Sitting to home, one of my days off, relaxing and I get a phone call; "Hey, I'm having problems. Where's the nocking point supposed to be on my Onza3?" Of course I have a come back answer; "Right where it's supposed to be." So he groans and moans And I go through the following and what to do. So about a hour or so later I get another phone call; "It's shooting (install colorful metaphor) great!" Well, that's what he said. Says he owes me a drink. "I'll take a diet Pepsi." Yeah, I'm cheap.....

Hey, guys I've been through this a bunch with Martin bows and the Cat, Hybrix, Nitro or whatever you want to call them. Everything as it should be you should have nearly zero setting for the nocking point.

Limbs maxed out, timing set, bang! Nearly zero or zero nocking setting. If you have the limbs equally backed off you should get the same thing, nearly zero nock setting. Getting really fussy I use 2 R.S. string levels on the bow string, one above and one below the center serving. I use a R.S. Vari-nock arrow level - 1/8" increments. When the bubble nudges the 1/8" mark I start checking things all over again. As long as the bubble is more a tad over zero and less than 1/8" I'll accept it....

All 3 of my Shadowcats were right at 1/16". Virtually every Martin/Ryter bow I set up was just as above. Never have I had a complaint. All Martin/Rytera bows shot indoor target accurate back to 30 yards, even the ones I didn't like. Me don't like short ata bows. I was kinda impressed with a couple, but figured that was my imagination