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Thread: Can someone explain how moving draw stop messes up cam synchronization

  1. #11
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Can someone explain how moving draw stop messes up cam synchronization

    You have run into one of the things I hate about bow "tricks." My side of the story; I run the shop and at the shop no one discusses "tricks" with my customers in my presence. I'll order them out of the place. Customer wants to go "trick" his bow, fine, but not at the shop. I'm that serious. Running a shop you have a liability responsibility.

    You want the perfect draw length? Then set your bow by the Martin manual, mods to desired draw length (that fits, not by the numbers), cams synced, draw stop set.
    I take it that you are using a loop. This is fine just make loops of 3 or 4 different lengths, 1/4" difference to start. These can be shortened by melting the ends back. Try each loop length until overall draw length is best for you. Do not use a loop so short that it creates crush, squeezes the center serving or creates nock pinch. If a tad bit long, then play with the draw stop - this being advancing the draw stop. Don't move or change anything except the draw stop. Advancing the draw stop does four things, it shortens the bow's (1)draw length, (2)shortens the valley, (3) lessens letoff and (4) has the cables not lay entirely flat in the module groove flats. Your bow is still timed, synced and all, just that the draw stop is changing cam locations. Okay, it's no different than if you have the draw stop set short. Here, the cams will rotate so the modules will push the cables, both at the same time, before the draw stop hits, but the bow is still timed, synced and all.
    Last edited by Sonny Thomas; 03-01-2013 at 09:39 PM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member
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    I know for a fact that you can't trust the number of the mods. My alien nemesis is set up on the 3rd from last spot, which I believe is probably a #5 and should be 29" on the Hybrix 2.0 cam. My draw stop is back just a hair so that the cables lay flat on the mods. It was this way out of box, and this fits me perfect. Low and behold, this is about 29 1/2'' according to my checking, but 30" according to the local shop. I am guessing my bow draws a solid 1/2 - 3/4'' long.

    I guess what I am saying is follow Sonny's orders, and it will work great. Those little "tricks" can definitely hurt more than hinder, especially when you go overboard. I had a guy that supposedly knew bows help me with my 2010 Cheetah, and he had so many twists in my "y" cable to get the top straight that it actually over bent the top limb, and made it shoot all out of whack. Tricks are ok, but used in moderation.
    2012 Rytera Nemesis in vista camo
    equipment list
    • Strings by BOW STRING DEPOT (Formerly hutch n sons archery)
    • octane stabilizer
    • 3/16 meta peep
    • HHA ol5519 sight
    • QAD ultrarest HDX in realtree ap
    • fuse 3 arrow quiver
    • saunders hyperglide cable slide

  3. #13
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    thanks for all the help...i think I have it set right now...basically did what Sonny said, but havent tried different length loops yet...ordered 10 feet of material off ebay last night some later this week I will experiment if I feel it need to be different after shooting league tomorrow night

  4. #14
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    now that everything is set up right, my peep sight is off....is there a way I can twist the string to move the peep without affecting the draw length i just set my taking a twist out of each end?

  5. #15
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Can someone explain how moving draw stop messes up cam synchronization

    You didn't say how far off and if the loop is staying straight back. Loop is always to stay straight back. You can a few things without effecting draw length. First, always twist from the bottom cam. This gives a finer tune of the peep. Next, if way off, better that 90 degrees, switch peep around in the string. Use half twists and check peep for location. Again, keep loop straight back. Fire some where around 5 to 8 shots to settle string and see where peep ends up. I'd go as much and 1 1/2 twist in one direction. If peep isn't behaving remove the 1 1/2 twists and start twists in opposite direction. Stubborn sometimes, loop straight back, hold loop and twist the living daylights out of the peep. The shoot 3 to 5 shots to see if peep behaves. Why twist the peep so aggressively is to get under the serving a bit.

    Again, loop straight back, twist string from bottom cam and adjust in half twists of the bow string.

    Don't be overly perfect. What you want is the peep to be straight when at full draw. If the peep is off a bit with bow relaxed no big deal.
    Last edited by Sonny Thomas; 03-16-2013 at 03:59 PM.

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