Later, breeze died down and I went at it. Mercy. It's been a while since I used a hinge. So I got it close and gave it a try. And like my back didn't want to work. So more testing to get my back tension going. The first couple of shots were rough getting off. A third was even harder. To the bench and a about a 1/4 turn faster. Mucho better, but still not quite right, but then still struggling with getting my back working correctly.
    Finally got going and did pretty good, but I was one tried puppy after 5 shots. Beings I didn't want to change sight settings I considered these quality shots though off a tad. Rested a bit and chilling wasn't conductive I gave it one more try (been at it for probably a hour in 38 degree weather). I messed up and turned one loose (not really happy with the position of the Pulling Post). Settled down and fired 5 more shots. Back must have been starting to work as the shots went off better.
    See pic below.

    I have a link to get to John Dudley's Articles - have to go through NockOnTV and click on articles - he has quite a few that caught my interest, hunting and target. I also have a detailed account of setting up a hinge release by this individual and it's just about on par with some of the Pros that replied in AT thread...early last year I believe. All Pros do not use back tension as you might think. Some cheat the hinge in one manner or another. I'll stick John's links and hinge write up in the next reply.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Sonny Thomas; 02-14-2013 at 09:32 PM.

  2. #2
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Hinge work out...

    www.nockontv.com

    http://www.nockontv.com/article?down...art-1&start=30

    http://www.nockontv.com/article?down...art-2&start=30



    Hinge shooter; Padgett
    After two years of suffering just like you I finally listened to a local shooter who is pro quality at an ASA shoot in Kentucky and I also listen to Griggs here on archery talk. Too much back tension where you move your elbow by squeezing the rhomboids causes problems and really isn't what most really good shooters are doing and I can tell reading your PM that you are in that category. Shooting a hinge is about perfect hinge setup and then secondly the firing sequence where the firing sequence is not the most important thing. The hinge setup is more important.

    Hinge setup:
    1. set it to the slowest position and then draw your bow with all fingers where they all have the same tension on them including the thumb peg. Down draw and repeat around 5 or so times and do not I repeat, DO NOT TRY TO FIRE THE RELEASE. The whole point here is to feel what it is like to pull the bow with all fingers equally.

    2. Now speed up the release just a little and draw the bow and just let off the thumb pressure, do not do any of the back tension stuff. Just release the thumb pressure and see if the bow fires. If it doesn't down draw and speed up the release just a little and repeat until when you let off the thumb pressure it fires. Fire a few arrows like this to make sure the first one wasn't a fluke and then slow down the release just a little so that it won't fire when you let off the thumb pressure.

    3. Hinge setup is complete for now and over the next month you can fine tune it to the perfect speed where you can draw with all fingers and release thumb pressure and get the perfect release.


    Firing sequence:
    1. come to anchor and apply a constant amount of back tension against the wall and never add or subtract the amount during the shot and just put the pin on the bullís-eye and check the bubble and get your peep lined up with the sight ring. Don't start aiming yet.

    2. Now at the same time you take the pressure off the thumb peg start aiming.

    3. Now just relax your fingers and in the next 3 seconds the bow will fire so just keep relaxing the fingers and basically let your fingers stretch out and during this time maintain the constant back tension and the release will fire.


    This is an awesome firing sequence and it is very repeatable and it doesn't require moving the elbow or squeezing the rhomboids to fire the release, the back tension is just a tool to make sure the shot feels the same each time. The firing of the release is achieved by having the hinge setup correctly so it is close to going off and the relaxation of the fingers takes care of that. Over the first month your job is to let down every time the firing sequence takes longer than 3 seconds for the bow to go off and start over, never force it. If it repeatedly takes longer than 3 seconds then speed up the release just a little and if it releases to quick right after aiming then slow it down a little until you get that perfect speed.

    I shoot more than one release and I shoot smooth moons and clicker moons and right now I am shooting the clicker better, when I come to anchor and take the pressure off the thumb peg my release clicks and then I start aiming and within three seconds my release fires. It is the same thing as I do with the smooth moon.

  3. #3
    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    this month is my 4th month using the hinge release.

    i still got a problem, the arrow will go to poi on the left of target, compare using a trigger release.
    can advice a bit on this problem?.

    i always haf to adjust my sight all the way to the left b4 i can use the hinge release.

    thanks in advance
    2014 Alien Nitro , Sureloc Challenger + Viper Scope, Trophy Ridge Revolution, Easton Carbon One 500, Doinker Elite Supreme, Carter 2 Special.

  4. #4
    Senior Member WildWilt15's Avatar
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    Picked up a buddies hinge release last night at my league and tied my best round ever twice in a row. Definitely picking one up love the idea and how it works. I would never shoot one without a clicker in it, think ill pick up a Scott longhorn.
    Martin x-200 unsure of year
    2011 Mathews z7magnum
    2012 Mathews z7magnum
    2014 Mathews ChillR (on order)

  5. #5
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Hinge work out...

    Quote Originally Posted by WildWilt15 View Post
    Picked up a buddies hinge release last night at my league and tied my best round ever twice in a row. Definitely picking one up love the idea and how it works. I would never shoot one without a clicker in it, think ill pick up a Scott longhorn.
    One thing about hinge releases; They will make you stay on the wall and they will make you adjust length of draw in manner or another. Noted by heads of bow companies and coaches all around is; "Accuracy comes from the wall." In other words, correct overall draw length. No wonder here; Creep off the wall just a tad, try to fire and you bang into the wall and bang, the release fires. My opinion; Real good way to develope the heart breaker, target panic.

    Clickers have pros and cons;
    I've shot beside clicker users at the shop when just them and I are there. So it's kind of quiet. I've tried a couple of click releases and the first thing that rocked me was the click. Yeah, some are just plain loud. Yep, clicked big time, I tensed and things went to pieces. Tried a few more shots and I sort of got use to it.
    Said is a person can get use a clicker where it can be punched.

    I've used a non-clicker Longhorn and liked it, even offered to buy it as my shooter friend no longer target shoots.

    Want a wild ride? Try the Stan Deuce, a 2 finger. It can set so finely that just releasing the Pulling Post and just hanging on will let it fire. Sort of legally cheating the release and something of the Padget write up above.

  6. #6
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Hinge work out...

    And getting use to a hinge release. I had a good time at the shop Friday and just shot darned great with the hinge, but the next day...Mercy. I was a bit sore...using muscles not over used. A good hot shower made things better, but by the time I got the Presley's 2nd Qualifier for their 3D Championship I was feeling it. So tender I opted not to fire any more shots than I had to and by-passed the sight in target. I don't need a "warm up" to see if my bow is up to the task and I saw so many people shooting dozens of shots yesterday.

    I started out with two 12s and a 10. And progressively got in the so-so shooting catagory and some of it was both every other light turned out on the floor and being sore. So both played part on my lack luster score. Still, I was far from the worst.

    Long forgotten, but now remember; Jessie and Ginger Moorehead. Ginger once articled that her husband would have them take a day before a tournament to give their bodies time to be 100%. Sounds like the thing to do now...
    Last edited by Sonny Thomas; 02-17-2013 at 08:26 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member WildWilt15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daiwateampenn View Post
    this month is my 4th month using the hinge release.

    i still got a problem, the arrow will go to poi on the left of target, compare using a trigger release.
    can advice a bit on this problem?.

    i always haf to adjust my sight all the way to the left b4 i can use the hinge release.

    thanks in advance
    It sounds like your pushing your bow hand instead of pulling for true back tension with your shoulders. Try focusing on keeping your bow arm relaxed and still achieving back tension.
    Martin x-200 unsure of year
    2011 Mathews z7magnum
    2012 Mathews z7magnum
    2014 Mathews ChillR (on order)

  8. #8
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Hinge work out...

    Change of point of impact is common when switching releases. You have to make up your mind with what release you want and sight in or have another sight set up. Which this is not rare. Tapered holes and matching screw heads give excellent repeatability when switching. And anchoring with a index release and anchoring with a thumb or hinge release is like night and day, totally different.

    Fit of bow can also be effected. I have several releases and there are differences. Like I noted I had to move my peep up. No big deal as I can get back on target should I move the peep back to where I had it. Length of the release can also effect your shot. I would refer to Barry/bfisher. Some of us can sometimes feel the effect of length by as much as 1/8", but 1/4" can really effect us - length of overall draw, anchoring just so.

    I use a loop on my bow strings, but hinge releases are used also with a rope loop attached to the release. Change the rope loop and the same release may give a different impact point, especially if the new rope is stiffer or limper.

    If you noticed in my initial post I didn't change my sight setting; "Beings I didn't want to change sight settings." Now, I did move my peep so I could use the hinge release. If not my shots would have been quite low with the same amount of right impact. Count the left/right lines - more right than left and most low.

    Hint; Recording your points of impact can help you, whether paper or 3D. Don't record fliers, errors you know you made. What it is, you can establish a average of impacts. Like the targets above; 7 are right and 9 are low. My lefts I believe my fault, so the rights are correct, so the sight needs adjusted. My lows are due to sight needing adjusted. Now, this was just a test hop, but after getting sighted in I would then record more shots to fine tune my sight. Using a movable sight, Sure Loc sight frame, I can adjust 1 click at a time, either side to side or up and down - .002" exactly.
    Last edited by Sonny Thomas; 02-15-2013 at 08:22 AM.

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