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Thread: nock travel

  1. #1
    c.g
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    Default nock travel

    i have an 08 cheetah with a aae avalanche fall away rest .i cant seem to get the low tear worked out when paper tuning no matter where i put the nock point .tryed shooting fletched arrows followed by bare shafts the bare shafts are a foot high at 20yds.if the fletching were touching the rest it would kick the tail of the shaft up instead of down? can i correct the nock travel or do i live with it .it shoots a good group ,but i would like to fix it if i could thanks.c.g

  2. #2
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Are you sure you have the correct spined arrows? You might get this indication with underspined arrows. Why don't you list the specs of your setup. Bow poundage, draw length, arrow length and spine, what weight point. Vanes or feathers.

    Check the cam orientation. There should be about 3/8" to 1/2" of ths groove showing where the string exits the cam.

    Another thought is the rest. What rest are you using?

    On a whim, being as you are trying bare shafts, try turning the arrow 180 dgrees and shoot it again. See if it hits the same spot.

    Oh yeh, ho's your form? If you are gripping the bow or have too much of your palm in the grip it can push the bottom limb up and away from you when you shoot. Result could be what you are getting. Form has to be good and very consistent with short bows.

    Don't put too much importance in it shooting good groups with field points. Almost any bow can do this and with poorly spined arrows. It's when you put broadheads on that things get touchy. And it sound like in your case things could quite ugly.

  3. #3
    c.g
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    bow is set at 55pds using a f-7 module book says 29in draw but pro shop says it measures 30in .using gold tip arrows 55-75 29in ,100gn tips 4in vanes.as far as grip i could be using to much palm i try to grip the bow a little low.if my hand is all the way up in the pivot point i seem to get a raw thumb nuckle.the only broadheads i have tried are some old bear 2 blade i had from a long time ago and they shoot almost like my field tips .maybe im getting worked up because my bow isnt tuning like every body says its supposed to .

  4. #4
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.g View Post
    bow is set at 55pds using a f-7 module book says 29in draw but pro shop says it measures 30in .using gold tip arrows 55-75 29in ,100gn tips 4in vanes.as far as grip i could be using to much palm i try to grip the bow a little low.if my hand is all the way up in the pivot point i seem to get a raw thumb nuckle.the only broadheads i have tried are some old bear 2 blade i had from a long time ago and they shoot almost like my field tips .maybe im getting worked up because my bow isnt tuning like every body says its supposed to .
    You forgot to say what rest you're shooting. Your arrows are not underspined. Without doing much figuring the arrow's FOC should be adequate.

    I'm not sure about the grip though. I'll try to explain. You should NOT be gripping a bow. Your bowhand should be turned out at about 40 degrees with the bow pushing back in the web between the thumb and index finger. Your fingers should be totally relaxed which will let them naturally wrap part away around the riser.
    Pictures are worth a thousand words so you might consider doing a search at www.huntersfriend.com or on www.archerytalk.com. Type in "grip" or "shooting form" and see where it takes you. Nut&Bolts on AT has many threads showing how to properly NOT grip a bow.
    I'm not saying this is where the problem is for sure. It's just one thing to eliminate from the equation.

    And you could be right that the bow is shooting OK. Some things just can be explained all the time. But like you, it would bug the pee out of me, too. That's part of the fun of archery for me.

  5. #5
    c.g
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    You forgot to say what rest you're shooting. Your arrows are not underspined. Without doing much figuring the arrow's FOC should be adequate.

    I'm not sure about the grip though. I'll try to explain. You should NOT be gripping a bow. Your bowhand should be turned out at about 40 degrees with the bow pushing back in the web between the thumb and index finger. Your fingers should be totally relaxed which will let them naturally wrap part away around the riser.
    Pictures are worth a thousand words so you might consider doing a search at www.huntersfriend.com or on www.archerytalk.com. Type in "grip" or "shooting form" and see where it takes you. Nut&Bolts on AT has many threads showing how to properly NOT grip a bow.
    I'm not saying this is where the problem is for sure. It's just one thing to eliminate from the equation.

    And you could be right that the bow is shooting OK. Some things just can be explained all the time. But like you, it would bug the pee out of me, too. That's part of the fun of archery for me.
    my rest is a aae avalanche fallaway thanks

  6. #6
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    OK, the rest shouldn't be an issue. I was thinking if it were a prong rest then the tension might be too soft. This is not the case. And I'm sorry. It seems that you mentioned the rest in your first post and I didn't catch it.

    Considering the info you've posted so far I'd lean toward hand position on the grip.

    Something I mentioned earlier was about flipping the bare shaft over and shooting it. See if it goflies the same. Also try several bare shafts. It's possible you have one with inconsistent spine.

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