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Thread: Read, any of the CatCams and updates of;

  1. #1
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Read, any of the CatCams and updates of;

    A long time ago I followed the Gary Studt thread for a good while. He seemed to have disappeared a few pages before the end. I forgot it was there and read up. Having worked on Martins from 2008 at the shop with it was a Martin dealership and have worked on and set up a ton of Martins since. Of my last reply not one "Wrap up the Cam" lover challenged my reply. The thread died shortly after....
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...post1062235962

    You go through Gary's thread and it's a joke. Gary admitted draw weight goes up and draw length has to be played with. Speed buttons played into the mix. Some quack in there had lead wrapped around his bow string to up speed and cushion buttons on each end of the lead wrap to hold it in place. Now that's real smart, isn't it?
    Look through the thread. One said he gained speed with less draw weight after his "Studt" attempt. The only thing is he came back and noted he lengthened the draw. DUH? Any of you need to be a rocket scientists to figure this out?
    How many speed buttons? 3 here, 2 there. "Look at placement of speed buttons" was given, no measurement though.

    No real notations came as it seemed everyone was doing something a little different. And again, almost no one was quoting measured ata, measured draw length and whatever else.

    Amazingly, all these "Wrap up successes" were coming instantly. And then I've spend a couple days and more working out a draw length issue, test, measure, test, confirm, recheck and had others step in a verify what I had done.

    Advancing the top cam a tad is no big secret. I've been doing this for years, starting with my 2004 UltraTec. And not all dual cams likes this. Martins just happen to like it, but depends on the bow and the shooter. Seems most can't figure out why they have the nock position they have in order to get their bow paper tuned. More than likely the bow isn't timed correctly. I've been through this a bunch. Virtually every time the bow is out of time. Draw boards don't draw like humans. Draw boards don't have human hands. Timing set correctly one should have near zero string nock setting. Set correctly you'll have that supposedly magic bullet hole from up close to as far back as you can shoot.

    Properly timed and center shot great arrow flight can be had with numerous weights of FOC of the same arrow and never move a thing except for your sights and most generally only for height. I did a step by step test of this a while back using my Martin Shadowcat. Accuracy was dead X for 10 yards back to 30 yards. Indoors I couldn't test farther back. Arrow used was the HT3 starting with a 80 gr glue-in and ending with a 47 grs insert and weighed 144 gr. field point for a total of 111 grs difference. No less than fifteen shots per FOC weight change; 1) 80 gr glue-in. 2) 47 gr insert with 85 gr field point. 3) 47 gr insert and 100 gr field point. 4) 47 grs insert with 125 gr field point. And the last, 47 gr insert with the 144 gr field point. Time; more than a couple of days. Taking breaks and coming back to see if things repeated. Re-weighing, check FOC for correctness. Switching out arrows and sighting and sight in again just to test if I was in error. I wasn't. I had a former Martin Staff shooter test what I had. In the end he wanted to use my bow in a upcoming Indoor tournament. Would have if not for the passing of a relative.

    Of Studt's thread, virtually no specs were set forth for twisting and whatever. No measurements given in many cases. Time again draw weight was noted higher. Yep, twist up the cables and you'll get that. Draw length long mentioned more than a couple of time.

    Twist up the cables and draw length increases. Not a problem if the mods adjust to give the draw length to fit you. If not it's back to square one.

    9 pages and not once did I see Martin acknowledge this all great procedure. And of all things there are people proclaiming this procedure who have acknowledged here and on sites that they have problems tuning their Martin bow. Something is wrong here. I mean, Martin has one of the finest, if not the finest bow manual going.... My Hoyt manual doesn't even rate second place to Martin's.

    Now, I'm trying to help a Martin shooter and this dang "wrap up the cam" is in his brain. Keeps it up and I'll drop him.

    Now, I am not some super shooter. But on the local club level I've had more than my fair share of good results. My two Martin Shadowcats, 2010 and 2011, have taken right at 8 highoveralls in club 3Ds and some 20 3rd place or better finished in Club and ASA state sanctioned events, 3rd place twice in ASA State Championships. Taken one high overall in the onlly 2011 Illinois ASA Indoor DAIR event held in 2011. Won the only long distance Novelty shoot I entered, 52 yards and 2" clay disc, hits twice of the 3 shots allowed, just missed it low and in fact the disc slipped and held to my arrow. My 2010 Shadowcats was damned accurate and still would be if not for a busted limb and couldn't be brought to specs with new limbs. My 2011 Shadowcat is the same damned accurate and both had/have speed and no fun business to get it done.

    There, done ranting.....
    Last edited by Sonny Thomas; 03-18-2013 at 05:38 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    LOL Sonny, I remember that thread! You're right there was some confusing info in there and some wrong roads taken. I took that thread, (with a pinch of salt), Nuts and Bolts pdf, and the Martin manual to find out for myself what seemed to work for me. And wrapping the cams was so not part of it! But to each their own! You need to make sure the guy you're trying to help out realizes there's a "give and take" with making changes to cables and shooting string, and that after any changes he needs to check specs again... Beat it into him if you have to lol
    In God and guns we trust;
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    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
    2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps

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