Alec, he can't rotate the cable rod. It's a straight carbon model that's fixed for position. There is nothing can be done about the cam lean except have a dealer order new limbs and hope that solves it. Even so, that should have nothing to do with a vertical tear.
I'm not good at copy and paste so I'll type in the website. www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601
This should get you on the road to timing and tuning those binary Cat cams.
I'm like Alec. I hardly ever paper tune a bow. I like to bare shaft starting at about 6' and work my way back to at least 20 yards. If the arrow spine is correct and I get little or no side planing I'll bare shaft out to 35 yards, playing with both the nocking point and bow weight. Rarely, if ever do I move my rest. I set it with a lazer and then play with the poundage to get rid of any side planing.
When it's all done right you should be able to shoot a bare shaft and if you see anything going the only thing you'll see is the nock of the arrow. The arrow should enter the target (bag) straight with little nock height deviation nor should it plane to one side.
Then I'll shoot fletched arrows and do a little tweaking to get them both hitting the same POI. Then I adjust my sight accordingly. If everything has been done right then broadheads should impact at or nearly the same place, too.
Of course bare shaft tuning can be a little daunting. A lot depends on the arrow spine being close to begin with and the shooter having consistent form, too.
Hope some of this info helps. There's more but I prefer to take things one step at a time.
If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
Martin/Rytera Staff Shooter
PSAA Life member, UBP Life member
PADI AOW Diver