# Thread: martin limbs

1. ## martin limbs

is there a list that tells what the numbers on the limbs mean? i have 2 bows that i can't get the peak wt. from either, both bows are supposed to be 45 to 60# . i thought it was my scales, i checked them on some bows that i no were 60#, they checked out alright. i just want to make sure i have the proper limbs.

2008 bengal
2008 moab

2. The weight you get out of a limb depends on the bow and cam style you are shooting with. I am not sure about the numbers on the MOAB but a 01h limb Bengal should give you 40 lbs peak weight (if i am not wrong). This means that you will get 60 lbs peak draw weight with a 3h limb.

3. How far off are they? You're strings could be too long/untwisted...

4. Originally Posted by bowgramp59
is there a list that tells what the numbers on the limbs mean? i have 2 bows that i can't get the peak wt. from either, both bows are supposed to be 45 to 60# . i thought it was my scales, i checked them on some bows that i no were 60#, they checked out alright. i just want to make sure i have the proper limbs.

2008 bengal
2008 moab
This is a post that I did many months ago to explain what you are requesting. If someone knows how to make it a "sticky" it might help others.

"I would like to clarify some confusion about how to interpret Martins limb nomenclature. It is very simple, it has nothing to do with peak or what the bottom will be; the limbs are numbered with a number and a letter. What this means is that in between each numer you will have a difference of about 5 lbs. of weight. in between each letter it is a difference of about 2 lbs. in weight. So if your set up for instance is pulling 53 lbs. with the limbs bottomed out with 3L limbs and you want 60lbs. you will need a limb deflection code of 4M ( one number higher=5 lbs. and one letter higher=2 lbs. for a total of 7lbs.)

If you need to go up 5 lbs. all you need is one number higher which would make it 4L.

If you need to go up 2 lbs. all you need is one letter higher which would make it 3M.

It works in reverse also if you want to lower your weight."

5. they are off 6#! the moab i replaced the limbs. when i bought it was doing the 60#. i'm going to put a new string on it and see if that will change anything. the bengal isn't that old and it has a martin double helix string,

6. Originally Posted by bowgramp59
is there a list that tells what the numbers on the limbs mean? i have 2 bows that i can't get the peak wt. from either, both bows are supposed to be 45 to 60# . i thought it was my scales, i checked them on some bows that i no were 60#, they checked out alright. i just want to make sure i have the proper limbs.

2008 bengal
2008 moab
How close are they? Chances are that the rigging (cable and/or string) isn't twisted enough so there isn't enough preload on the limbs. To find out limb deflections you only need to look at the bow/cam charts here on this site.

To check whether the rigging is right you need to measure the A2A and brace height. If the A2A is long and the brace height is low then that's most likely the problem.

Let us know what you find out.

7. ## limbs ok

got my new string in and on the moab, thats all it was. ata , brace ht. are just right. draw wt. is exactly 60#, and my bow has the zip it had when i first bought it.i'm going to order a new string for my bengal tonight. thanks everone for the input.

2008 bengal, trueglo 5 pin sight, quad ultra rest.
2008 moab, truglo micro ajust 5 pin sight, ripcord rest.

8. Originally Posted by bowgramp59
got my new string in and on the moab, thats all it was. ata , brace ht. are just right. draw wt. is exactly 60#, and my bow has the zip it had when i first bought it.i'm going to order a new string for my bengal tonight. thanks everone for the input.

2008 bengal, trueglo 5 pin sight, quad ultra rest.
2008 moab, truglo micro ajust 5 pin sight, ripcord rest.
You don't necessarily have to get new rigging. Just twist up what you have to get the bow back in specs. There is no guarantee that a new string will not creep and do the same thing as what's on the bow. In fact every string/cable will creep to a certain degree.

Now do yourself a favor. Take a pencil and draw a line on the side of the cam where it passes through the limb fork. Both sides of the limb. Now measure the brace and A2A. Record these for future reference so the rigging can be adjusted when necessary.

Something else to think about. When installing new rigging I always assume it will creep a little. Depending on the quality some will creep more than others. If it's factory rigging or generic stuff from a bow shop then when setting the bow up try to allow for the creep. Set the A2A 1/8" less and the brace height just a little taller. Then when the rigging is shot in it just might be pretty darn close to what it's supposed to be.

9. Originally Posted by bfisher
You don't necessarily have to get new rigging. Just twist up what you have to get the bow back in specs. There is no guarantee that a new string will not creep and do the same thing as what's on the bow. In fact every string/cable will creep to a certain degree.

Now do yourself a favor. Take a pencil and draw a line on the side of the cam where it passes through the limb fork. Both sides of the limb. Now measure the brace and A2A. Record these for future reference so the rigging can be adjusted when necessary.

Something else to think about. When installing new rigging I always assume it will creep a little. Depending on the quality some will creep more than others. If it's factory rigging or generic stuff from a bow shop then when setting the bow up try to allow for the creep. Set the A2A 1/8" less and the brace height just a little taller. Then when the rigging is shot in it just might be pretty darn close to what it's supposed to be.
thats what i've done! the old string was 3/4" longer. thanks for your info.

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