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Thread: What vanes do you prefer?

  1. #1
    jbowers12
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    Default What vanes do you prefer?

    I was wondering what kind of vanes does everyone prefer for hunting? I like the blazer vanes but I always have trouble getting a fixed broadhead to fly straight with them. I have usually been using 4in duravanes. I like the blazers better though. I've been trying to get them to fly straight with a muzzy. I've tried every grain. I finally got them half way good with the 4-blade 100 grain. I shot on doe the opening day at 45 yards. Got a good pass through. Didn't run 25 to 30 yards and died in front of me. But then i started shooting at the house and they kept flying crooked. So iv recently just been hunting with the 4 in vanes with fixed blade. What fixed blad broadhead do you shoot with blazers. I dont like mechaninal broadheads.

  2. #2
    flytier17
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    Default

    Well, I consider a lot of things when choosing a fletch.

    The primary objective of the fletch is to stabilize and controll the arrow. This can be done, and usually is, by spin. An arrow flexes when it is shot. To control the flex of the arrow, they are made in different spines, so they flex accordingly to the force put out by individual bows. The better a job a fletch does in spinning the arrow, the more work is taken away from the arrow itself, so a lighter spine will fly better. This is usually insignificant enough to disregard. However, there are two exceptions.

    First: High intensity vanes that spin the arrow far more than standard will actually cause an arrow of a lighter than standard spine to work. For example. With my FMJ's 340's at 29.5", they were correctly spined for my Slayer. Then I switched to a Quickspin ST, the bareshaft tune showed the arrows to be too stiff. The spinning actually compensated for the arrows flex enough that I moved to a .400 spine, and the same length, and it was very close. When I tried Aerovanes (another high-intensity spinning vane), I had similar results. Blazers and duravanes would not nearly spin the arrow as much, and they required a stiffer spine.

    Secondly, a dampening vane can control the arrow well. The actual flex of the vane acts like springs or shocks if you will. Flex-Fletch was the first to capitilise on this theory, and in my mind, they are still the best. both the material of the vane, and the taper dampen the osscilation better than most other vanes.



    Other things to consider:

    Drag: A highdrag fletch might spin the arrow more, and provade more control, but it also loses speed and energy rapidly. It can cause terrible longrange groups, and really wasted energy. Helical fletches, and fletches like the quickspin are high-drag fletches. Fletches like the aerovane, or offset fletches are lower drag. Aerovanes are actually close to being no drag, since they are fletched straight, and spin by each vane providing lift, not drag. The results speak for themselves. With Aerovanes, my groups were 17" higher at 60yds than 4" quickspins, and a lot tighter too.

    FOC: A heavier vane balances the arrow more towards the rear, making it harder to conrol the arrow. My rule of thumb is if you use a heavier fletch, use a heavier tip too. FOC for a hunting arrow should run 12-15%. Aerovanes and Quckspins are heavy fletches. FlexFletch and Feathers are lighter.



    So, which vane for you?

    FlexFletch: is my favorite. If you shoot Blazers, use the Flexfletch counterpart; the Flash. Otherwise, pick the right length that provides the best steerage without excessive drag. 3.5" is a good hunting length. Fletch offset, and that with the dampening properties will control your arrow well, without being too heavy, or too much drag.

    Aerovanes: are faster and flatter. But, learn about them before you try. They are a very different vane. Flatter trajectory is great for 3-D and hunting alike.

    Blazers: I'd use the FlexFletch Flash as it is the same highprofple idea, more durable, and better quality and consistency than a blazer. Plus, you get the dampening of the FlexFletch properties.

    Feathers: Other than indoor competition, I'd use a FlexFletch of the same lenght. less drag, and more aerodynamic. more durable too. Plus, the dampening.



    Right now, I use the FlexFletch Flash for hunting, the 3" LowProfile FlexFletch FLP-300 for 3-D, and feathers for spots. I'm experimenting with switching to Aerovanes for hunting and 3-D. Have to do more shooting with them and testing group sizes and trajectory gains before I'm fully convinced.

  3. #3
    davydtune
    Guest

    Thumbs up 2" Blazers

    Blazers all the way for me.

    If your arrows are not flying quite right with broadheads there is a good chance something else is up. Possibly fletch contact or a tuning issue. I've used Blazers with some of the biggest fixed heads and got them to fly great all the way out to 60 yards.

  4. #4
    flytier17
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    Default

    Now broadheads are a whole other matter.

    #1: NEVER change fletches to make the BH fly. Fletches are chosen for one reason ONLY. To steer the arrow, and correct the spining oscillations to the best they can.

    Try a bunch of BH's. Muzzy's never worked for me. Slick tricks have never NOT worked for me. Just slap a few on, and try different rotation orientations. Some work. Some don't. Like I said, I've enver had a Muzzy that flew rght, but Slick tricks always have, no matter the fletch. I friand of mine has always had the muzzy's do great for hum. Wasps, Thunderheads, Strykers, Montecs, and the like are all popular. Most BHs will ethically kill. The only difference to look for is which ones fly right.

    If you have the money, look at Silver flames. Quite possibly the finest BH ever made. Fly right every time. Pricey though, at $30 a head.

    Alec

  5. #5
    jbowers12
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    Default

    silver flames look great. i may have to try some out.

  6. #6
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    Default Aerovane II in color and FAQ page being built

    AEROVANE FAQ
    http://www.firenock.com/AerovaneFAQs.htm

    Aerovane II in 7 colors in stock, soon to be 10.
    Red, Orange, Green, Pink, White, Black and Clear is here; Yellow, Lime, and Blue to follow soon
    some of them in actual colors, need to take more pictures soon.


  7. #7
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    JB,

    I checked back on some of your earlier posts and it seems you are shooting GT 5575 arrows out af a 29", 70# bow. I think this is your main problem, not the fletching. Your arrows are underspined for your setup.

    This comes under the heading of TUNING. You need to turn the weight down on the bow to about 65# and see if the arrows work better with broadheads. Also the fletching needs to be offset ot helical to keep those blade flying true.

    I'd bet a paycheck on this.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    JB,

    I checked back on some of your earlier posts and it seems you are shooting GT 5575 arrows out af a 29", 70# bow. I think this is your main problem, not the fletching. Your arrows are underspined for your setup.

    This comes under the heading of TUNING. You need to turn the weight down on the bow to about 65# and see if the arrows work better with broadheads. Also the fletching needs to be offset ot helical to keep those blade flying true.

    I'd bet a paycheck on this.
    My bows are (AR 31, Bladerunner A51, Darton 3500S) all set at 65 lb, I am testing the following arrows myself, there are a few others also testing this.
    Goldtip Pro hunter 55/75 75/95
    Goldtip Expedition 55/75 75/95
    Goldtip CAA .350, .400,
    Victory HV1 300, 350, 400
    Victory V1 300, 350, 400
    Victory V3 350, 400
    Carbontech Rhino 45/70

    It seems that the arrow length is critical with Aerovane II. I am trying my best to find an easier way to so people know how to use this vane with their set up. Not all people are willing to cut their arrow 1/2" at a time to find the perfect length.

    How we testing and test results about Aerovane II at http://www.firenock.com/Aerovane2.htm

    As the main designer of Aerovane, I know the fact that the moment you put an offset on it, it start to loss speed and KE as the drag increase geometrically and defeat the entire reason for having an airfoil design. Not to mention it screw up the reason why I use 92 durometer plastic. Aeroavne II is also the only vane on earth that have a programmed Aerodynamic Elasticity Memory to deal with circular lift and angle of attack (leading edge induced delta vortex) that was so perfectly tuned base on hours of wind tunnel testing.

    Just for your information, Aerovane II will turn an arrow about 80 time in the first 20 yards compare to the usual 3 to 5 times in most vanes. Our current test shows that compare to blazer, you can hit 120 yard with 9o pin out of a 344 bow. And most bow can throw an arrow over 295 FPS should hit the same spot up to 40 yards while 36 yard is more or less the norm with Aerovane II (on a well tuned bow). The last test we have show that the length of the arrow and weight distribution is critical as one can shot the same length, and set up with 3 different spine size (CX maxima 150, 250, and 300 out of a 67 lb 2009 Xforce dream season and 29.5" with wrap and Firenock, CX maxima 150, 250, 300 at 30" out of a 66lbs Darton 3500S) and all shot the same bullet hole. I do not know why as I am still trying to explain the observation.
    Last edited by firenock; 05-04-2009 at 11:04 AM.

  9. #9
    jbowers12
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    No, whenever i could not get them to fly straight i had a hoyt last year set at 60# and a 29 DL. I have shot them now with my martin. They fly great with 3 or 4 blade muzzys so im set.

  10. #10
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    Default Airfoil, straight design

    below is our Airfoil testing in the wind tunnel when we are trying to fine tune Aerovane II. As you can see the airfoil at 25 MPH can and had cause the vane to turn even such low air speed.


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