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Thread: From trigger to hinge release

  1. #1
    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    Default From trigger to hinge release

    bought a hinge release 4 months ago. now im in the the mid of cconverting to hinge release.

    the problem i had now is the arrow grouping is mess up with hinge release and trigger release.

    Am i on the wrong track? or should i proceed with hinge release and forget the trigger release. Or go back to trigger.


    i feel like in middle of no way now.

    advice, suggestions, opinion and past experience please share to sort my problem.

    thanks...
    Bowless..... shopping for one now, Sureloc Challenger + Viper Scope, Trophy Ridge Revolution, GoldTIP + Blazer Vane + Accunocks, Home Made Front Stab 28", and Side Stab 11", Carter 2 Special.

  2. #2
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default From trigger to hinge release

    In no particular order;

    There are problems with switching to hinge some don't understand. First, learning back tension and the proper form to execute it. Basically, proper form, but the reality check of having the release arm in position so the pivot point is well present. Here, the release arm needs position so the release elbow can swing back. Okay, the elbow doesn't swing all that much, a fraction of a inch, but is enough to rotate the hand to fire the release easily. Elbow out and nothing goes right. The release is hard to fire and arrows don't go where you want them.

    Trying to learn the hinge process and having the bow set for a index release sometimes does not go well. By and large something has to change and mostly it's the height of the peep. Sure, the peep might look right, but most people bend and bend you loose form.

    Draw length is also a issue. I believe Barry will say the same. You will find over all draw length vastly more important when using a hinge release.

    Another issue of learning the hinge is it's better to start with a low poundage bow. Once learned you then add draw weight that is suitable to you.

    I have a couple of links and a write up for back tension and setting of to get started...if you wish.

  3. #3
    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    Sonny got it right about me. People hardly ever take the time and effort to adjut their bows for optimum draw length. They don't know how important a 1/4" or 1/8" difference can make or just don't want to take the time to learn. When you pick up a BT release it does become more critical. 1/2" increments just won't cut it any more. You may have to twist cables and/or strings to get down to the last 1/8" that will help you trigger that hinge.

    He also makes a good suggestion about lowering draw weight to learn back tension. I would also say that if possible shooting less letoff can help too. Less peak weight but till adequate holding weight to make you work your back muscles more.

    I'll add that if you are intent on learning a hinge then you must set your mind to it and put away all the trigger releases. BT is something that may take a long time to figure out, maybe months or years, but the results are ofen very satisfying. You can also expect your scores (groups) to be worse for some time, but believe me, it can be rewarding in the long run.

    Larry Wise authored a good book discussing back tension called "Core Archery".
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  4. #4
    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    i made some adjustment twisting the cable.

    incredibly the grouping start picking up.

    i now only shoot ard 46lb. also make the trigger more sensitive.

    where the shot take off much easier and faster without waiting so long.

    just got my new string set from Hutch, Just put on, yet to try out.

    you two are right. such a small adjustment on the draw lenght really majes the day.
    Bowless..... shopping for one now, Sureloc Challenger + Viper Scope, Trophy Ridge Revolution, GoldTIP + Blazer Vane + Accunocks, Home Made Front Stab 28", and Side Stab 11", Carter 2 Special.

  5. #5
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default trigger to hinge release

    If you're doing well, you may find you need to set the hinge colder, harder to go off and this do to you getting use to back tension and the hinge release. Get well acquainted with the hinge before cranking anything. What I mean is, shooting a target out in front of you on flat ground is one thing. Shooting up and down hill is another and so is one being off balance, footing wise, like shooting across a hillside. Things under control then you can add draw weight.

  6. #6
    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    Noted. with thanks....

    i will try give myself say 2 months from now, dont touch the trigger release, and try to get it done right.
    Bowless..... shopping for one now, Sureloc Challenger + Viper Scope, Trophy Ridge Revolution, GoldTIP + Blazer Vane + Accunocks, Home Made Front Stab 28", and Side Stab 11", Carter 2 Special.

  7. #7
    Senior Member WildWilt15's Avatar
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    Picked up a Scott longhorn pro this year absolutely love it for indoor haven't played with it outside yet farthest I've shot was 25 yards and my shooting has improved greatly.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildWilt15 View Post
    Picked up a Scott longhorn pro this year absolutely love it for indoor haven't played with it outside yet farthest I've shot was 25 yards and my shooting has improved greatly.
    great to hear that, at least another proven improvement, so im encouraged now... hahaha...
    Bowless..... shopping for one now, Sureloc Challenger + Viper Scope, Trophy Ridge Revolution, GoldTIP + Blazer Vane + Accunocks, Home Made Front Stab 28", and Side Stab 11", Carter 2 Special.

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