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Thread: Martin Jaguar Advice...

  1. #1
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    Red face Martin Jaguar Advice...

    Hi all,

    I have just taken up archery in the UK.

    I have been looking at bows for a long time and decided that the Martin Jaguar will be a great bow for me to start on. However it is not sold over here so I will need to import it. This is an obvious risk as I will never have held it or got a feel for it so I just have a few questions.

    First off I have a 30" draw. So has anyone measured the draw weight at 30" on the 30# and 35# limbs?

    Secondly I understand the arrow rest is that it comes with is not the best. I was looking at a flipper rest. Is there any that people would recommend? I want a fairly decent one as don't plan on having to change it all the time from it getting too well used.

    Many thanks in advance.

    P-Dizz

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    As long as you are going to be importing things you may as well order the rest, too. Try www.lancasterarchery.com. I'm going to suggest a couple of rests that would last a very long time. One is the AAE Freeflyte, which I use. Another would be the Cartel Star Hunter. The Star Hunter is a little harder to set up but once set and locked down it's pretty much bullet proof. Another decent option would be a flipper style (Spigarelli Zero Tolerance or Cartel CR-301) combined with a plunger. With any of these I doubt that you'd ever shoot enough to wear them out.

    As for the weight of the limbs? Without yanking on mine I would say that similar to most recurves you'd gain about 2# per extra inch of draw over 28", so 30# limbs should yield about 34# at 30". 35# limbs should yield about 39#.
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    I have a martin diablo td 35#. I like it a lot you can read my other posts on it. I upgraded the rest on the advice of a guy that shoots recurve professionally, he said, to a NAP Flipper Center Rest flipper. Been shooting it for almost a year, almost everyday and it shows very little wear. I smoothed and rounded out the limbs where the string bends on it. Seems to have helped with string wear. Again, I have posted on here.

    Now the problem I have had is tuning. I am on my third set of arrows. The shop recommended originals were way to stiff. Said they used two computer based programs and both programs said the same.
    500 spine 4inch fletching. These arrows were shooting 6 inches to the right of the unfleched arrows with 100grain tips.

    They measured me at length but after a couple of months I was measured again at 28". They recommended a set of 600 spine Victory v6 Vforce arrows 600 spine. With 150 grain tips these arrows shoot 2 inches to the right of unfletched.
    Now I have Carbon Express preditors 700 spine. They are narrower than the previous sets. With 75,or 85 grain tips they are about 2 inches to the right of unfletched. With 100 grain they are about 4 to 5 inches to the left of unfletched.
    I average shots cause my grouping at 20 yards are about 6 inches.
    I am sort of at a loss on this tuning stuff. I like shooting the bow everyday anyway. And although progress is not a consistent straight line it always gets better. I am 68 yrs old and 35# is great for me and I don't think I will go with heavier limbs.

    It would be nice to be able to go into a shop and have them help you try different arrows and tips to get the correct ones. Also when I started I used a sight so that I could get tighter groupings. Now I do just shooting instinctive and do about the same as I do with a sight.

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    Senior Member NuttyNative's Avatar
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    At 35 pounds I would try a 350 or 400 spine. I have a 70's Root recurve at 40 pounds and shoot 4" feathered 340 Gold Tips and they are right on.
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    Thanks. There has been some great advice so far.

    Couple more questions now though.

    Just been reading and it says the 2014 model can be set up as 60", 62", 64". Does that mean it's adjustable or do you specify the length when you buy the bow?

    As for the weight that leaves me on the fence. I have been shooting a 35# club bow and sometimes a 38# other members bow. I didn't really notice much difference in the draw weight. With stacking in mind would I be better with the 35# which could potentially be weighing in at 39# on my draw length or play safe and go with 30# which may weigh in at 34#?

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    I saw that note on the AMO on line catalog too. The same note is there for all three TDs of different length risers. I think it is refering to the 3 choices available in TD. They seemed to have renamed the Diablo TD to Panther on the front page, and left it Diablo to order. I believe all three use the same limbs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevtech View Post
    I saw that note on the AMO on line catalog too. The same note is there for all three TDs of different length risers. I think it is refering to the 3 choices available in TD. They seemed to have renamed the Diablo TD to Panther on the front page, and left it Diablo to order. I believe all three use the same limbs.
    So the 60 inch one is the jaguar and the other lengths are other bows?

    With a 30" draw on a 60" bow can I expect finger squeeze then? Shame as not keen on look of sabre or Diablo / panther risers but they would be more suitable bow lengths.
    Last edited by P-Dizzle; 01-25-2014 at 08:53 AM.

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    At 30 inches of draw on a 60" bow, you will get some finger pinch if you are shooting one over/two under. Not a lot but some, have you tried shooting 3 under? I have a old Ben Pearson 'Cougar', a 62" bow ( 45@28) and I draw it to 31", the old catalogs recomend the Cougar for those drawing up to 30". I do get a small amount of finger pinch, very minimal, but noticable, I get no finger pinch ahooting three under.
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    With that in mind would I be better with the 62" Diablo? I really don't like the look of the sabre but could get used to Diablo. Would I feel pinch on that at 30"?

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    I wouldn't take a chance. For 30" draw I would go with the longer bow every time. Pound for pound it would be a little bit faster, too. More cast and less stacking.
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