Well I have an '08 Cheetah, 58lbs draw weight and 29" draw length shooting Goldtip hunters total arrow weight 380g/29" length. through a QAD ultra-pro rest. String was factory w/silencers and tube peep, when I 1st set it up bought a truglo extreme sight and local pro set me up with string loop and kisser and at 58# shot 254fps thru chrony F1. Went and removed tube-peep and installed G5, so bought both tru-ball tru-nok, to aligne peep, and the real waste of $, tru-fire center nok( yes, ALL 77g's of it.( after beating my forearm 1/2dz times and buying armguard)REMOVED for the other much smaller one.) It only weighs 34g's and does not smack me Until I replace factory string and purchase, probable Bucknasty, will live with arrangement. So I'm supprised my speed droped down to 235fps. Weight on string went from 20g (tubepeep and string d-loop) to 40g (tru-nok and G5).
If I can assume that would not cost me 19fps, is it possible the streeetched tube add'ed spd? I was under impression it(tube-peep) should cost me spd.
I am at a loss to explain a 19fps drop in spd!
Have you changed your bow for axle length and brace height again? The factory strings on most bows are mid quality and they can stretch over a long time, some do more, some less.
The tube peep makes your bow slower. It is much more heavier than one of those small peeps that are just installed into the string. Further those peep tube will damage your cables and string over some time. The only good thing is that it is fairly easy to installl and adjust.
Is this tru-nok one of thos ealuminium nock points which ist installed with screws and has a d-loop installed? I recommend you to remove it. Search for it at youtube and you will see embarrassing slow motion videos. I cannot recommend those nocks.
I'm not going to try to explain away the speed loss. I'm just going to explain some things I've heard and seen several times. It pertains to a metal nocking point such as the Tru Nock.
Originally Posted by Cheeta2950
To let you see what I'm going to say I want you to draw your bow and take a look at the bend in your string at the top and bottom of that Tru Nock. Quite a kink isn't it? Well, this actually creates a stress point in the string and it compounds a bit every time you draw the bow. this can cause strands to break and are hidden by the cneter serving. At some time own the road this stress can cause the string to just snap----kapow.
If you're lucky only the string will break. If you're not such ugly things can happen such as that piece of metal hitting your bow and bouncing back to get you in the eye or some part of your face. Or maybe you'll be really lucky and it'll just cut your arm or something similar. I've replaced strings where this has happened, and those guys were lucky. And those were on longer axle-to-axle bows where the kink wasn't as pronounced.
Sure, they are convenient for hooking a release to, but that's about the only good thing about them. They do other such things as wear out the release jaws from being metal on metal, usually creating a ragged edge on the jaws and making them worthless for the time when you get smart and use a string loop. They'll eat string loops apart in no time.
As far as using t to align your peep? Learn how to orient your peep so it comes back square at full draw. This might mean putting a twist ot two in the string or moving strandsaround to get the peep aligned at full draw. This is not what a loop of any kind is supposed to used for, although people do it because it's easier and no thinking involved.
So what am I saying? Get rid of the metal loop and use a string loop ifyou have to use a loop. Learn how to tie your own. Learn how to align your peep. Learn how to do almost every aspect of bow maintenance and you won't have to ely on someone else to do it and tell(sell) you something you don't need. Afterall, that person is in the business to sell things. That doesn't mean he knows any more than you. Just means he's been doing it longer. And at $15 a pop for a metal nock he bullshitted you pretty good.
You guy's just convinced me to buy my Bucknasty and eliminate the metal nok. Thank's.
That is why I bought the Bowmaster, so I could do some basic thing's myself.
It's not an Apple, but I can't afford 5 bills like that
Now to look up, How to tie a string d-loop.
Just saw the video, those blows were on my forarm, left deep/dark bruise.
Then I installed the sm one, which is the 19fps spd loss, thus Bucknasty
Hey, there's nothing wrong with using a Bowmaster. I have a bench mounted Apple that I haven't touched in nearly 5 years. It doesn't work well with parallel limbs. Besides that almost all my work is done in the outdoors at my archery club. That's where I do my tinkering and I use a Bowmaster almost exclusively anymore. It might be a little awkward and slow, but I've learned to slow down and think about what I'm doing, keeping things systematic if you know what I mean. Besides, one thing you'll never encounter is a twisted riser from pressing incorrectly.
I hope you like your Bucknasty string/cable. I've been using them for a couple years and John's are every bit as good as the $140 WC's on my target bow. One thing you should notice is that if you put them on the bow right out of the packaging they should have enough twists that they stabilize in half a dozen shots and little to no peep rotation.