View Poll Results: did your M-pro cam/idler has leaning problem?

7. You may not vote on this poll
  • Yes, mine has leaning problem

    2 28.57%
  • No, No problem neither at rest position or at full draw

    5 71.43%
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: M-pro cam leaning

  1. #1

    Default M-pro cam leaning

    Just want some info from owner of bow which using M-pro cam. has any of you has cam/idler leaning problem? check it;

    1. at rest position
    2. at full draw

    what bow did you shoot? bengal/cheetah/pantera or any others?

    thanks for your vote and comments

  2. #2

    Angry cam lean

    Yes sir, I have a slight lean on my idler wheel at rest, Martin Cheeta 2007 with M-Pro cams that I bought during Feb2008. I also have a slight crack in the top limb which I reported to my dealer(legal distributer locally in South Africa) but I am still waiting for a reply from Martin overseas
    I only had the bow for 2 weeks when I noticed the crack and I am shooting 457gr arrows, well in the safe. I am currently shooting/hunting with my crossbow, due that my bow is out of action.
    Wish I stayed in the States where the manufactors was and could get help quickly...

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Why don't you try to contact the customer service yourself? I got the answers i needed the same day (beside one time. I really need to know the right ata of my bow but they will not give it to me...).
    (2) Hoyt PCEXL

  4. #4


    I have two 2007 Martin Cheetah's one strickly for Target and 3D and the other for hunting , my target bow is juiced up and i have it with 64 lb limbs maxed out with cam mods and Rock Solid Strings shooting Easton Lightspeeds with total arrow weight of 346 grains with 1 1/2'' mini blazer vanes @ 319 fps. It used to have a lean in the pully and cams till i unbolted my limb pockets and took them to work and CNC machined them to a 6 degree angle and re installed them now my string tracks straight , Your cam lean is coming from your slider Rod , twisting it out of the way for Vane clearance , my sugestion is to crank your limb bolts out and put 2 twists in your right side Y cable and you should see a difference in the cam lean , and make sure you have 1/8 clearance vane and string clearance that is , thats all you need , the more you twist the slider rod the more lean you are creating .

  5. #5


    I was told a little cam lean is o.k. because it takes some pressure off the cable slide. What do you think?

  6. #6
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Middletown, Pa, USA
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    For a bow to shoot perfectly straight the limbs have to be perfectly in line with the riser. That's how a bow is designed. For the string to track in line with the riser the wheels (cam) have to be in line with the riser also. So everything should be straight in relation to each other.

    In the real world of cable-guard bows this doesn't happen. At rest most of the pressure is equal or nearly so between the string and cables. As the bow is drawn most of the pressure transfers to the cables, which twists the limbs and creates cam lean. Because the applied forces are constantly changing as the bow is drawn the limb twist is variable throughout the draw cycle.

    So now the question arises. You can adjust the cable yoke to straighten the idler wheel. NOthing can be done with the cam. So at what point in the draw cycle do you adjust the cable? Remember, it's only at this point that it will be straight. This is an ongoing debate among archers and I'm not sure there is a real good answer.

    I adjust mine to be straight at rest, because this is the point at which the arrow leaves the string so that's where I want it tracking right. This isn't perfect either because as the cam leans somewhere through the draw cycle it has to yaw a bit when the bow is shot. This causes some sideways oscillation of the string which is inevitable. There is never going to be a perfect answer if using a cable-guarded bow.

    Just how nasty is this problem? Apparently not so much that most can detect. You adjust the cable yoke to get rid of all the lean you can, at whatever point in the draw cycle you so desire. Then tune the bow accordingly. It's not going to be perfect, but how many of us are perfect shooters so as to tell the difference? Just take into account that a lot of tournaments are won and a lot of critters killed every year with cable-guarded bows.

    The best answer is to use a shoot-through cable system such as Martin has on some of their bows with the Nitrous or Furious cams. Here again, not everybody likes it or can afford it, or they don't want to shoot a dual cam. And even this is not a perfect solution if a person grips the bow and creates torque anyway. Unfortunately we are not shooting machines.

    This is obviously just my opinion and is open to debate. And I welcome any and all who would like to comment.

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