Brace hight ?
I grew up with a 45# recurve but got away from it when i joined army i had no training in archery but was pretty good. I tryed c compound a few years ago but it was not as fun (for me) as traditional. recently i picked up that old recurve and am enjoying it but Im much stronger than i was then and am looking to get a 60# or so but i realy dont know what to look for my bigest question when looking at bow features is brace hight. the numbers very and in one book Ive read tells how to adjust it but not why or what it means to me. Im sure this sounds like a stupid question to some of you because it is so basic.
I thank you in advance for any help.
Typically, you adjust your brace height by twisting or un-twisting the string to keep your arrows from porpoising. Brace height will, therefore, depend somewhat on the spine of your shafts.
Get the proper spine shafts for your draw and they should not fishtail. If they do, you work on that by changing the length of your arrow and the weight of your point. Lengthening the shaft or adding point weight will make your arrows softer in spine. After you get the fishtailing corrected, try correcting porpoising by adjusting the brace. Depends somewhat on how tightly your string is twisted to start with, but I'd probably play with 4 or 5 twist at a time until you get really close.
Don't let any compound shooters work with you on this. They're likely to be really anal about arrow flight and might drive you nuts.
thank you very much. after i posted question i did more research and now have a better understanding of this, ie, i dont need to consern myself with this to much while looking for new bow, its a tuning thing, right? what im shooting now is flying straight, little left yaw at 12 steps but straight in at 15 and beyond. i realy apricate the help.
I wasn't going to write a long thing but bare with me if it turns out that way.
Brace height is the recommended distance, by the bowyer, from the string to the deepest part of the grip. When you have a bow made or buy one over the counter, you usually get something from the bowyer. My Bob Lee HUNTER has a brace height of 8"s as upposed to my MARTIN HUNTER which has a brace height of 7.75"s. Each bow is made different. By putting the proper number of twists in the string , to get to the recommended # of inches you will make the bow easier to shoot, less noise and get good arrow flight and most of all its more forgiving when you make a mistake. When the brace height is on the low end you will get or could get poor arrow flight and allot of noise.
Arrows that are to stiff for the bow WILL COME OFF THE STRING SIDE WAYS upon release. If your arrows are going up and down, move your string nock until it smooths out for ya.
One last thing, don't take whats written in those arrows charts as gospel because it isn't. I shoot a 48# and a 50# bow and I use EASTON XX 75 Gamegetter 500's which are 2016's. I practice with them and last season I was able to take 3 does with these arrows and I had no problems at all. I think the charts tell me to use 2117's which are way to stiff. They are for 60/70# bows. If your draw is around 28"s, I would try 1916's or the little heavier 2016's...................................IMHO!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I wouldn't go to a 60# bow right away. I would go to a 50#er and go up from there!!!!!!!! 60's is allot to start with.
Last edited by hawgslayer; 07-21-2008 at 03:34 PM.
i apriciate the help ive messed with the brace hight on the 45# and what you say is peg on. i have no documentation on it beacuse i bought it 35 or so years ago in a thrift shop. right now its about 8 in (just under) my arows are flyin perfictly straight and is much quieter. on the issue of poundage i would have a hard time justifing to the boss buying a bow to "work up" the compond i had a few years back was a 70# and was not even a strain before let off, the 45 feels like a toy tho it squishes my fingers a bit its a 58" so im looking for 62" plus or so i plan on trying out what ever i buy befor i buy to be sure tho. problem is the only local places here are heavly comp and dont have big seletion of trad stuf, i had to buy vaned arrows so i could strip off the vanes and replace with feathers.
the arows are game getter 400s at 29 they might be a little stiff for the 45 but i think they will be ok for heaver bow (money is an object lol).