cam lean

[1A12]

OK so I have a 2008 Firecat and I just put new strings and cables on it. I dont know but it looks like my lower cam is leaning. How di I fix that Also I have no idea how to check if its in "time" or not.

Its not tuning very good at all, I keep getting a high tare. I started by moving my rest up, then down and then moved the nock but still get the same tare.

My set is 65# give or take, 28" cx maxima arrow it should stiff enough, I checked the tiller everytihng is good there. Im using a Hostage rest and everything seems good there too I have enough vane clearance, did the foot powder trick, Im at a loss. I hope someone can help

[flytier17]

The CAT cam system is essentially binary hybrid. There is really not much you can do about lean. Rotate your cable guard for minimum clearance to start with.

the cams are timed when they both rollover at the same time. The modules should stop against the string at the same time.

The maximas should be a 350 (.340 deflection). If they are the 250's (.400 deflection) they are too weak.

See where the cam timing goes before attacking that tear. If you need to change the timing, nock travel might improve, solving your tear.

make sure the strings are adequately stretched in before timing the cams.

Papertuning is not the beallandendall of tuning. It is barely a beginning. I personally never use it at all. I do this:

Basic setup.
Bareshaft tune after good visual setup of centershot.
Centershot tune.
Rest-stiffness and vertical tune.
Group-tuning.
Broadhead tune the arrows, NOT the bow.

[bfisher]

Alec, he can't rotate the cable rod. It's a straight carbon model that's fixed for position. There is nothing can be done about the cam lean except have a dealer order new limbs and hope that solves it. Even so, that should have nothing to do with a vertical tear.

I'm not good at copy and paste so I'll type in the website. www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601

This should get you on the road to timing and tuning those binary Cat cams.

I'm like Alec. I hardly ever paper tune a bow. I like to bare shaft starting at about 6' and work my way back to at least 20 yards. If the arrow spine is correct and I get little or no side planing I'll bare shaft out to 35 yards, playing with both the nocking point and bow weight. Rarely, if ever do I move my rest. I set it with a lazer and then play with the poundage to get rid of any side planing.

When it's all done right you should be able to shoot a bare shaft and if you see anything going the only thing you'll see is the nock of the arrow. The arrow should enter the target (bag) straight with little nock height deviation nor should it plane to one side.

Then I'll shoot fletched arrows and do a little tweaking to get them both hitting the same POI. Then I adjust my sight accordingly. If everything has been done right then broadheads should impact at or nearly the same place, too.

Of course bare shaft tuning can be a little daunting. A lot depends on the arrow spine being close to begin with and the shooter having consistent form, too.

Hope some of this info helps. There's more but I prefer to take things one step at a time.

[1A12]

thanx guys I will give these ideas a try. Im using 350 maxima's I forgot to add that. I usuualy dont care about paper tuning all that much, but these are pretty bad, and yesterday my bh's were all over the place, so I wanted to get it close with paper. I will try the other methods you guys said thanx a ton