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Thread: Altering draw length using modules

  1. #1
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    Default Altering draw length using modules

    Hi everyone,

    I have a query that is not well explained in the bow manual I have about altering the draw length by installing a different module.

    The bow in question is a Moab Pro Hunter with the M2 single cam setup. Specific details are as follows: Weight: 55-70#, Draw: MP, Bow: 0929755, Let off: 80%, Split 34.5

    This is what the manual says:

    Adjusting The Single Cam Draw Length
    Using draw length modules, the draw length can be adjusted in 1" increments. To change
    the draw length, replace the module on the cam by removing the screws that hold it to the
    cam. NOTE: do not draw your bow without the module installed. It will damage your
    harness.
    The module sizes range from F-1 to F-7. As the module numbers get higher, the draw gets longer.
    The draw length can also be adjusted in 1/2" increments using the pegs on the back of the cam.
    This method of draw adjustment applies to ALL Martin Single Cam System (Acu-Trak,
    Fuzion, Dyna, M-Pro, and M2).

    My questions are. Am I able to do this module change without a bow press and leaving the bow pre tensioned ie: will the module just drop out once it is unscrewed? Another query I have is that one of the screws holding the module in place will not unscrew far enough before it snags the inside edge of the limb. All ideas appreciated.

    Many thanks Dark
    Last edited by darkember; 05-04-2014 at 01:25 PM.
    Testing testing

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    Update to the above post. Ok I have figured out that I needed to loosen off the limbs so that I could hand turn the M2 cam cam just enough to then be able to wedge it behind the limb thus exposing both module screws. Fitted the new module and lubed the entire cam workings with tri flow. Now I have noticed that I get an audible click just as the bow settles into the let off weight. It must be the new module as there was no click prior to it been fitted. Any ideas please
    Last edited by darkember; 05-04-2014 at 02:31 PM.
    Testing testing

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    Ok, I think I realize what I have done. Since I have moved from module F2 to module F1 to reduce my draw length I forgot to move the draw stop as well. Having moved the draw stop the click has now stopped. result:-)
    Testing testing

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    So then, you've answered your own questions, correct?
    Former and current Back Yard Champion. I beat myself

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonny Thomas View Post
    So then, you've answered your own questions, correct?
    I believe so thanks
    Testing testing

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    Senior Member typically8's Avatar
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    Those are great questions. It was funny to read, I was expecting someone to answer you but it turned out to be you. If you have any futher questions, just ask I am sure there will be someone (you) to answer it. I am sorry, (laughing) my mind is a little off killter. I had the sam problem with my first Martin.
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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkember View Post
    I believe so thanks
    Good that you are learning some things on your own. Not that we aren't willing to help, but figuring some things out using your own brain just kind of helps it stick in your memory.

    Now, fyi, in the future it may not be necessary to back the limb bolts out to removing that hidden module screw. Most times you can just squeeze the cable toward the riser and this will rotate the cam enough to get at it. If you can't hold it quite long enough then try a zip-tie. Once you're done hold the cable while you cut the zip-tie with scissors.
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