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Thread: Lithium limbs uneven

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    Default Lithium limbs uneven

    just bout a new lithium yesterday and am very pleased with only around 30 arrows thru it. Huge upgrade from my 11' saber with the accutrak. Super smooth draw, quiet with no add-ons. should get good speed at 70 lbs abd 30.5 draw 400 gr arrows. Only issue is limbs appear to be uneven. The limbs on the cable side of the cam are more stressed (top more so than bottom). I am assuming this is due to cable tension on that side of the bow. Does not appear to have any cam lean at full draw, but looking at the hole in the draw module where the cable crosses, one cam my be slightly advanced (may 1/4 to 1/8 the hole visible on one end and hole covered by cable on other end.) Is this a good way to check cam timing? Im gonna try to atleast get 100 or so shots thru it and break it in before I do any major tuning. Hoping its not a cam timing issue this is my first dual cam bow. Only other one I have held in my hand maxed out at 60 lbs and its limbs looked even with one another. Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this on other lithiums or other split limb bows?

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    No one has mentioned it so far, But then your's is only the 2nd Lithium in an owner's hands that I know about, I'm sure that droppixel will chime in here soon ( the other Lithium shooter ) and bring you up to speed, In the meantime have you read his thread "Lithium "? By the way, welcome to the site!

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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Picture would probably help to see exactly what is going on here. The split limbs being so new hard to diagnose a problem without seeing it. Others with more knowledge than I might be able to help. I'll find and link a video of Jim timing cams on an older Nemesis, it is the same principle for the Lithium and any others with the Nitro/Hybrix bows.
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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Rytera Nemesis: http://youtu.be/TiQQOGXNzL8

    He explains pitting a mark on each module and the drawl.g the bow down. The cables should hit the marks at the same time. I might have this backwards if the bottom is behind you twist the outside cable on the top cam and reverse is the top is ahead.
    2014 Lithium :: 2007 Cheetah :: Jaguar Take-down
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    uploading pics now

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    thanks for the link. I'll check the timing tomarrow. With the draw at 30.5 #6 hole in mods with 80% let off and long valley I was unsteady. Also felt a tad short. I ended up going to the #7 hole on mod and adjusting the draw stop out a tad more. This shortened my valley and decreased the let off. it feels rock solid now at full draw. Not sure what my hold weight is but it went up just enough to steady me up. No more floating across target. Had it 2 days and already busted a nock off. If it is still shooting like this after another 75 or so shots I think I may skip paper tuning.

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    Senior Member EnglishKev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by droppixel View Post
    Rytera Nemesis: http://youtu.be/TiQQOGXNzL8

    He explains pitting a mark on each module and the drawl.g the bow down. The cables should hit the marks at the same time. I might have this backwards if the bottom is behind you twist the outside cable on the top cam and reverse is the top is ahead.
    Whichever cam is advanced, twist up the cable on the outer edge post of that cam to take it back.
    Alternatively, take twists out of the outer cable of the opposite cam (depends on where you are with other specs like ATA etc).

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    Great thread. I also have a lithium and have been following droppixel's thread and reading threads about Onza's, basically being good and not posting.

    OP, were you able to check timing? I'm very interested in what you find out.

    My situation is similar. Love the lithium so far. It shoots really well and I don't need to do anything in that regard. I'm also looking at timing as the draw length mod screws keep coming loose and have to be checked every dozen shots or so and it seems something must be causing it. Haven't noticed anything different about the limbs but I noticed the cables aren't crossing the screws in the same place on each cam, similar to what your pics show (different screw though). I'm set at +6 and with the draw stop set to the long side, and am thinking of going with +7 just as you did.
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    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    Well welcome to the forum, both of you! I'm glad that you'l love the Lithium and hope that you find this forum as fun, and friendly as the rest of us do.

    Judging the cam timing off the screws is a good place to start, and is better used as a spot check. HOWEVER, the best way to check the timing is to put it on a draw board or have someone watch the cam as you draw. When doing so, what you're watching for is the flat portion of the draw modules to contact the up and down cables at full draw... you will have to loosen up the draw stop to allow the cams to rotate all the way to this point (the draw stop is not only to help fine tune your draw length, but when set properly will keep you from rotating the cams past this point in the draw cycle). The cams are considered to be in time if the flat points contact the cables at the same time...

    As for the limbs being uneven, I think that this is a good thing; Part of the reason there have been limb failures with aggressive cams like the Nitro series is because the limbs are designed to flex up and down, but with a solid limb and a fork on an aggressive cam like these, they also twist to the cable side. Having the split (quad) limbs allows one side to flex more up and down than the other, eliminating the TWIST a solid limb would otherwise suffer from... In short, I wouldn't be too worried about it
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