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Thread: Fletch questions

  1. #1
    flytier17
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    Default Fletch questions

    Well, I tried a new fletch cement on my CXL-SS's, and it works. Too well. I'm having a heck of a time stripping the fletches without scraping the carbon.

    How badly can the carbon be scraped before it is damaged enough that the spine will be affected? I don't have a spine tester yet; I'm saving up for it though.

    How can I strip the vanes so as to ensure minimal damage to carbon.

    This is the first time I've stripped a carbon surface. I shoot aluminum X7 Eclipses for spots, and FMJ's for hunting. Never fletched a carbon surface before.

    Also, how much prep do I have to do for the arrow wrap to stick? No more than if I were fletching right on the shaft i assume.

    Also, can I clean the surface of an arrow wrap with Methyl Hydrate as I do to a shaft before I fletch? Or will it wreck the wrap.

    Alec

  2. #2
    flytier17
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    Anybody?????

  3. #3
    SandSquid
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    Well that's a lot of questions....

    I have been experimenting with new glue from Victory.. I donít know if it's publicly available yet but it's GREAT stuff.

    WRT stripping vanes, I use a roofing hook blade for a utility knife and a light touch.


    I find it has less of a tendency to gouge a flat-spot in the shaft.

    If the blade "catches" and you cut into the shaft I retire the arrow.

    For cleaning, I use a green scotch-brite pan dipped in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, availible at most druggists, to clean and lightly roughen up the shaft.
    Follow this up w/ a lint free towel dipped in the same 91% Isopropyl to get any residual carbon dust off.
    Then glue directly to the shaft or apply the wraps.

  4. #4
    flytier17
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    Thanks for the reply.

    I think most arrow makers have a buffer zone on top of the carbon fibers. As long as the fibers don't get damages, you are fine. That's what I read at least.

    Barry; you have shot about every type of arrow made for the last 30 yeads, or pretty close. Just how deep do I have to cut to damage a CXL?

    Alec

  5. #5
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Alec,

    Do you want an honest answer? Over the years I've used a lot of tools on different shafts. Dull knives, sharp knives, scissors, you name it. Whatever I got into my hands at the time. And these to remove feathers, vanes, and several types of glue.

    Pretty much what I've settled on is a untility knife with a sharp blade. For vanes I hold the arrow in my left hand with the blade held at about a 10 to 15 degree angle. Holding the knife in the right hand I start the blade under the front of the blade and help push it with the left thumb until I get enough of the vane lose enough to pull it off. If it tears or is stuck then I keep going with the knife. Once the vane is removed I just scrape the blade back and forth at the same angle, but with less pressure till I can feel no more glue gobs or ridges. Pretty simple, really. Nothing magical.

    If I've used any super glue then I continue with the scraping. If I use Fletchtite Platinum then I use a cloth and acetone to vigorously rub until the shaft is smooth. Then clean it with 91% alcohol and refletch.

    Just lately I tried some 4" wraps to see what all the hoopla is about. They do make the job easier and quicker, but at $1 apiece the jury is still out. That and I have to be careful about the FOC. That's why I'm using 4" wraps and 2" feathers.

    27" Gold Tip Ul 500 with 80 grain tip and CB bushing and G nock and the FOC is just shy of 11%. Pretty good really. I have some arrows set up with regular inserts and 65gr Saunders screw-ins that are identical, for all intent and purposes. I have 4" feathers on them and I could probably throw on my 75gr InnerLoc b-heads and hunt with them, but at about 285gr they'd be a little on the light side.

    Here I go rambling again.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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  6. #6
    flytier17
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    I'm shooting 3-D, and I'll be using Aerovanes probably. They are about 6.5grs. apiece. I also have an arrowskins wrap on it at about 6 grains, making a total weight of about 25.5grs. on the back. I have a CXL-SS Adj. point without a weight of 70grs. on the front. CXL-SS's have an advertised "weight-forward" balance too. Now, I don't have Aerovanes, and I haven't put any wraps on yet, so I can't measure FOC. How do you think it will fare?

    Alec

  7. #7
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    I won't even venture a guess. I shoot with people who use CXL's. I don't pull their arrows. I have enough problems with my shoulders.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
    Martin Gold Plus Staff Shooter
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  8. #8
    flytier17
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    Use scorpion Venom target arrow lube.

    I practice 3-D with a ball of Saran Wrap in a socer ball. I kick it out, estimate the range as fast as possible, and shoot a spot on it. It is VERY dense plactic wrap. All I have to do is twist the arrow a little, and it pops out 2 fingers. made the mistake of shooting a nonlubed shaft, and it was welded to the plastic. I had to cut through the ball toget it back. That Scorpion venom is slick as snot!

  9. #9
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    I don't need or use any type of arrow lube. I shoot GT EZ Pull points and 45#. I don't have arrows burn into the targets because they neither get hot or penetrate. I take it a step further. I keep the score cards and let the other guys pull. Besides, they're all younger, too.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
    Martin Gold Plus Staff Shooter
    Alien Mafia
    PSAA Life member, UBP Life member
    PADI AOW Diver

  10. #10
    flytier17
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    Hah, thats funny. Besides, it gives you a great opportunity to sabotage their score card too. Not that you would eed too, but still...

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