Fletch questions

[flytier17]

Well, I tried a new fletch cement on my CXL-SS's, and it works. Too well. I'm having a heck of a time stripping the fletches without scraping the carbon.

How badly can the carbon be scraped before it is damaged enough that the spine will be affected? I don't have a spine tester yet; I'm saving up for it though.

How can I strip the vanes so as to ensure minimal damage to carbon.

This is the first time I've stripped a carbon surface. I shoot aluminum X7 Eclipses for spots, and FMJ's for hunting. Never fletched a carbon surface before.

Also, how much prep do I have to do for the arrow wrap to stick? No more than if I were fletching right on the shaft i assume.

Also, can I clean the surface of an arrow wrap with Methyl Hydrate as I do to a shaft before I fletch? Or will it wreck the wrap.

Alec

[flytier17]

Anybody?????

[SandSquid]

Well that's a lot of questions....

I have been experimenting with new glue from Victory.. I don’t know if it's publicly available yet but it's GREAT stuff.

WRT stripping vanes, I use a roofing hook blade for a utility knife and a light touch.


I find it has less of a tendency to gouge a flat-spot in the shaft.

If the blade "catches" and you cut into the shaft I retire the arrow.

For cleaning, I use a green scotch-brite pan dipped in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, availible at most druggists, to clean and lightly roughen up the shaft.
Follow this up w/ a lint free towel dipped in the same 91% Isopropyl to get any residual carbon dust off.
Then glue directly to the shaft or apply the wraps.

[flytier17]

Thanks for the reply.

I think most arrow makers have a buffer zone on top of the carbon fibers. As long as the fibers don't get damages, you are fine. That's what I read at least.

Barry; you have shot about every type of arrow made for the last 30 yeads, or pretty close. Just how deep do I have to cut to damage a CXL?

Alec

[bfisher]

Alec,

Do you want an honest answer? Over the years I've used a lot of tools on different shafts. Dull knives, sharp knives, scissors, you name it. Whatever I got into my hands at the time. And these to remove feathers, vanes, and several types of glue.

Pretty much what I've settled on is a untility knife with a sharp blade. For vanes I hold the arrow in my left hand with the blade held at about a 10 to 15 degree angle. Holding the knife in the right hand I start the blade under the front of the blade and help push it with the left thumb until I get enough of the vane lose enough to pull it off. If it tears or is stuck then I keep going with the knife. Once the vane is removed I just scrape the blade back and forth at the same angle, but with less pressure till I can feel no more glue gobs or ridges. Pretty simple, really. Nothing magical.

If I've used any super glue then I continue with the scraping. If I use Fletchtite Platinum then I use a cloth and acetone to vigorously rub until the shaft is smooth. Then clean it with 91% alcohol and refletch.

Just lately I tried some 4" wraps to see what all the hoopla is about. They do make the job easier and quicker, but at $1 apiece the jury is still out. That and I have to be careful about the FOC. That's why I'm using 4" wraps and 2" feathers.

27" Gold Tip Ul 500 with 80 grain tip and CB bushing and G nock and the FOC is just shy of 11%. Pretty good really. I have some arrows set up with regular inserts and 65gr Saunders screw-ins that are identical, for all intent and purposes. I have 4" feathers on them and I could probably throw on my 75gr InnerLoc b-heads and hunt with them, but at about 285gr they'd be a little on the light side.

Here I go rambling again.

[flytier17]

I'm shooting 3-D, and I'll be using Aerovanes probably. They are about 6.5grs. apiece. I also have an arrowskins wrap on it at about 6 grains, making a total weight of about 25.5grs. on the back. I have a CXL-SS Adj. point without a weight of 70grs. on the front. CXL-SS's have an advertised "weight-forward" balance too. Now, I don't have Aerovanes, and I haven't put any wraps on yet, so I can't measure FOC. How do you think it will fare?

Alec

[bfisher]

I won't even venture a guess. I shoot with people who use CXL's. I don't pull their arrows. I have enough problems with my shoulders.

[flytier17]

Use scorpion Venom target arrow lube.

I practice 3-D with a ball of Saran Wrap in a socer ball. I kick it out, estimate the range as fast as possible, and shoot a spot on it. It is VERY dense plactic wrap. All I have to do is twist the arrow a little, and it pops out 2 fingers. made the mistake of shooting a nonlubed shaft, and it was welded to the plastic. I had to cut through the ball toget it back. That Scorpion venom is slick as snot!

[bfisher]

I don't need or use any type of arrow lube. I shoot GT EZ Pull points and 45#. I don't have arrows burn into the targets because they neither get hot or penetrate. I take it a step further. I keep the score cards and let the other guys pull. Besides, they're all younger, too.

[flytier17]

Hah, thats funny. Besides, it gives you a great opportunity to sabotage their score card too. Not that you would eed too, but still...