Martin Firecat Cam Settings
I am seriously considering purchasing this bow but i am concerned about the correct settings for the cams. I would think that there is one and only one correct setting for maximum performance and I would hope that this was thoroughly worked out by the factory and I would hope that this information would be supplied at the time of purchase and be included in the owner's manual.
Is this the case?
Why are there so many people messing with these cam settings over on Archery Talk?
I am not interested in voodoo or black magic .
I want to be supplied with accurate information regarding precise cam settings and do not want to experiment.
PLease convince me that my fears are unfounded.
Thanks in advance.
Frank S. (real person)
Frank welcome to the forum. I have a Firecat and all I have done is time the cams like I have done to any Dual cam bow. Yes it may be a pain in the rear , but remember this is a 1st yr Cam System and not all the Info is Avaliable. I love my FireCat and IMHO it is the BEST Martin I have ever owned and would recomend it to anyone!
Just got my FireCat from the factyory two days ago. I think the info you are asking about is in the manual. Cam sync and such for all their cam systems are right there. Fortunately mine cam out of the box perfectly in tune. I just had to change the draw length module. The cams are in sync as is.
If you have to change anything it's the same process as any two cam bow and explained in the manual.
Does this help?
Crackers on .. Archerytalk has tweaked the Cat Cam's ... search archery talk for more info.
So dumb question here. I just bought a Firecat a few month ago. How do you know if the cams are aligned or not or need to be adjusted. I bought my bow at an Archery shop and the guy that set me up with it is a Martin Archery guru.
If the cams are not in sync properly you'll be able to feel it at full draw. The cams roll over and drop into the valley. If the cams are in sync then you'll hit the stop and that's it. If they are not you'll most likely feel like a double bump, double valley so to speak as you pull just a little harder. And to feel this right you have to get the draw stop out of the way first.
If one cam rolls into the valley before the other then you add a twist(s) to th cable attached to that cam until you get it right. It's not hard, Just tedious sometimes. When you have them close you may only need 1/2 twist.
It's trial and error, and to save time I recommend a bow press.
Buty what type of bow press..These new bow's are awful touchy... I am going to use my BowMaster.... Or screw the limb bolts out...Improper press procedure's are a real problem nowdays. Drop
Originally Posted by bfisher
Oh, I quite agree with you. Some people know how to press a bow and some don't. When I worked at a Gander Mountain I found some of this out. A couple times a customer would hand me a bow that needed something done. I put it in the press and as soon as I applied pressure I noticed the riser start to twist to one side. Well, that's exactly when I stopped, took it out, and dug my own personal Bowmaster out. I'm not bending or breaking a riser (mine or anybody else's) to prove anything.
Originally Posted by 12ptDropTine
I also found that the Bowmaster with split limb adapters wouldn't work on all Hoyt bows. Sometimes the cams were too big. Now, what is plan "C"?
This is just one of the many reasons I've done 100% of my maintenance for 35 years now. If I screw it up it's my fault. Besides, how else is a person supposed to learn anything.
tweak the cams according to nuts and bolts and crackers, trust me it works, i have tweaked 3 firecats including my own, it really help the draw cycle more than anything.