Jaguar tuning problems
My dad is having some problems tuning his 2005 Jaguar.
First of all, his strings recently snapped on him while shooting, about an inch and a half up from the draw adjustment peg on the bottom "dyna" cam, where they are completely served. Let me say before hand that he never abused the strings in any way, they were far less than one year old, and showed very little wear. The reason I point this out is the first thing everyone says when you tell them the strings snapped is "well what did you do to them". The answer is nothing. They were kept clean, well waxed, not used in the rain, and had reletaively few arrows through them. Whats more, the same thing happened to me, identically, on my 2005 Orion, and our local Martin dealer did not seem surprised to hear about it so maybe its a common problem with the Dyna Cam?
In any case, he took the bow in to our local Martin dealer and had Winners Choice strings installed. When he got the bow back it was not shooting well. I took a look at it for him and sure enouph it was way out of wack. I put a centershot guage on it and his arrow was resting far to the right of center. I adjusted his rest only to find out that there was not enouph. After sliding the rest, a nap quicktune 1000, all the way to the left and rechecking with the guage I found out that his arrow was still slightly more than 1/16" to the right. He shot it like that and said it was much better than before, but its still not right, and is bothering me. Can anyone give me some insight as to why we cant get centershot with this rest? I never checked it before he had the strings replaced, so I cant say for certain that he had ever achieved a true center shot, but he says the bow was shooting fine until now. I posted this info to bowsite and one person replied suggesting that the bowshop may have bent the riser of his bow in the bowpress? Is this possible? Is it possible that the strings breaking has damaged some other part of the bow causing this problem?
Also, the bowshop had rotated his cable guard around so the bend in it was straight up and down. This put the cables in nearly in line with the shooting string and gave him no clearance for the vanes on his arrows. He took it back to them and was told that the cables "had to come off the cam straight". I dont see how this makes any sense if it causes the vanes to strike the cables when the bow is shot. I also have had work done at this bowshop, and they rotated my cable guard around so the bend was facing up as well, even though both bows had them in the opposite position from the factory. Does this make any sense to anyone? Please help! Any info you can give regarding these problems is greatly appriciated.
hello,i have that same bow,2005 model,,i have no problems so far like yours,but it sounds like your cable guard is not adjusted right,you can go up or down with it but it still should have some lean to it,either way...your strings need to just clear the vains,,,doesnt take much.....maybe your proshop got to short of strings on it,,,,,,,,heres what i would do,,,,,take your sight off....adjust your cable guard ,if you can,as it was from factory....and measure axle to axle and see if it measures to spec......hope this helps,,,,,take it back and have them do it right....if you can ,shoot it at your proshop until it shoots to your satisfaction....also my strings do not come off the cam straight,,,,your proshop is b,s....you.....you might need to find another proshop..................
The cable gard thing don't sound right at all ...Can you take a picture and post it .. I would go to another pro shop if you have one around and see what they say..none of my bows have ever been set up like that ..
The ONLY system where the cables can come off the cams straight is a shoot through system such as the X-Cams. If it isn't this type of system you will have cam lean it is unavoidable. I believe that once you gat the cable guard worked out you will find your center shot comes back in line. If it doesn't work out get in touch with me and we will figure this out.
Paul is right, with a cable guard involved you are going to experience some cam lean, though minimal. First adjust the cable guard outward so that you achieve adequate clearance for your fletchings...but no more. Excess clearance only adds to side pressure and wheel lean. As for the rest issue, the Jag does prefer the rest a little outside the string, but the QT1000 should offer plenty of adjustment. I don't always have 100% faith in the true center guage. Do you have another method of measuring rest position? I prefer to eye-ball the bowstring, lining it up with the groove in the idler wheel. This sounds crude, but it's very effective as a starting point. Then adjust to tune for arrow flight.
As far as string wear is concerned, the DynaCam has no inherent problems. It is very difficult to determine cause of string failure without the ability to examine them. I am sorry I cannot offer more insight....do you still have them? If so, would you be willing to send them in for inspection?
Thanks for the suggestion everyone. I have now registered for this site so that I can continue this thread.
I do not have my dads bow in hand right now, and wont get a hold of it again until this weekend. As far as the cable guard, I have already rotated it out just far enouph to give him clearance for the vanes on his arrows. Both his Jaguar and my Orion have the cable guards that have a bend towards the front. My question about cable guard position was related more to wether that bend should face up or down. The pro shop we have been using rotates them up every time we get the bows worked on, rather than down, as they came form the factory. I cant see the reason for this other than that it might make it easier for them to tie a center serving? In any case, even with the cable guard adjusted, center shot can not be obtained. I also eyeball the string alignment in addition to adjusting with the centershot guage. The bow is out of wack, either way you look at it, with the arrow resting off to the right and the rest adjusted to max left. The rest needs to come left another 1/16" or more to get to center. You can even see by linging up the string with the idler wheel that he has had to change the windage adjustment on his sights far off the the side to compensate for this and his groups have exploded since this happened. My bow by contrast,shoots beutifully, with the string ligning up with the cam, idler wheel, and the pins on my sight perfectly. Is there any reason to give merit to the theory that the bow shop may have bent his riser in the bow press? Or is it possible that the new strings are immproperly installed, or something in the eccentrics was screwed up when the strings were broken or during the course of the repair? It certainly seems like the shooting string itself is farther left wince he had the strings changed. He never had this problem with the stock strings before they broke.
I no longer have the strings that broke on my bow, but my dad has his. They broke in the same place on both bows. I would be happy to send them out for you to inspect, Lifer. I find it really suspicious that the strings failed in the exact same manner on two different bows with essentially the same specs, and would love nothing more than to find out why so that I can prevent it from ever happening again. I really appriciate your offer to take a look at them rather than blowing me off like the local pro shop.
I think this weekend we'll take a drive to another bow shop and let them take a look, see if they can figure anything out. Thanks again for all the help everyone!
Just a little thing but let's take a look at the cable guard rotation question. Since the cable guard enetrs the bow just above the nock point it would make sense that the best clearence for the vanes would be with the guard rotated downward. I have post on AT in the bow-tuning section about details. I only mention it because it is a perfect example of how something as apperantly meaningless as cable guard rotation can really be a factor.
Paul...again, I agree. Rotating the rod downward places it closest to the center of the bow, providing the most clearance with the least amount of side-pressure.
As for the centershot problem....you're right, SRF. Something is out of whack. I know you'd really prefer a solid answer right now, but I really hate to speculate. Allowing another dealer to examine it is an excellent idea. If all else fails, give us a call. Turn around time in our Service Dept. is 24-48 hours...tops, I promise. 509-529-2554.
As for the strings, if you don't mind sending them, I'd love to take a look and offer whatever insight they may offer. (Look for my PM). At this stage, I can't blame you for doubting the DynaCams...and we can't rule out any problem until we get to examine your strings,...but DynaCams have been in use on thousands of bows for several years of production now, with no inherent problems. Give us a chance to take care of the problem, and we will.
Dyna Cam string break
Hi, my Jaguar Dyna Cam string broke today in the same place as both the mentioned bows. The bow is about 10 months old and has only been used on average once a week. The string appears to have broken right at the peak of the cam module. Is there a problem with the string continually bending around the cam module at speed as that is how the bow is at rest or after each shot.
I would like to know if it was just bad luck or if I should change the cams to stop this happening again.
Dyna Cam string break
Hi, just had a thought, if the string is breaking over the module, does it depend on the module used. Do some of them have sharper peaks than others? I use the F-7 module and it has quite an acute profile.
I was at full draw aiming at the target when the bow exploded by my face. I don't want that to happen again.