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Thread: Martin Saber Bow Opinions

  1. #1
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    Default Martin Saber Bow Opinions

    I've been thinking of purchasing a new bow for quite a while now, but I haven't had the money. I was curious if any owners have opinions for me about their Saber bow? I'm a female hunter with a few years experience bowhunting and I"m looking to upgrade from an OLD Browning compound bow. I shoot 50# and 26" draw length. Right now, my bow is shooting in the low 200's fps and I have a significant difference between my 10, 20, and 30 yard pins. I'm hoping that if I did purchase a Saber bow, that I wouldn't have such significant gaps and be able to shoot further than 30 yards. I know friends who shoot with the same pin out to 20 yards, which would be great for me. I'm also looking for a little more punch with my arrows. This weekend I shot a doe with a Rage broadhead and it appears as if the arrow hit the deer in the rib and rode the rib to the deer's belly and fell out of the deer. Basically I didn't penetrate the ribcage. With that being said and many hours of searching after the shot, I couldn't recover the deer. I'm not sure what happend to cause all of this but I'm definately looking for solutions. I hoping that a new bow would boost my confidence, make shooting a bit easier, have more punch for my arrows, and be more compact.
    Thanks for your advice and I'm looking forward to your opinions on the bow!

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  3. #3
    flytier17
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    Looks like you need speed cams if you want to get lots more energy out of a short draw length. Look at the Firecat. This is not a beginners bow, so if youve been shooting bows already, this is good. You may have problems getting the effective letoff on that short a DL though. I have a friend who is a Martin ProStaffer. He has a Firecat , and also has a 26" DL. He hads to shortstring his bow a bit to get a true 80% at 26". It is also a nice light bow, so it is comfortable to shoot for those with a smaller physical stature as well.

    Bear in ming that those guys who shoot one pin out to 20 will probably have a longer DL, and get a lot more speed. They also probably shoot a higher poundage. You may have problems geting out to 20 on one pin, but it can definetly get a lot better.

    I don't normally reccommend this, but what if you increased the poundage you draw as well? With an agressive cam like the Firecat has, you probably should stay lower, and still be comfortable, but if you shoot enough, you may be more comfortable with a higher poundage dow the road. Martin Bows have a 15lb range on them, sohaw about looking at a 45-60lb bow. You don't have to shoot 60, but even 55 will give you more speed. I typically ever reccommend a higher poundage, but if you have a short DL and are realy stuck for speed, this might be an option. never shoot more than you arew comfortable with though.

    There are other things you can do to increase speed too.

    1 Use a release with a flat head and forward trigger. Get one that has the head connected by a strap. adjust it as shot as your hadn will allow to still be comfortable behind it. One of the advantages that women have is smaller hands, so you can adjust your release head closer and still be comfortable.
    2 Shoot off the serving. No loop. Not great advice for a target shooter, but the effect on your accuracy will not be significant, esp. for hunting.
    3 NO PEEP TUBING!!! you can lose 15fps on that alone! get qualitystrings and a tubeless peep, and you will gain a lot of speed.
    4 Use an STS and get rid of the string silencers. Another 5-10fps there as well.

    As for more punch in your arrows, try a small diameter heavy arrow. Light carbon will lose KE a lot faster, whereas a heavy arrow will penetrate further, even through bone. I reccommend the Easton FMJ's personally. Aluminums are good too, but fat. Or, a heavy carbon. Also, a 125gr. tip and fixed blade broadheads.

    Don't feel bad about your speed BTW. I know a woman who shoots a 23" DL @ 103fps with the lightest arrow she can find! 200 is not that bad.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    You can do what Alec said above, but I would advise you whole heartedly to change broadheads. With the kinetic energy your setup is producing you should not be shooting an expandable head. Too much potential energy is lost to deploy the blades. I know the Rage doesn't use as much as most expandables, but you need all the help you can get.

    As for choosing the FireCat? I would recommend it if you can handle the cam and it fits your pocketbook. I shoot one at 26.5" draw and only 45# (temporarily) with very light (267gr) arrows and I'm not the least bit afraid to hunt deer with it. It's generating 278 fps as is and I haven't really supertuned it yet.

    Watch the draw length though. The FireCat only goes down to 26" (advertised), but mine seems to run a little long.

    If you are seriously looking for a new bow then you should know this. Poundage is just a number, as is speed. BUT----a harder cam bow can produce more speed for a given poundage. It can also produce similar speed with as much as 8# less draw weight. In other words, comparing two bows at the same weight is not always the way to go. Set two bows up to produce the same performance (speed) and you'll find a harder cam bow may feel just as good on the draw as the softer cam. It just doesn't need to be shot at higher draw weight to achieve that speed. If you can adjust to the feel of the harder cam over time you might benefit from more speed. Make any sense?

    Another thing to keep in mind is that with less energy to get the job done you, me, or anybody needs to consider keeping shots a little shorter. Although I can shoot well out to 40 yards and beyond I still consider about 25 yards to be the limit of my equipment. And waiting for good shot angles enters into it, too. And even all this doesn't give any guarantees.

    Another bow you might want to look at is the Leopard with the mini-MPro cam. Performance might be OK with this as you'd be shooting it near the top end of the draw length range. Just a thought. Price should be comparable to the Saber. Then there is the Cheetah---right between the other two.

    Now my thoughts on using one pin out to 20 yards. Really, you should probably sight your first pin for 20 yards. Then shoot it at 10, 15, and 25 yards and see what they change in impact is. You might be pleasantly surprised to find that at 15 yards it's only about 1 1/2" high. Certainly something to consider. Or maybe use two pins. One for 15 yards and the other for 25 yards. For 20 yards or there about just gap between them.

    Hope some of this helps. Please keep us posted and don't be afraid to ask more. We're here to help.

  5. #5
    flintforever
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    Default Martin saber

    I pick up one this past August -08 and i have yo say it is a fine bow for the money.I had in mind a easy draw bow due to my neck surgery past December -07 .
    I also look at the Parker legend another soft bow cam to draw:I decided after shooting the martin I did purchase it.
    I been a bow hunter for a lot of years going back to the late 60's from stick bow to the first Allen bow.
    I also have 2 bows hanging on the wall a Marting water hog and a 4 wheeler browning that has taken a good number of deer back in my prime but it seem age is creeping faster then I thought.I love the martin bow shoot excellent I am using the be man ICU Hunters 400 grain shaft and I found almost any 100 grain broad head seem to fly as good ot better then field points.
    I missed a nice but about 2 weeks a go I misjudged the yardage and just went over the buck back about a 1"or 2" the shaft hit the ground before the deer new what happen.I have it set at 50lbs for now and will keep it there for this year hunt.I will increase the bow weight next year to about 55lbs.
    I like to set up my bow so I can draw it from a sitting position if I have to from a ground blind.

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