Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: at wits end

  1. #11
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Middletown, Pa, USA
    Posts
    11,594
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    For the money I'd get a Rip Cord Code Red. Similar to what you're using so there wouldn't be much adjusting to your brain.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
    Martin Gold Plus Staff Shooter
    Alien Mafia
    PSAA Life member, UBP Life member
    PADI AOW Diver

  2. #12
    Member SixShooter14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    The Loop, AR
    Posts
    78
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by skidge View Post
    Do not advance your cam timing on those cams. I have had several models and worked on hundreds with the nitro 2.0 cams. set your timing perfect even top and bottom and set your nock height dead level thru the berger.... ...I get bareshafts and fletched almost robin hooding at 20yrds, setting even timing and level nock, hope this helps. One more thing, get rid of the stock cable slide, not much vane clearance, I replaced all mine with saunders hyperglide.
    Glad I read this......

    2 weeks ago, I raised my rest(WB) to level my arrow, 3 weeks ago, I went with the Saunders Hyperglide....last week, I replaced my limbs, this weekend I'll be sure to check my timing.....

    Thanks
    2010 Alien Z (Hybrix 2), 29", 65lb
    2011 Firecat 400(Nitro 2), 29", 62lb
    2012 Silencer(Nitro 2), 29", 60lb
    Old PSE Infinity(dual cam), 30", 70lb, LH

    "If you don't respect yourself, I can't respect you"

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Rural Fulton County, Illinois
    Posts
    380
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Welcome to the world of the unexplained

    Shooting as long as you have; Check list just be listing....

    You know have to have the limbs maxed out or backed off exactly equal. You know both modules should be set the same.

    Checking/Setting timing, always remember to back off draw stop.

    Checking timing, always draw by the grip, deepest is desired - don't draw so hard that the mods put pressure on the cables (bend). Cables should be one smooth line off the modules.

    Me; I've never had a Martin that liked the top cam advanced - dead nuts is what I've found.

    Setting the draw stop, draw bow as with checking timing - mods to the cables and no more. Once set, use sharp pencil to mark draw stop. Loosen draw stop and move to cover pencil mark (1/32"). This is for the draw stop rubber cover. Put draw stop rubber on and recheck timing.

    Setting nocking point and rest, I like the arrow centered to the berger hole or slightly above, center of arrow no higher than top of berger hole. Nock and rest set, virtually all Martins I've set up come out about 1/16" string nock high and produce bullet holes through paper.

    What are you using to check string nock position? Level for bow? Level for arrow?

    Your arrows appears to built pretty good, no spine issue. I've never had clearance issues with Blazers with Martin bows.

    Nock high tear, how high? I haven't seen a nock low or high tear that I couldn't correct. Didn't like the outcome, but nock low or nock high tears can be corrected.

    Arrow rest bounce can be determined, like Barry, foot powder will tell.

    Clearance or bounce back not a factor;
    Suggestion, raise arrow rest or lower nocking point - enough and the paper tear will change....
    Excessive movement to make or show correction; possible limb issue. I've had one Martin bow that had mis-matched limbs. To find I had to back off the bottom limb bolt 4 turns to get good paper tears. New limbs and bow came out prefect....

    Lots of good drop rests on the market, both standard and full capture. I used Limb Drivers successfully on all my Martins and customer's Martin bows.
    Former and current Back Yard Champion. I beat myself

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    506
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Limbdriver. I'm not a big fan of the full containment one, but others seem to like it. I personally use the older one

  5. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    western ny
    Posts
    45
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    trophy ridge revolution 2.0 or NAP apache carbon

  6. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    81
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    LimbDriver Pro-V, Trophy Ridge Smackdown, G5 C-Max, all driven off the limb rather than relying on a spring to pull the rest out of the way.

  7. #17
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Gods Country, Southern Illinois
    Posts
    4
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Im back and I thank you all for your help and suggestions. Been kinda hectic at work but I finally got a few hours to work on the Silencer. Well, I tried the foot powder spray.. clean shaft. Next, i tried the bare shaft test. Still high rip. Tested three different rests, a launcher, a shoot through and another drop away,,,same results. I tried taking off weight from top limb in increments up to a full turn,,,high tear, then evened them back up and did the same to the bottom limb,,,,still high tear. I was about to give up, I was out of ideas, when a thought popped into my brain, well, actually, I saw a buddys' arrow laying on the work bench. It was a 340 shaft which is really spined a little heavy for my set up. I gave it a try and about cried. The tear went from 2 - 2.5 inches down to 1/2 inch. Tomorrow I go up to the shop and get a 300 shaft. Hope that will straighten things up a little more, and with only a half inch, Im hoping I can rest tune it out. I know, its a band aid and not a cure, but right now Im happy to get decent arrow flight and be able to shoot my new martin. Im starting to wonder if the charts are set up for average speed hard cams and not the speed generated out of bows like the silencer, which would explain the need for a heavier spined arrow. Again, I thank you all for the help, and any more suggestions would be appreciated.

  8. #18
    Member SixShooter14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    The Loop, AR
    Posts
    78
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    My Silencer is set at 62# @ 29" and I shoot ICS hunter 340s....

    Any chance you have shot yours through a chrony?
    2010 Alien Z (Hybrix 2), 29", 65lb
    2011 Firecat 400(Nitro 2), 29", 62lb
    2012 Silencer(Nitro 2), 29", 60lb
    Old PSE Infinity(dual cam), 30", 70lb, LH

    "If you don't respect yourself, I can't respect you"

  9. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Rural Fulton County, Illinois
    Posts
    380
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I have this feeling something else is the problem. 27 1/2" draw and 61 pounds....400 spine should be perfect. Martin's Nitro cams aren't as aggressive as Pearson's Legend cams. Draw weight for draw weight, draw length for draw length my Pearson proved about 13 fps faster with the exact same arrow. Both bows rated 320+ fps. I shot CXL Pro 150s (.495 spine) with my Shadowcats set to 55 pounds - 281 fps with 282 gr arrow. I use HT3s (.400 spine) with my Pearson set to 55 pounds - 284.5 fps with 322 gr arrow. Zinged the Pro 150 from my Pearson at 294 fps. Shot great, accurate, but the Pro 150, though IBO legal, couldn't take the punishment. Yeah, too close to a target and the arrow would break...
    Former and current Back Yard Champion. I beat myself

  10. #20
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Gods Country, Southern Illinois
    Posts
    4
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonny Thomas View Post
    I have this feeling something else is the problem. 27 1/2" draw and 61 pounds....400 spine should be perfect. Martin's Nitro cams aren't as aggressive as Pearson's Legend cams. Draw weight for draw weight, draw length for draw length my Pearson proved about 13 fps faster with the exact same arrow. Both bows rated 320+ fps. I shot CXL Pro 150s (.495 spine) with my Shadowcats set to 55 pounds - 281 fps with 282 gr arrow. I use HT3s (.400 spine) with my Pearson set to 55 pounds - 284.5 fps with 322 gr arrow. Zinged the Pro 150 from my Pearson at 294 fps. Shot great, accurate, but the Pro 150, though IBO legal, couldn't take the punishment. Yeah, too close to a target and the arrow would break...
    Me too, thats why I said that it is only a band aid. Buuuut with deer season approaching, all of my spare time will be spent helping the wife get set up wiith her shootiing, equipment setup, scouting and treestands. For now all I really want to do is SHOOT,,,,lol Trying to find out the real problem feels like a winters' project...lol...You live in rural Fulton county, is there a Real Martin dealer in your area? The closest Real dealer I have here is in Effingham about 105 miles away. We have a bunch of backdoor garage shops but nothing too trustworthy

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •