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Thread: blazer vains hitting rubber shelf

  1. #1
    guitar309
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    Default blazer vains hitting rubber shelf

    I have a 08 slayer and I have talked about this before.. but I have a problem with the rubber shelf.. it doesn't seem to stick out as far as some models I have looked at and it keeps hitting the vain...

    no I am shooting the whisker biscuit with the odd vain up... could this be the problem? should I just change to a drop away and see what happens? that way the odd vain will be out and not at enough angle to hit the shelf?

    at my local bow shop we checked everything out.. the arrow is at the correct height... everything is aligned correctly I don't get why It would not clear the shelf...

    any ideas... ?

  2. #2
    brushrat
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    i'm not a moderator....but just my 2 cents worth. I had a similar problem one time (not with a slayer) though. If you just rotate your knocks to cock vane out, then your lower vane runs into the black bristles on your whisker biskit......not a good thing. The only choice i found was to raise everything up. The rest,the sight, string nock, the peep...the whole mary-anne! That allows you to continue shooting cock vane up. If your lucky and still have enough vane clearance between your rest and your sight after youv'e raised it, then you are home free, you don't have to do any major re-tuning afterwards. I wasn't that lucky ,i had to move the sight up too. Maybe one of the moderators will have a less painful solution..........

  3. #3
    Senior Member bowgramp59's Avatar
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    even if you put a drop away rest on your bow, which i prefer! you will still have to put the odd vane up. the only thing that might be wrong is your rest isn't setting in the true center. the way i get my true crnter is ,i have 2 of those little 3/16 allen wrenches that comes in those cheap screw driver sets. i cut a slot in the top of those bits with my dremel tool the slot needs to be inline with limbs. with 1 in each of your limb bolts , stretch a string from 1 to the other, i use those plastic cords from a set of ear plugs with a knot at each end. that should give you the center of the sight window,[ ain't this long ] i made me a short arrow that fits between the bow string and the string on the limb bolts, nock the arrow and move the rest until the point of the arrow is pointing at the string that is between your limb bolts, this will put your rest in the true center. if this doesn't give you enough clearence, i don't know what else to do. hope this helps, good luck
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  4. #4
    Desmond
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    I had the same problem with my Slayer when I decided to get my latest set of arrows with them darn Blazers vanes. I use a drop away rest so for me the best I could do to clear the vanes from the shelf was to have the odd vane pointing away from the shelf's wall and had to twist/move a bit the cable guard and problem solved. But I'll be getting my next set of arrows with the new 3" Quickspins ST Hunters.

  5. #5
    brushrat
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowgramp59 View Post
    even if you put a drop away rest on your bow, which i prefer! you will still have to put the odd vane up. the only thing that might be wrong is your rest isn't setting in the true center. the way i get my true crnter is ,i have 2 of those little 3/16 allen wrenches that comes in those cheap screw driver sets. i cut a slot in the top of those bits with my dremel tool the slot needs to be inline with limbs. with 1 in each of your limb bolts , stretch a string from 1 to the other, i use those plastic cords from a set of ear plugs with a knot at each end. that should give you the center of the sight window,[ ain't this long ] i made me a short arrow that fits between the bow string and the string on the limb bolts, nock the arrow and move the rest until the point of the arrow is pointing at the string that is between your limb bolts, this will put your rest in the true center. if this doesn't give you enough clearence, i don't know what else to do. hope this helps, good luck
    cleaver way to do it !.....iv'e never heard of that technique , but that should get you really close. Any fine tuning could be done afterwards if needed, but that would let you know immediately if your center-rest position is the problem, and you wouldn't have to move a lot of stuff around either, maybe the stabilizer if it sticks out too far...... Should work!

  6. #6
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    I'd like to see if I can shed some light on a few things.

    For brushrat---you don't have to be a moderator to add some advice or make suggestions. Us moderators actually welcome others' suggestions. Never know when we can learn from others, so feel free to try to help.

    For guitar309, from reading your post I assume your vanes are hitting the shelf and not the side of the site window. If so I honestly think bruashrat's first post is the best solution here. Contrary to what you may often hear your rest does not have to be psoitioned so that the arrow bisects the rest mounting holes. If you're vanes are hitting the shelf then raise everything up. 1/8" or 1/4" isn't going to change the tune of the bow that much.

    Just measure where everything is right now and move the rest, the kisser, and the peep all the same amount. Then raise the sight the same amount.

    This is a quick fix and doesn't cost anything. If your arrows are leaving the bow straight changing to a drop away rest is not going to help anything. All it's going to do is help empty your wallet. If however, your bow isn't tuned well it's possible the nocking point (loop) is too low which will cause the nock end of the arrows to be driven downward as the arrow leaves the bow. Just something to check out.

    Now getting to what bowgramp is talking about. He's talking about centershot. His idea has some merit, but is flawed in one respect. Doing as he says puts the arrow in the physical center of the bow just at that point where the arrow meets the string. If your bow is like 99% of all bows the string does not track down the center of the bow, but is offset to the left for a right handed bow.

    If it's a dual cam bow then the offset is equal at both limb tips. This being about 1/8" to almost 3/16" on some bows. Therefore you need to move your rest so that the arrow is pointing this far to the left also. This is what we refer to as the "dynamic" center of the bow.

    If it's single cam bow then the idler wheel on the top limb is usually centered, but the cam (bottom limb) is offset to the left, therefore the string actually tracks diagonally in reference to the riser. Therefore you have to set the rest to the left a bit, but maybe only 1/16" to about 3/32".

    In either case this is just a starting place for the rest. During any tuning process the rest may need moved to compensate for spine issues or torque induced by the shooter. That's what tuning is all about.

    The only bows that can be set up on the physical center and work out are Martin bows with some sort of X cams on them because these cams are designed so that the string tracks right down the center of the bow. As far as I know these would include Fury, Nitrous and Furious cams.

    I would say that using gramps' idea, but just wrapping the string around the allen wrenchs so it comes off the left side would probably be very close to dynamic center on most bows. For what it's worth I used to have a commercially made unit similar to what he is explaining. I have to admit his idea is one that doesn't cost a lot.

    Anyway, I hope some of this helps. If anybody has a different idea or what they think might be better then speak up.
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  7. #7
    guitar309
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    If I just buy a new drop away... then I would be able to leave the odd vain out and should shoot fine right?? maybe I should just find a good drop away... I have been wanting one anyway.. and it would solve all of my problems...

  8. #8
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    I'm with Bfisher
    Just move the whole kit and kaboodle up. how hard is that?
    trying to have the arrow line up vertically with the cushion button hole is immaterial.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by b0w_bender View Post
    I'm with Bfisher
    Just move the whole kit and kaboodle up. how hard is that?
    trying to have the arrow line up vertically with the cushion button hole is immaterial.
    Exactly. The arrow does not need to bisect the rest mounting holes. I don't know who started this myth, but it's not true. Many years ago the deepest part of the grip was the center of the bow and frankly they balanced and aimed better. The rest was mounted so the arrow was about 2" or a little more above where it is now and bows were tunable back then, just as they are now.

    Somewhere along the line somebody got the idea to move the grip below center. I don't know the reasoning, but essentially all it did was move more mass weight above the grip making bows top heavy.. Sure the rest now mounts lower, but it's still not in the center of the bow. Measure from both axles and on most bows you'll find that the arrow shelf is the center, or very close to it.

    So Guitar, just move everything up just a bit and see what happens. You really have nothing to lose. And besides, it doesn't cost as much as a drop away rest.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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  10. #10
    guitar309
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    ok so I got everything worked out !!! everything is shooting fine! lol although after months of trying to figure out what drop away to go with.. I was thinking the limb driver... now I have decided to try a spot hogg infinity rest... at least just for target shooting...

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