No problem. Stick around here if you can; become a regular, and you'll hopefully learn a lot. Feel free to answer any questions you feel like you can, and there will be plenty of others to either verify or correct your answers. This is like a discussion if you will. Don't be afraid to ask a question, and have fun and learn.
Like I said, the cable track is hard to damage. If it is bent though, it is most likely on the cam and NOT the module. The modules are plastic, so they would be more likely to break than bend. However, maybe the plastic module has an abrasive crack or something in it.
Let us know how it goes,
The main bow tech called Martin tech support yesterday, they talked for a while and tech support didn't have any more suggestions than what had already been done. They wanted me to send the bow back. I picked it up tonight and the second bow tech noticed that the cam had a sharp edge on it where the cable serving contacted it. You couldn't see it, he just happened to feel the cam in that area.
I wouldn't think the cable serving should contact the side of the cam at all, should be maybe 1/16" away, but it does anyhow. So when I got it home, I got a small, very fine file and smoothed/rounded off the sharp edge. Then I blackened the filed edge with a Sharpie and took it out to test it. Couldn't hear or feel any grinding or bumps when I drew it. All I heard was the sound of the shaft going through my whisker biscuit.
Woo hoo! I think maybe it's fixed.
The thing that makes me uncomfortable is that it's probably still contacting the side of the cam, it's just not getting dug up by the sharpness.
Do the cable servings on other Martin bows slide along and contact the side of the cam as it turns??
Is a small wear section normal on the lower serving? The second bow tech seemed to think it was. He showed me a couple other non-Martin demo bows that were starting to show the same wear.
He said that seems to be common on bows that have the cable slide because the slide is pulled way over to get the cables out of the way of the arrow, which then makes it easy for the cable to contact the side of the cam.
Mathews roller guide is better because it's bent so that it keeps the cable off the cam.
Does anyone else here have that kind of wear on their serving?
Soynds like you may have it all sorted out. Good for you.
One more yhing you can test for roughness and sharp edges is run a silk cloth (glasses cleaner cloth works great) over the suspicious area, and try feel it snag. This also works for checking for cracks in limbs.
All bow cables; whether Binary Dual, Binary Hybrid, Trinary, Hybrid, Dual, or Solo, are dragged out of the way of the fletches by a cable guard. They always come off the cam at an angle. This will always lead to some degree of rubbing on the side of the cam. How much is determined by the severity of the angle. Highprofile fletches require more clearence, so the angle is more severe. Thats why you always adjust your cable guard (if you can), to barely clear the fletches. This ensures the gentlest angle possible for the cables coming off the cam, and also minimizes cam lean, and increases bow effeciency.
Small wear will always be aparrent, due to the aforementioned algle of the cable. Good serving on a good quality aftermarket strings will last longer. It will be flattened and shaped to the side of the track it fits in, and maybe a faded colour too. After a lot of shoooting, it may seperate again, but by then, the string should be replaced again too.
You can wax the string to help lessen the wear on the serving too. Put a small amount of bowstring wax in the serving where it is getting worn, and do not rub it in. Let it cover and protect the outside of the serving.
I also reccomend Scorpoin Venom Cam and Serving Lube. This is VERY slippery, and lubrigates the cable and string track to make it easier for the servings of the string and cam to conform and settle in the track. Put it on the servings that contact the cam. DO NOT put it on serving that does not touch the cam. It is very fluid, and the string absorbs a lot. If it goes on the serving off the cam, you will lose a lot of unnecessary speed. I mad ehte mistake on my Slayer, and lost 7fps. I removed it with a bowstring cleaner, and tried again just on the cam, and lost only 1.5fps and had the same amount of protection.
Man, that's great information! Thanks. I've got a call in to Martin to see if they either have a replacement cable rod holder or can tell me if there's a way to adjust mine to pull the rod closer to the riser. I shoot Blazers so I don't need much room.
I'm also going to see if anyone here sells that serving lube. It makes sense. Kind of like putting WD40 on metal parts to make them slide together easier.
Is your cable rod bent? If so, you can loosen the set screws and rotate it to adjust the amount it pulls the cables away. It should be pointed down, so as to place the apex of the pull of the cables as close to the fletches as possible. This will translate into the lest amount of required pull to sufficiently clear the cables.
With a Dropaway arrow rest, rotating the cock fletch sideways and away from the cable will also make for less pull needed for fletch clearence.
I kind of wish it was bent, then I'd have the option of rotating it. But no, it's perfectly straight. I called Martin and asked if it was adjustable on any of their bows including new ones and they said No. Would be nice if a guy could move it so it was out just enough to clear the fletches, adjustable for different ones.
You can probably get a bent one ot the nearest shop for $10 or less.
Lube the serving of the string and cable where it will ride on your cam, but not on the serving that will never be on your cam.
You can use SV Cleaner if you don't like the results. It worked for me fine.
Not sure on the cable rod thing; I thought they were setscrews in the sight window side of the riser. Anyone else? What bow are you shooting?
I just now went and checked on those set screws. You're totally correct. There are 2 of them. The front one fastens the rod holder to the riser. The back one also attaches the rod holder but additionally tightens down on the rod. So it's quite possible to swap out the rod. I'll be looking for a bent one. Thank you!