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Thread: 3 Guesses

  1. #1
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Default 3 Guesses

    Hey guys,

    Guess what I did today? For the first time in about three years I waxed my strings. All of them. The Moab was showing some wear where it rolls over the idler and also where the cable and string roll through the CCS. You know, I got one of those bows that didn't have serving in those spots.

    I also served at the mentioned places. While I was at it I checked nock fit, which has been tight since day one. Well, as I was serving the thing anyway I used one of my G nocks to check and found the .014 serving I was using was almost a perfect fit for those G-nocks so off came the center serving too.

    As I was finishing up I said to my wife that what I was doing was totally dumb because I'm getting custom strings anyway. As I though more about it I don't know why I put up with the nocks being too tight this long. I've been getting really ugly arrow flight. I know my arrows are too stiff, but not that bad.

    The good thing is that early next week the weather is supposed to be nice. I have to tie on a nock set and start tuning all over again, just to see if anything changed and how it may have changed.

    Tinker, tinker, tinker. Man, I love this sport. Just can't believe I had to buy string wax after all these years. ML6, by the way.

    Barry
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  2. #2
    flytier17
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    I wax after every time I shoot, which is to say every day.

    #1. I can keep a constant eye on the strings condition. I'll notice the moment something goes hinkey.

    #2. The weight of the wax affects the speed. If I do not wax, out at 50yds and farther, I can see my groups getting a bit higher. Probably only 3-4fps, but it still counts. So If you wax once, you have to keep it up i guess.

    #3. Prolongs the life of the string. I'm convinced of that. Every time I swap strands or move the peep or split the string for inserting/removing silencers and other accessories, a well-waxed string slips and moves easier, with less stress. I've noticed a dramatic reduction in the amount of spiders and fuzz from such wear. Comparatively, I think shooting has a far less profound effect on the seperating of string fibers than all this tinkering does.

    So why do you choose not to wax?

    What string material are you using? Light stranded or standard diameter? I've been using gnocks too, and they are too tight too. I have to manually weaken eack nock with a lighter, and open them by hand for every one. I'm shooting 8125 light stranded, but i don't know the diameter of the center serving.

    I have to get me a serving tool and serving. One thing I haven't done yet. Whats your reccomendation for the tool and material?

    Alec

  3. #3
    byaffsroyal
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    i wax everytime i sot as well i even went as far as to apply heavy wax and use hair dryer at a distance to melt the wax and rub it into the string .i notice my shots are affected when i dont

  4. #4
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    OK, why do I choose not to wax? Good question. Here's my take on it. The prupose of string wax is to protect and lubricate the strands so they don't abrade each other. We probably agree to that.

    String material comes off the spool from the factory already waxed so it's already permeated into the string. This takes care of the original abrasion thing. I would assume from rubbing a string that they are also coated with extra wax when built which does more lubricating and makes them waterproof. OK?

    Well, this protection just doesn't go away when shooting a bow a hundred shots or so. There is always residual wax within the strands even as some of it disappears on the outside. This is where the fuzzies and such occur.

    Don't ask me why, because I shoot my bows almost daily. OK not quite. Maybe an average of four days a week throughout the year. About 50 shots a session. When not in use my bows are in a good case being protected and are almost always in my truck. I hardly ever get any fuzzies. When I do see one I rub the string vigorously between thumb and finger which heats the string anough to move the wax around and take care of a fuzzy. I get very few and often a lighter will get rid of it.

    But over time I know this wax is coming from inside--between the strands. However this is so infrequent that by the time a string is really in need of wax it is getting replaced. Heck, usually the whole bow is getting replaced.

    Alec, although I've had pretty good results with factory strings from Martin I do replace them once in a while. This is the case with my new Moab. The string is not up to my standards so I'm going to get new ones from a local guy I'm trying--changing the color, too. His string material is 452X whereas usually use BCY 8125. So I'm trying new material and a new guy. That's how I learn stuff.

    Answering the string count question? Because I shoot light weight I could probably short-strand this time. Maybe two strands, maybe four. I don't know. Been pondering this just to get more speed. But, then I'd have to use larger diameter serving for nock fit which would be heavier so it may end up a wash anyway. Might only short it by two strand for the added stability. Afterall, that's part of the reason for aftermarket anyway.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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  5. #5
    Desmond
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    After all this talking about waxing and string and stuff, I checked the string on my SLAYER and guess what?? My string servicing is coming apart at both ends! man, that sucks and I can't afford a new set for now. I think I'm gonna' take them off before they break and possible can hurt the limbs???

  6. #6
    Senior Member alex's Avatar
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    Desmond, i don't think you need to replace the whole string and cables, but just the demaged serving...I've waxed my bow only once, but have shot less then 150 shots.Waxing for vertical bows isn't so important as for the crossbows, but i wouldn't risk ignoring it
    2008 Martin MOAB - 45-60#, set at about 51-53# / 55#" Perfect Line" compound/ 55# Mongol horsebow/ 45# "Perfect Line" takedown recurve/ 45# Bearpaw Grizzly hunter recurve/ 55# Samick Longbow Cheetah ... and several homemade bows

  7. #7
    Desmond
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    Well ,the truth is that I'm a "seasoned' shooter". I shoot a lot close to hunting season, although I do practice a few times every month. My SLAYER is an 06' and still have the original strings. To go a bit further,... My 03' Tracer still have the original string and it looks like new and this bow have taken a beating and still strong. I would never complain about then Martin Helix strings. Never have problems with them. Oh,... and I wax my strings with original chap stick. It's softer to apply and it gets really good into the string's fiber.

  8. #8
    Senior Member alex's Avatar
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    I think i have Double Helix Elite on my MOAB and also like them-i'm not an expert archer and can't complain about their quality-they are good for me.I use a Bohning wax-"Textite" or something like that, but have used "Barnett" crossbow wax and like it more-i hope it's not a problem waxing the MOAB with a crossbow wax.
    2008 Martin MOAB - 45-60#, set at about 51-53# / 55#" Perfect Line" compound/ 55# Mongol horsebow/ 45# "Perfect Line" takedown recurve/ 45# Bearpaw Grizzly hunter recurve/ 55# Samick Longbow Cheetah ... and several homemade bows

  9. #9
    flytier17
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    I prefer the scorpion venom wax, but for a true wax, Excalibur Deck Wax is pretty nice. it goes on thinly and smoothly, and also is not too messy. Its absically just beeswax. Smells nice too.

    Alec

  10. #10
    Senior Member alex's Avatar
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    Beeswax!!! I could try a beeswax, may be mixed with a technical vaseline , when my Bohning is off (i'll keep the Barnett wax for my Quad 400).
    2008 Martin MOAB - 45-60#, set at about 51-53# / 55#" Perfect Line" compound/ 55# Mongol horsebow/ 45# "Perfect Line" takedown recurve/ 45# Bearpaw Grizzly hunter recurve/ 55# Samick Longbow Cheetah ... and several homemade bows

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