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Thread: I sleep with one eye open

  1. #1
    Senior Member TEN RING's Avatar
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    Default I sleep with one eye open

    Not really, so a few long years ago I got target panic try a lot of thing back tenion release work till I learned how to punch it, it went away then it came back I have read just about everything there is on target panic, the last one I read asked do you shoot with one eye open (yes) it goes on to say try shooting with both eyes open (ok) wow it works but I could only squit my left eye (right handed for all you wrong handed shooter) I ended up slowly going back to one eye open Well it popped it's ulgy head while try to get comfortable shoot my bowtech I stop shooting it and want back to only shooting my onza this time I force my self to have both eye open and I must say this time I'm going to continue shooting with both eyes open
    MARTIN BENGAL
    THE NEED FOR SPEED
    WALMART PRO STAFF SHOOTER

  2. #2
    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Love shooting with both open!! Keep it up with the both open!!!





    Hutch
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  3. #3
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default I sleep with one eye open

    Well, the old saying is; "God gave you two eyes, use them." I learned this when Trap shooting. Took a bit, but within a couple of weeks I winning my fair and more of Annie Oakleys and Merchandise shoots. Won my first High Overall Doubles trophy that same year (10 best of 12 shoots).

    Left eye dominent, left handed and I shoot right handed. Starve to death if I lost my left hand and a bow will not fit my right hand.

    And we got into a discussion the other day about target panic. There are different forms. One form is not knowing what's going on in the trigger department. Oh yes, the trigger. This means the index finger and thumb releases and the hinge.

    My opinion and being considered and they are saying, yes, it could very well be;
    For the index finger and thumb, don't touch the trigger until on target and aiming. And when aiming most are pulling into the wall. Pulling into the wall you already have back tension engaged and people don't realize this. Basically, just aim, aim and aim. While aiming pull into the wall and place thumb or index finger on the trigger and do nothing else, but and pull into the wall and wait until the release fires. May not have typed this to clearly get the picture, but maybe the general idea will take hold.

    Same with the hinge. Something keeps the bow to the wall and it's the person holding the bow - back tension engage. So here's this person holding into the wall, trying to relax their release hand and trying to exert more back tension to fire the release. Some having the hinge set too hot get instant and unwanted firing. Some set the release too cold and apply back tension until they are wore out and falling apart and if the release does fire it's headed on a mission of uncertainy.

    What to do? Set the release so it goes off while holding into wall in a time frame of 7 to 10 seconds. As you and your body learns you may need to set the release again, usually colder.

    Okay, let's not forget proper form and release elbow where it's suppose to be. Let that elbow out and you're losing the natural pivot point required of shooting a hinge. When the release arm is proper position the elbow will go rotate back of you, not back as in straight back from the bow. Elbow out past the center line it's hard for back tension to come over the mid point of the pivot point.
    Only example I can think of; Take a screen door with a spring. Open the door so the spring is straight and release the door. The door will slam shut. Open the door so the spring has to bend around the door jam and release the door. There is a hesitation before the door begins to move and then it slams shut. The hesitation for us is trying to force the elbow back to the mid point of the pivot point, but are human and when forcing back tension other parts of us aren't cooperating. So elbow out, the hinge is hard to fire, usually the elbow is pulling out of position (usually down) and if the release does somehow fire you have a bad shot...if you can get the release to fire that is.

    I don't know here... Mimic full draw position, but with the release elbow out from you. Engage back tension. The elbow may not move or maybe just come up a bit. Try the same thing again, but with the elbow as it should be, in line with the power stroke of the bow string/arrow. You should be able to feel the elbow in the motion of swinging behind you.

    I have the above procedure, but this stupid older Dell computer is set up with the wrong word processing and will not translate. I have asked for the procedure to be sent again. It least this dumb Dell will copying and save what it does see. I will pass on as soon as I get it.

  4. #4
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default I sleep with one eye open

    Here's the procedure I noted above. Now, it's a procedure and reading enough articles and procedure of the hinge release one just might hit on one that works or gives a more clear understanding.

    Hinge setup:

    1. Set it to the slowest position and then draw your bow with all fingers where they all have the same tension on them including the thumb peg. Down draw and repeat around 5 or so times and do not I repeat, DO NOT TRY TO FIRE THE RELEASE. The whole point here is to feel what it is like to pull the bow with all fingers equally.

    2. Now speed up the release just a little and draw the bow and just let off the thumb pressure, do not do any of the back tension stuff. Just release the thumb pressure and see if the bow fires. If it doesn't down draw and speed up the release just a little and repeat until when you let off the thumb pressure it fires. Fire a few arrows like this to make sure the first one wasn't a fluke and then slow down the release just a little so that it won't fire when you let off the thumb pressure.

    3. Hinge setup is complete for now and over the next month you can fine-tune it to the perfect speed where you can draw with all fingers and release thumb pressure and get the perfect release.


    Firing sequence:

    1. Come to anchor and apply a constant amount of back tension against the wall and never add or subtract the amount during the shot and just put the pin on the bullís-eye and check the bubble and get your peep lined up with the sight ring. Don't start aiming yet.

    2. Now at the same time you take the pressure off the thumb peg start aiming.

    3. Now just relax your fingers and in the next 3 seconds the bow will fire so just keep relaxing the fingers and basically let your fingers stretch out and during this time maintain the constant back tension and the release will fire.


    This is an awesome firing sequence and it is very repeatable and it doesn't require moving the elbow or squeezing the rhomboids to fire the release, the back tension is just a tool to make sure the shot feels the same each time. The firing of the release is achieved by having the hinge setup correctly so it is close to going off and the relaxation of the fingers takes care of that. Over the first month your job is to let down every time the firing sequence takes longer than 3 seconds for the bow to go off and start over, never force it. If it repeatedly takes longer than 3 seconds then speed up the release just a little and if it releases to quick right after aiming then slow it down a little until you get that perfect speed.

    I shoot more than one release and I shoot smooth moons and clicker moons and right now I am shooting the clicker better, when I come to anchor and take the pressure off the thumb peg my release clicks and then I start aiming and within three seconds my release fires. It is the same thing as I do with the smooth moon.

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