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Thread: Z cams ... again

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    Senior Member macflash's Avatar
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    Default Z cams ... again

    Hey guys,
    I was really lookin close at my cams the other day,( dual Z) on the firecat and noticed on is rotated ( at rest not drawn) a little more than the other, and finding someone to measure them while draw is out for a bit, should they or should they not be in the same position? and could it be to limb bolts not equally turned out? ( could have sworn I did) one is rotated an 1/8 to 3/16 farther than the other, and it may be why I'm havin trouble settling in at 35 yards. though I believe a bunch of it is arrow tuning but wanna get the bow set true before I go farther, maybe crank the bolts in all the way first to check?
    Mac
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    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    With most of the older cams I have found that they should be pretty close at rest. Instead of pulling your hair out why not just star from scratch. Bottom the limb bolts and back them out evenly till you get the draw weight you want. Then check cable length off the bow, making them both the same. It's recommended to do this while stretching them under 100 pounds of pressure. Then reinstall them and check cam orientation. Tweak as necessary. This is best done using a draw board, but if you don't have one you can get pretty close just by drawing the bow and "feeling" the cam hit the valley at the same time. Again, tweak as necessary.

    Then start with initial setup of the rest position and nocking point. Now start your tuning process.
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    Senior Member macflash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    With most of the older cams I have found that they should be pretty close at rest. Instead of pulling your hair out why not just star from scratch. Bottom the limb bolts and back them out evenly till you get the draw weight you want. Then check cable length off the bow, making them both the same. It's recommended to do this while stretching them under 100 pounds of pressure. Then reinstall them and check cam orientation. Tweak as necessary. This is best done using a draw board, but if you don't have one you can get pretty close just by drawing the bow and "feeling" the cam hit the valley at the same time. Again, tweak as necessary.

    Then start with initial setup of the rest position and nocking point. Now start your tuning process.
    rassle crackin frackin, LOL doggonitt, I just got Hutchs' string stretched in too !!.
    thanks Barry, wanted to try a 3-d shoot next month now with the schedule my wife has for me not sure I'll make that now ... grumble grumble.
    hopin it's not the cables and no i don't have a draw board .... yet .. well like everyone said before with the noises, one thing at a time
    thanks again B.
    Mac
    A veteran is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to
    The United States of America ' for an amount of 'up to and including my life
    .

    '96 Firecat, '66 Herters

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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    With most of the older cams I have found that they should be pretty close at rest. Instead of pulling your hair out why not just star from scratch. Bottom the limb bolts and back them out evenly till you get the draw weight you want. Then check cable length off the bow, making them both the same. It's recommended to do this while stretching them under 100 pounds of pressure. Then reinstall them and check cam orientation. Tweak as necessary. This is best done using a draw board, but if you don't have one you can get pretty close just by drawing the bow and "feeling" the cam hit the valley at the same time. Again, tweak as necessary.

    Then start with initial setup of the rest position and nocking point. Now start your tuning process.
    Barry - I think this is an older steel cabled bow.
    Flash - with the steel cables and micro adjust rigging, you use the set screws in the 'Y' harness to adjust the cam's sync.

  5. #5
    String builder/ Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spiker View Post
    Barry - I think this is an older steel cabled bow.
    Flash - with the steel cables and micro adjust rigging, you use the set screws in the 'Y' harness to adjust the cam's sync.
    Yep Spiker's right! Right in the center of the triangle there is a set screw




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    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spiker View Post
    Barry - I think this is an older steel cabled bow.
    Flash - with the steel cables and micro adjust rigging, you use the set screws in the 'Y' harness to adjust the cam's sync.
    Didn't realize it was steel cables. In that case, with the adjusting screw the job becomes even easier.
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    Senior Member macflash's Avatar
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    Ooops yeah sorry Barry,
    It's a 96 firecat, and is set up just as stated with the steel cables.
    SO !! I turned them all the way in (limbs) and yes they are still off a little from each other. One "appears" to drop into the valley just a micro before the other. I turned in the screw on the corresponding cable and it DID NOT seem to move it very much . The one cam I'm trying to match has 4 ... 5 threads of the allen screw showing and the other is flush with the "Y" .... thinkin this doesn't seem correct. if I loosen the one to roll the "tight" cam out it will make more threads and I'm almost outta room on the "loose" cam. GRRRRR..
    A veteran is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to
    The United States of America ' for an amount of 'up to and including my life
    .

    '96 Firecat, '66 Herters

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    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    Look, I've been guilty of this (often), but are you sure your going the right way? LOL.
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