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Thread: Price for a martin jag setup

  1. #1
    Trapper
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    Default Price for a martin jag setup

    What would be a good price for a 2004 or 2005 Martin Jag. 55#-70# dyna-cam. Comes with trophy ridge drop zone rest, hha single verticle pin sight, quiver (3shot), 20 easton epic 400 arrows, 5 with 100gr. rocket ultimate steel broadheads, 6 practice points 100 gr. nice hard case and also a soft case, the block archery target. Also a scott release,string loop and a bowstring wax. He thinks it's an 05 model. Everything is in very good to excellent condition.

    It's got an F-3 module on right now and it set on the number 3 pin what draw length is it? I think it's a 27" draw. He's a little shorter than I am but from what I've read you're better off with a shorter draw length than a longer one. Can you adjust up or down a little on the pins or what are they for? I used a chart from huntersfriend and that said my DL should be 27.6". If I remember correctly on my old bow the DL before was 28". The bow felt good and seemed to fit when I drew it back without using the release or having an arrow on it. It's set at 55# now is there any problems with having a bow turned all the way down?

  2. #2
    Trapper
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    Ok I done a search and it looks like the bow is set at a 26.5 inch draw now. F-3 mod on the 3rd post of the cam. How much would it change the rest, sight, knocking point and arrows if it was moved to the 2 or 1 post? It seems to fit good but I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet as the weather hasn't cooperated. It's kinda cold here.


    I also was wondering about the arrow length on his arrows. I measured them from the knock valley to the end of the shaft and they're 27". I drew one back with a field point on and it's out past the end of the bow. It's got a dropzone rest which it looks like if I move the DL to 27.5 I'd be ok with a 27" arrow wouldn't I? From what I looked up on the pages if you have a drop away quite often the arrows are shorter than your DL correct?

    Note I put this in a new thread this morning because the topic is different than the other question I had. I really like his bow now that it's set at 55# and if all I have to do is change the DL it might be a very good deal.

  3. #3
    Nova
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    Here's my take. I just paid about 175 for a bow the same year rigged out like yours. Arrows are 5-7 bucks each a good release is 50+, a block is near 100, a case is 40+, and broadheads are basically 10 bucks each. See what he wants for it and if it is somewhere around 250-300 you are probably pretty good.


    Someone posted a manual for about that year of bow for me a while back. If you search my old posts it will show up and will tell you most of what you need to know.

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    I won't answer everything but start with the draw length. Modules change the draw length by 1". Moving the string from the number 3 post to the number 2 post will increase it by 1/2", so if it's at 26.5 now (physically measure it) moving it to the #2 post should make it 27".

    Before you do this check the nocking point height. Being as the bow was shot and hopefully tuned you'll need to move the nocking point when you move the string. You'll probably still have to retune the bow for your form, but it'll give you a good starting point.

    Does the string have a loop on it or do you intend to have one put on? If so then for starters I would leave the bow at 27" and see how it fits after the loop is installed. The loop will stretch you out about 3/4" more than the draw length and the last thing you want to do is be too long on the draw.

    Nothing wrong with shooting the bow at 55# and nothing wrong with those arrows or their length.

    Specifically what HHA sight is on the bow? This can make a big deifference in what it's worrth. HHA has sights for $50 and they have sights for $150. Big, big difference.

    I gotta go now and cok dinner for the wife. I have price sheets so I'll try to work something up and be back later this evening. The Jag was $275 new.
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  5. #5
    Trapper
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    I've got the bow here and it's not an HHA sight like I thought, it's a truglo single verticle pin with a level and an adjustment knob on the side for different distances. You mark it on a white sticker. He said it was around $75.00 to $85.00 or so at Cabelas when he bought it. I thought he said HHA sorry about that. It does have a Trophyridge dropzone rest. That I can see. The block target still has the sticker from Cabelas on it for $60.00 on sale

    The bow does have a string loop on it now, and when I pull it back the bow string comes past my nose a little bit to look through the peep. That's why I was thinking it needs to be an inch longer draw. I know my old jennings was a 28 inch draw but I rememember on that one you had to change the string to change the DL.

    Yes his bow was tuned and set for him. This is the first year since he got the bow he didn't get at least one deer with it. He hurt his shoulder and is having trouble with that so he's going to quit bowhunting.

    Glad to hear the arrows will be OK. Is the rest going to have to be adjusted or is it all right?

    Thanks for the help.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trapper View Post
    What would be a good price for a 2004 or 2005 Martin Jag. 55#-70# dyna-cam. Comes with trophy ridge drop zone rest, hha single verticle pin sight, quiver (3shot), 20 easton epic 400 arrows, 5 with 100gr. rocket ultimate steel broadheads, 6 practice points 100 gr. nice hard case and also a soft case, the block archery target. Also a scott release,string loop and a bowstring wax. He thinks it's an 05 model. Everything is in very good to excellent condition.

    It's got an F-3 module on right now and it set on the number 3 pin what draw length is it? I think it's a 27" draw. He's a little shorter than I am but from what I've read you're better off with a shorter draw length than a longer one. Can you adjust up or down a little on the pins or what are they for? I used a chart from huntersfriend and that said my DL should be 27.6". If I remember correctly on my old bow the DL before was 28". The bow felt good and seemed to fit when I drew it back without using the release or having an arrow on it. It's set at 55# now is there any problems with having a bow turned all the way down?
    OK, I'm back and dinner was good.

    Seems I didn't comletely read your first post. I see string loop mentioned.
    Price I quoted above is from a 2005 catalog and the price is MAP (minimum advertised price). This is usually the over-the-counter price. So..........

    Jaguar..............................$275 (2005 new price)

    The followong prices are retail today.................................
    Rest...................................$80
    Sight...................................$80 (OL-3000)
    Quiver.................................$20
    Arrows................................$70/doz
    Broadheads..........................$32/6
    Block Target.........................$75
    Hard Case............................$30 (Plano)
    Soft Case.............................$20 (Allen)
    Release..............................$55 (Mongoose)

    String wax and loop are part of the cost of shooting. Zippo.

    To tell the year of manufacture of the bow you look at the first number of the serial number.
    If everything is in good shape then I'd total it all up and look at maybe 60% of the new price.

    So, what's the asking price?
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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trapper View Post
    I've got the bow here and it's not an HHA sight like I thought, it's a truglo single verticle pin with a level and an adjustment knob on the side for different distances. You mark it on a white sticker. He said it was around $75.00 to $85.00 or so at Cabelas when he bought it. I thought he said HHA sorry about that. It does have a Trophyridge dropzone rest. That I can see. The block target still has the sticker from Cabelas on it for $60.00 on sale

    The bow does have a string loop on it now, and when I pull it back the bow string comes past my nose a little bit to look through the peep. That's why I was thinking it needs to be an inch longer draw. I know my old jennings was a 28 inch draw but I rememember on that one you had to change the string to change the DL.

    Yes his bow was tuned and set for him. This is the first year since he got the bow he didn't get at least one deer with it. He hurt his shoulder and is having trouble with that so he's going to quit bowhunting.

    Glad to hear the arrows will be OK. Is the rest going to have to be adjusted or is it all right?

    Thanks for the help.
    Sorry I didn't read your post before listing prices. A correction is called for.

    Sight..........$70 (Range Rover)


    OK, now you need to know something. Comfort level has something to do with how long you draw, but generally speaking the string should not come back past the end of your nose. But if you like it there then you'll just have to experiment with it, but I wouldn't go any longer at this point.

    You asked about the rest adjustment. Are you new to this game? If so then that's another reason to leave the bow alone. If you should change the draw length by moving the string to the #2 post then you'll have to change the location where the cord for the rest is attached to the down-cable. If you're new then this is better left to an archery shop---at least for now.

    Couple other things you should know. If the strings on the bow are the originals then you should change them maybe this spring when you get some money. And don't go real cheap on the strings. Get a decent aftermarket set. They don't cost that much more and are made a whole lot better than factory originals.

    Strings creep (elongate) over time and this causes the bow to change. The draw length gets longer, the weight goes up, and the bow changes it's tune. It's a slow process that you might not even notice, but one day you'll be shooting NOT so good and wonder why. Pull your hair out trying to figure what you're doing wrong. Well, maybe it's just that the bow doesn't fit you as well as it once did.

    So who makes good strings? Try the classified on www.archerytalk.com. H&M, Rock Solid, Prostrings, Bucknasty, Vapor Trail and many others. Pretty much any listed there make strings much better than you're likely to find in a local shop. Stay away from Winner's Choice because of the cost. Stay away from Zebra (Mathews) because they are high priced garbage.

    Oh what the heck, I'm on a roll here. Find a shop near you and learn all you can. The more you larn the more you'll be able to know whether to trust those working on your bow. Many people will tell you to find a good shop. If you don't know anything how the heck are you to know whether a shop is good or not. Well you have to start somewhere.

    Find a local club and join. Shoo there and get to know people. You'd be amazed at how many are willing to help you. Sometimes you have to ask, but that's OK. You might even find you a good shooter that is willing to mentor you (coach). Big time dividends.

    OK, I ran off at the keyboard long enough. Your turn.

    Barry
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  8. #8
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    I looked at the bow number and it's 044xxxx so it must be an 04 not an 05. I don't know how much that changes the price but let's say if I can buy it all for $150.00 it's a good deal? I don't think I'll get hurt on this at all if I do wind up selling it later. I'm looking at getting back into bowhunting and don't think I can come up with a better deal. The jaguar isn't a bad bow to relearn on is it? I know it's a lot easier to pull and hold than my old jennings machined extreme xlr from 1994.

  9. #9
    Trapper
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    I don't have a martin dealer close by here. There is an archery pro shop about 20 miles from me and I've been there before. He doesn't sell Martin but he does work on bows. He handles Bowtech, Hoyt, and High Country along with some equipment suppliers. He does give lessons and has an indoor range, I think it runs around $30.00 an hour. When I was up there a few years ago he had some used setups there and was asking like $250.00 for nothing special on used novas. I think he probably would have come down some on them but I'm looking at this Jag as being a pretty good deal for the money.

    I also have a Cabelas close by and they put the sight and rest on the bow. I just don't know about working on anything on my own. I don't know that much about tuning them and I've heard Cabelas is hit and miss. Some employees are knowledgable, some aren't.

  10. #10
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trapper View Post
    I don't have a martin dealer close by here. There is an archery pro shop about 20 miles from me and I've been there before. He doesn't sell Martin but he does work on bows. He handles Bowtech, Hoyt, and High Country along with some equipment suppliers. He does give lessons and has an indoor range, I think it runs around $30.00 an hour. When I was up there a few years ago he had some used setups there and was asking like $250.00 for nothing special on used novas. I think he probably would have come down some on them but I'm looking at this Jag as being a pretty good deal for the money.

    I also have a Cabelas close by and they put the sight and rest on the bow. I just don't know about working on anything on my own. I don't know that much about tuning them and I've heard Cabelas is hit and miss. Some employees are knowledgable, some aren't.
    Are you serious? $150 for the whole works? In good shape I'd jump on it if you think you want it. Let me explain the Jag for you. It was Martin's entry level bow for a few years. The difference between it and several of their upper echelon bows is that it has a cast riser, magnesium I believe whereas the others are machined aluminum. They all share the same limbs, cams, and strings. So "entry level" might be a misnomer in this case.

    I know what you mean about personel at Cabela's. This is what it's like at a lot of the box stores. If you are going to use them you need to find who knows what and deal with only that person, especially when getting work done on your bow.

    If you ever get the itch to do some of your own work come on here and between a few of us we can guide you along. Most things on compound bows are fairly simple. A few basic tools and a willingness to screw it up---so we can help you---and you'd be amazed at what you can learn. A veru useful tool not often mentioned is a digital camera.

    OK,, gotta go. Got other forums to visit. Later

    Barry
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