I like 1 piece wood recurves, grew up shooting them. Starting to shoot my Martin recurves after a year of (re)learning form on a vintage(1968, same year I was born) Bear Tartar, 28# @ 28"; this bow is in great shape and was pefect to learn on. Next bow I wanted to use is a 2009/10 Martin X-200, 40# @ 28", I had started trying to tune this bow last summer but stopped because every arrow was showing weak and I wanted to make sure it wasn't me; kept shooting the light bow. I added a fastflight string for a little more speed and low stretch; shooting off the shelf with a calf hair rest, split fingers with a tab.

Hadn't shot much the last couple months because I had been shooting my compound to get ready for a turkey trip, but when I shot the light bow really well I decided to try the 40#er. Tried the different aluminums I had and they shot OK but the are shaftes were still weak, even the 1916s(.600 spine) that were "supposed" to be right. I wanted to use carbons anyway and had some CX Heritage 150s(.500), full length they were weak with a 100 grain tip; started cutting them down and they improved. Still had some fishtailing and did some research, nock point was probably too low, raised it to 3/4" and things really improved. Decided to stop at 30", 2 1/2" cut off; I was getting the bare shaft to fly straight, still weak at times; still can cut up to an 1" more off. Fletched up some shafts with 5" shield cut feathers; arrows weigh in at about 430 grains, should be enough to kill a turkey. Next bow to set up will be a 45# Martin Hunter.

First group at 10 yds, really like how this shoots right where I point it: