'08 Firecat bit me today, I'm pissed.

[NewNYBowhunter]

I just bought an '08 leftover Firecat, and got it home from the shop Friday.
Today, I thought I'd sight it in. First shots off to the left at 10 yards. Shot my first group of three, and picked up arrows for a second set after a slight adjustment. I had to find the right allen wrench to fit the sight, which the dealer didn't tighten all the way, it was loose. So after moving the sight, I shot two arrows, both off to the left still. move sight over to right to go right, and I got BIT pretty damned good on the inside of my arm, I now have a half goose egg on my arm. ( And yeah I had a doc look at it because I don't usually show this much damage that easily, and I have a lot of high veins in my arms that I don't need damaged) I've been string bit before, but not this bad.
The bad part is, My arrow was cut almost clean at the front of the fletchings, and two of the fletchings are separated from the shaft. I have no idea where the rest of it went.I also know my arrows should be able to handle the bow.(Easton carbon raiders 55 -70) After looking at the bow, I saw part of the teflon string guide was cracked off, and the string is loose from both catches, no idea where that is yet either.
I know on my end this bow was never dry fired, it came out of the box at the dealers shop, still in the plastic packaging. I fired 4 arrows through the bow at the shop, picked it up 2 days later after he put the sights on and a kisser button. I shot the 6 arrows to sight in and it blew up on me. That's 10 total arrows!!!!
Is this a sign of a major defective bow, and should it be returned to Martin?
I bought this bow because of all the things I read and the reviews I saw, expecting this bow to be of excellent quality, and the last one I buy for a long time.

[Jake-the-snake]

is your draw length too long?...and when sighting in a bow, if your bow shoots left, follow your arrow--meaning if your arrow hits left, then move your sight left

[Spiker]

I am by no means an expert and there are a ton of fellows on here that have forgotten more than I will know - however I would like to add a comment to this post. I have been shooting the bow and arrows since I was about 6 or 7 years old (about 45 years now) and have really never had an issue with a string slapping my arm. I've owned just about all the bow brands (currently 5 Martins, a PSE and a Bear) and I've never ever owned an arm guard or any such unit. I shoot sleeveless as much as possible.
That all changed a couple months ago when I got my new 09 FireCat.
I pulled it outta the box - did a quick measurement check - threw an arrowrest and nock on it and shot about 300 arrows thru it to get it broken in.
All was well ! Then I switched out the rest for one that I really wanted on it made a couple other changes and took it out back to the range. The string would put a 'goose egg' on my arm every shot! Plus the rubber bumper on the SST would fly off every shot. So - to my draw board it went. What I found with it is that if it isnt tuned up correctly - the string hits my arm. Especially if the centershot is off ! ! !
Once I got the cams wrapped up - ATA and BH on spec. - and centershot and nock point all dialed in - It has never hit my arm again! It puts bulletholes thru paper and groups my field points and broadheads right together. And I've shot around 2000 arrows thru it since. Maybe more...
If I wuz you - I would recheck the tune on it and go out and try it again.
Also make sure that the SST is centered on the string. Mine shoots best and is the quietest with the string almost touching it at rest.
Just my 2 cents...

[NewNYBowhunter]

Ok First off, I don't know why everyone thinks that my draw length is too long, I think it's too short, it's set at 29, and I think I'm closer to 30, I was measured at the dealer at a little over 29" so the draw would be short, and the release loop should make up the rest I'm just about 6'1" and don't have tyrannosaurus Rex arms. I think a longer draw would let me straighten out more, and let me lock out and roll my elbow over, flattening the inside of my forearm.
Second, if the teflon cable slide cracked and broke off during the shot, releasing the string from it's catches, with the force of the limbs and the draw weight, sending the cables over fast and hard enough for it to cut the fletching end off my arrow, hitting the string stop, which could torque the bow left causing it to string slap my arm, Why would anyone think it's shooter error, and not a mechanical defect of this bow? Part of the bow broke during a shot, the bow wasn't banged around or mishandled to make it fail, it just had a mechanical failure. I've Shot over a thousand shots with my other bow, and never had this happen. ever.
Yeah I'm still pissed

[eldermike]

Sounds like the arrow failed on you, which can have almost the same affect as a dry fire. Sounds like all the other things happned once the weight of the arrow was lost on the shot. One thing to check is nock fit on the string. I like to hear the thunk of the arrow nocking tight on the string.

[flnative75]

I love my martin bows and have been in a shop when someone pulled a firecat back and completly exploded the limb I myself shot a firecat and shot alot and have never had any issues myself but I do know this ,the shop gave him a loaner since he was heading out of town for a hunt and martin took care of the problem before he even got back

[hotrod26]

Ok I think a longer draw would let me straighten out more, and let me lock out and roll my elbow over, flattening the inside of my forearm.

The longer your DL the more prone you are to get forearm slap!!

[Desmond]

The longer your DL the more prone you are to get forearm slap!!

This is true. Last week I got new set of strings on my SLAYER and I decided to get a "D" loop installed on it which I've never used before. The extra 3/4" length of the loop made me slap my arm on the first two arrows I shot with it. Now I'm used to the length difference and re-adjust my form.

[NewNYBowhunter]

I appreciate the responses so far, I called Martin and I'll be sending the bow for them to repair. Like my user name says New NY Bowhunter, I am new to bow hunting, and don't own perfection, But,I don't abuse my equipment, and try to maintain it properly.My arrows are carbon Raiders 55 70, so they should be able to handle the draw weight. I am going to be looking into new arrows for this bow, and keep the ones I have for my other bow.

[bfisher]

I appreciate the responses so far, I called Martin and I'll be sending the bow for them to repair. Like my user name says New NY Bowhunter, I am new to bow hunting, and don't own perfection, But,I don't abuse my equipment, and try to maintain it properly.My arrows are carbon Raiders 55 70, so they should be able to handle the draw weight. I am going to be looking into new arrows for this bow, and keep the ones I have for my other bow.

I didn't see any mention of the draw weight of the bow. Today's bows impart a lot more energy to the arrow than those of the past so it's possible that your arrows are underspined for the bow. I'm not familiar with your arrows, but suffice it to say that possibly 55-70 is not stiff enough if you are shooting over 65#. Also how long are the arrows and how heavy of a tip?

It's possible that the cable slide came apart and caused the incident. Afterall, they are part of a mechanical system and as such can fail. It's rare, but it does happen. Did you take the bow back to the dealer? This might be the wise choice. Without seeing the bow it might be possible that all that's needed is a new cable slide and a good looking over then shoot the bow at the shop to make sure everything is OK.

Yeah, I might agree with you that if the cable slide broke during the shot then the cables could have come flying toward the arrow and caused a bunch of nasty things to happen. Without having been there I'll give your assessment the benefit of the doubt.

As for the goose-egg on the arm? The bow's draw length might be OK. Just guessing, but height often correlates to the wingspan and yours sounds about right. If you have a loop this stretches you out a little more. Do you grip the bow? You shouldn't. Gripping the bow turns the forearm in toward the string which can cause some nasty string slap. I suggest you get on www.archerytalk and do a search on "GRIP". Nut&Bolts is a real guru on bow setups and shooting form and has lots of postings on how to "not" grip a bow. I hate to say grip because grip is not what you should be doing. Let's call it "hand position" to be more accurate. You can do this while waiting for your bow.

Hope everything comes out alright. Keep us posted.