A question for Nitro Cam users

[wscywabbit]

Interesting bit of info there, thanks for the testing and the input Archerx7

[themiddleman]

[QUOTE=joelc;101734]Now I dont know...a dealer called today that read this thread and said he noticed approx. 10 fps difference between the cams favoring the larger 2.0 cam. In all of my years here at Martin I have never known the larger cam to be more efficient...both the dealer and I were surprised by his findings.

I am the dealer that called Joel C. I am also Martin PRO and have been for many years. After reading davik post I decided to run a little test because I noticed that the 1.5 cam seemed to be a little slow. I had two Onza XTs on the shelf that were virtually identical with the exception one had the 2.0 and the other had the 1.5 cam. I checked the brace height and the ATA both were identical. I then set both bows draw length at 28 inches and at the exactly the same pounds.This was all done on a draw board and a high-end digital scale. Also, the draw stop was set with the same Valley. These two bows were identical in every way. I then proceeded to shoot across the chronograph. I did 10 shot averages with each bow and to my surprise the 2.0 cam was 10 feet a second faster than the 1.5 cam. I realize my test was done with only two bows and certainly aren't 100% conclusive.

[davik]

I have been trying to convince everyone of this...the bigger cams (Nitro 3cams) are faster than the Nitro 2 cams...NOW here's the big question...IF I change the cams...do I have to change the limbs also? This is on the 2013 Nemesis with split limbs...

[themiddleman]

I have been trying to convince everyone of this...the bigger cams (Nitro 3cams) are faster than the Nitro 2 cams...NOW here's the big question...IF I change the cams...do I have to change the limbs also? This is on the 2013 Nemesis with split limbs...

That is not what I'm saying at all the 2013 Nitro 3 and the 2012 Nitro 2 are virtually the same cams. The Nitro 3 is just a lighter updated version of the Nitro 2. What I am saying is the larger 2.0 cam is faster than the smaller 1.5 cam. this goes against all logic as you would expect the smaller lighter cams to be faster. To answer your second question everything would have to be changed cams, lambs, strings and cable if you wanted to change the cam size and don't want to lose 10 pounds of draw weight

[davik]

I'm sorry...I misspoke (again) I meant that the new Nitro 3 cams come in two sizes 3L and 3S...I assume that means large and small...so the L cams would be faster than the small cams...and then the question...would you have to change everything still?

[themiddleman]

davik if you want to switch from the Nitro 3s [short draw cams] to the Nitro 3L [long draw cams] and you want to keep the bows Max pounds then yes you will have to change the cams, limbs, and the string and cables. That is a big chunk of change and there is no way i would go to all that trouble and expense to gain 8 to 10 ft a second. But if that 8 to 10 feet is something you can't live without I would go another route and sell the bow that you have and purchase a new nemesis 35 with 3L cams.

good luck

[davik]

This is my shooter bow...I didn't buy it, and I'm not sure how Martin would feel if I up and sold this one right now...I'm trying to make lemonade with what I've got. I tried the suggestion on here about the draw stop, and it has gotten my poundage down under 60, so this might work while making me feel safer about shooting the bow...we'll see. The bow sits at 58 pounds and is shooting 283-84fps with my 300 gr arrow...gonna shoot it this weekend to see if the longer drae is going to be a problem or the holding weight is going to be too much...just wish I had all this info earlier...I would have gotten a different bow.

[wscywabbit]

I empathize for your frustration . Unfortunatly hindsite is 20/20. However, there is some good come from this; this thread has been very informative for everyone involved and will benefit other Martin shooters in the long run.

[davik]

I tried the draw stop thing...miserable fail...the draw length is too long when I do this, even with the drawstop pushed towards the minus side, the feel of the bow changes completely and makes it very difficult to hold steady...I guess I'll have to trade out the limbs and such to get what I want...in the meantime, I'll shoot it back on the 27.5" draw peg and have to live with it at 58-59 pounds...

[Sonny Thomas]

Kind of lost reading all. First, I did note that draw length wasn't measured, anywhere. Draw mods setting mean nothing to me as I know they can run long and in some cases shamefully so. And this with all bow brands.
Draw length adjustment to get correct overall draw length; 1) Mods. 2) draw stop. 3) Loop length. 4) Twisting strings and cables.

My Shadowcat; Set to 27 mods. Strings and cables twisted (un) to get my 28 1/4" draw. Loop short. Edit; Forgot. I have draw stop advanced to both lessen draw length and letoff a tad.
My Pearson; 27 1/2 mods and bow string twisted to get 28 1/4". Loop slightly longer than that for the Shadowcat.
Hoyt (sold); set to 28" and dead on. Draw optimum setting (check all) is listed as 29".

I do not know of Martin having a optimum draw setting. If so and maybe even not so perhaps Javi's draw stop procedure could be used. Within his procedure draw length is checked and set before finalization. See AT, Bow tuning forum, Sticky at top.