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Thread: Got coffee? Bored, raining out? Read ramblings....

  1. #11
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    Thanks again for the welcome and the replies, folks.

    Yeah, may have to learn a new anchor; or not. We'll see how it shakes out.

    elkslayer4x5, if I'd installed the inserts, I'd not admit it! lol.. No biggie, things happen... I'll figure out what best to use and how, and do my own from now on. Recovered one and have the others stored in my target. lol

    bfisher, thanks again for getting me in the forum. Actually, I'm six foot twelve and a half inches tall... {:>) ACTUALLY used to be just short of six four. Miracle of Miracles!! Forty years later I'm now six one. But, using the finger tip to tip starting measurement, my wingspan is still just a tad shy of 80 inches. (insert gorilla joke here) Adjusted to and always shot around a 31 inch draw; saves on the forearm, avoids light coats without strapping them out of the way, ect. ect. I shouldn't be long getting back on the standard peg; gain a half inch to an inch of draw should work out just right. Now, you see, with the minus ten peg maxed out length of pull wise, anything short of the stop being to the maximum plus (+) setting and there is NO valley. And, yes, I had thought I should go with a longer ATA bow, but then it wouldn't have been a Martin, and you folks sold me on getting a Martin! Plus, this Cougar is as much a training devise that won't bore me to death as it is a bow, for now; it's fun for both.
    The ICS 340s, I know, will be the correct spine as I bring the draw weight up over time, why I chose them. I had a few 2219s left from years ago, but feared they might shoot plumb through the ton straw bales I have as a backstop and kill a horse or something on the other side.

    o

  2. #12
    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    hey, just an FYI, with your GORILLA sized draw length (couldn't resist ) you need to make sure that at full draw you aren't going past the module and pulling the cable into the axle of the cam. If you do it will shorten the life of the serving there, so its best to just be sure!
    In God and guns we trust;
    • One nation, under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all.
    • A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.


    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
    2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps

  3. #13
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    wscywabbit, were it not so ! lol I checked that and the mod looks fine, I'll keep an eye on the serving for a while.

    btw, I pulled the rest the inserts out with a pair of needle nose pliers. For the life of me, I can't see any glue of any kind; wouldn't you think there would be some little residue, some left in the little notches? Feels clean to me. Also I THINK I see black residue from cutting the arrows on the little red rubbery thingies. Oh, well.

    Beings I wanna try and post a pic anyway, hehehe, I'm going to try and show what I mean re the inserts, and then a pic of three 'trick' items that 'newbie' me thinks are nice; Bowmaster, just because they've always been great. D loop pliers, because once I tied my first ever D loop with them, I had NO doubt, as hard as they pulled, that the knot would hold. Never a worry to you who are used to them, I reckon, but your first one, one might worry about holding. And, TRU Ball 'draw check tool' I believe they call it. It's perhaps worth having just for checking sights or whatever without any fear of dry firing. For me, it's even more useful. I pull my bow many times over sitting in my home office than actually shooting arrows, trying to build back a little strength. DSCN0043.jpgDSCN0042.jpg
    Last edited by otisT; 04-18-2013 at 10:59 PM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    yep, I don't see a drop of glue on those lol. It would definitely explain why they came out so easy! Nice thing is, its an easy fix
    In God and guns we trust;
    • One nation, under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all.
    • A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.


    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
    2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps

  5. #15
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Got coffee? Bored, raining out? Read ramblings....

    Quote Originally Posted by otisT View Post
    Thanks for the welcome, guys.
    Sonny; I thought I warned you! "Got coffee? Bored, raining out? Read ramblings...."
    Otis, I was being for real. Though I am quite bashful, shy and laid back I've been known to go on writing sprees of length.

  6. #16
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    Sonny;
    LOL my title was 'semi serious' as I knew I rambled but kinda thought, may as well cover everything at once. And, in the month or so I've been hangin' around, I've read some of your lengthy posts... The major difference I see in yours and mine is that yours generally say something! lol Lots of helpful information and advise, which I think everyone appreciates. I know I do. Wish I had more to offer these good folks, but I fear I'll simply be an ol' guy hobbyist, never again to be too serious nor too good at it. But, I'll still enjoy it. You'll have to cover for my lack of knowledge! lol

    Now, the inserts; I took a little Dremel bit that would fit and BARELY - BY HAND - roughed them up inside for an inch or so, cleaned inside the arrows and the inserts with acetone then put 'em together with something called 'Insert Iron', 'wait a couple, three days'; should work 'eh?

    Remember now, back when I was last bow hunting; carbon arrows were poison, releases where rare, round wheels and fifty percent let off were the norm, and a 'D loop' was assumed to have something to do with a busty lady's bra. So, it's all new to me! And I thank you and the others for the help, and the good humor.

    o
    Last edited by otisT; 04-18-2013 at 10:54 PM.

  7. #17
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Got coffee? Bored, raining out? Read ramblings....

    OMG! Iron Insert! I got some of that to use for and give a review. I'd rather use tar. I forget the drying time, but outrageous.

    Any of the quick set glues would be far better. Fast Set, the original Super Glue (is like gooey, not the runny stuff), Bohning Quantum XT, and Pine Ridge are some to consider.

    Inside scuffing of the shaft usually isn't necessary. Lots of people use acetone, but I much perfer denatured alcohol. If and when such inside roughing is required I use a copper rifle bore brush - by hand.

    Hey! Old ways of doing things still take place and refreshers of these is welcome.

    Yes, years back people thought carbon would do something to the meat and wouldn't eat game animals shot with them. Of course, real dumb, but presisted for a time.

    Yes, releases were rare. Never saw one until 1999! Now I have some of the releases with no triggers and no pulling posts. Know what you're doing and they are pretty safe... Do remember my first time with a hinge. Found myself on my knees and wondering how I got there.

    Letoff. Lord! My first compound bow was a Pearson and to draw and hold was like hanging on for dear life!

    D-loop and bra size? A bit of wishful thinking?

  8. #18
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    I jumped on the compound band wagon fairly early in their development. 1974 to be exact. Wooden riser, wood/glass laminated limbs, plastic dual track wheels, steel cables, and a whopping 20% letoff. I remember buying a Pearson ProStaff 4000 in 1979 which peaked at 61# and left me holding 38#. Wore me out on a field course. Speeds approaching 200 fps and it was heaven. Been shooting a release since 2005 ( many different ones and types). BT is still the best once you learn how to use one.

    Real carbon arrows didn't hit the scene till the late 80's or early 90's and these were pultruded shafts, meaning all the fibers ran one way, length wise. It was these that were not recommended by Easton for hunting use. They were very strong but if they did break they splintered length wise and with some 30 million fibers making up a shaft some could break off and get into the meat. Not good for the intestines. Of course Beman was the arrow of choice and the warning about splintering was advertised by Easton who didn't have a carbon arrow yet. Then Easton came out with theirs and all was good. Some years down the road Easton bought Beman and that's where we're at today. Shafts aren't pultruded any more and when they break there is not splintering to speak of so that fear is gone.

    I don't know what those red things are at the back of the inserts. Never seen them before. No sense hashing over this issue. You have enough info and should settle this problem well enough.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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  9. #19
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default Got coffee? Bored, raining out? Read ramblings....

    Barry, that's them new fangled inserts, like Beman Vibrake inserts, vibration dampening system.
    Sims technology thingies. Best thing since sliced bread. Fantasic. Can't shoot good without them.

    Mmmm? Somebody give them a test hop and I might read the review. Not buy, just might read the review

  10. #20
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonny Thomas View Post
    Barry, that's them new fangled inserts, like Beman Vibrake inserts, vibration dampening system.
    Sims technology thingies. Best thing since sliced bread. Fantasic. Can't shoot good without them.

    Mmmm? Somebody give them a test hop and I might read the review. Not buy, just might read the review
    Best thing since sliced bread? Yeah, right. Anybody who would believe this hasn't been around arrows very long.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
    Martin Gold Plus Staff Shooter
    Alien Mafia
    PSAA Life member, UBP Life member
    PADI AOW Diver

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