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Thread: Bow Tuning -- Arrows Cocked to the Right

  1. #1
    JohnnyThunder
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    Default Bow Tuning -- Arrows Cocked to the Right

    I have my Saber sighted in pretty well now, shooting nice tight little groups, but now I notice that my arrows are consistently cocked to the right when I retrieve them from the target.

    What I mean is that if the target was at the top of the page, the arrow sticks into the target like this \ instead of like this |. The arrows are grouping in the right place, but if you saw the arrows in the target, you would think that I had shot them from a position 5-10 yards to my right.

    Is this anything to be concerned about, and does it indicate that some type of adjustment is in order ?

  2. #2
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Could be your arrow spine is off a bit. You can try doing some fine tuning. Don't take too much stock in the groupings and such. A bow can shoot really good groups even if it isn't tuned or even if the arrows aren't spined right. Arrows just might look so good getting to the target, which is hard to see at short ranges.

    Try adjusting the poundage up or down to see if they straighten out. You might also try a walk-back tune to check for centershot.
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  3. #3
    tood s
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    You need to paper tune your bow. Even though your getting good groups, your losing kinetic energy and speed which in turn increases your arrow trajectory. It could be as simple as moving your arrow rest to the right or left orrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, your arrow spine could be too weak or too stiff and you could change arrows or point weight or just change the poundage your bow is set at. The main thing is to paper tune your bow. Have you also checked your vanes to see if your getting clearance from your cables or your rest?

  4. #4
    JohnnyThunder
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    Could be your arrow spine is off a bit.
    Could you please explain what you mean ? I don't understand what that means.

  5. #5
    Senior Member alex's Avatar
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    The spine of the arrows responds to the bow poundage. It's a little complicated because the different arrow makers don't mark the same their arrows. For example my Gold Tip Vapor arrows are marked 300, so they are good for bows between 75 and 95# and they are too stiff for my MOAB set at 51-54#, so i must buy 400 or 450 (but can't because they aren't sold here ) The good news is that the arrow companies usually has charts for their arrows and it's relatively easy to choose the proper arrow spine if you know your bow's DW.
    2008 Martin MOAB - 45-60#, set at about 51-53# / 55#" Perfect Line" compound/ 55# Mongol horsebow/ 45# "Perfect Line" takedown recurve/ 45# Bearpaw Grizzly hunter recurve/ 55# Samick Longbow Cheetah ... and several homemade bows

  6. #6
    JohnnyThunder
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    OK then. Well I have two different varieties of arrows that I'm shooting. Carbon Force Radial X-Weave 300 and Red Head Carbon Fury 4560s. When I consult the pounds to spine chart on the arrow boxes, my bow weight is at the upper boundary of the range for each arrow.

    I don't suppose this makes a difference or not, but my bow is 60# max draw weight that I had turned down to 50#, and have been gradually turning it up by a half turn on each screw every couple of days since 60# was initially too much for me to pull and I was trying to slowly bulid my way back up to 60#. I think I'm currently near 55-56#.

    If the problem is with the arrow spine, if I bought 3-4 arrows stepped up to the next largest number on the chart and gave that a try would that be likely to find the problem ?

    And as to the suggestion that I check if the vanes were clearing the cables and rest, I'm fairly confident that the vanes are clearing the rest but I believe that my vanes are often contacting the cable. Unfortunately I see no way to adjust this, so the best I can do at the moment is shoot blazer vanes to minimize the problem. However I have this issue of arrows landing "cocked" to the right no matter if I shoot 4" or 2" blazer vanes.

    Other than sticking in the target cocked right, I think the bow is shooting pretty good. I seem to be pretty accurate with it anyway, but since I'm really just more or less an intermediate-beginner level archer I'm eager to learn if this is something that requires fixing or if it should just be ignored.

    Thanks for all the replys so far.

  7. #7
    tood s
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    You can turn you arrow nock to achieve the clearance you need for your vanes. I personally would take it to your proshop and ask for help in tuning you now.

  8. #8
    brushrat
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyThunder View Post
    OK then. Well I have two different varieties of arrows that I'm shooting. Carbon Force Radial X-Weave 300 and Red Head Carbon Fury 4560s. When I consult the pounds to spine chart on the arrow boxes, my bow weight is at the upper boundary of the range for each arrow.

    I don't suppose this makes a difference or not, but my bow is 60# max draw weight that I had turned down to 50#, and have been gradually turning it up by a half turn on each screw every couple of days since 60# was initially too much for me to pull and I was trying to slowly bulid my way back up to 60#. I think I'm currently near 55-56#.

    If the problem is with the arrow spine, if I bought 3-4 arrows stepped up to the next largest number on the chart and gave that a try would that be likely to find the problem ?

    And as to the suggestion that I check if the vanes were clearing the cables and rest, I'm fairly confident that the vanes are clearing the rest but I believe that my vanes are often contacting the cable. Unfortunately I see no way to adjust this, so the best I can do at the moment is shoot blazer vanes to minimize the problem. However I have this issue of arrows landing "cocked" to the right no matter if I shoot 4" or 2" blazer vanes.

    Other than sticking in the target cocked right, I think the bow is shooting pretty good. I seem to be pretty accurate with it anyway, but since I'm really just more or less an intermediate-beginner level archer I'm eager to learn if this is something that requires fixing or if it should just be ignored.

    Thanks for all the replys so far.
    good choice! half of archery is gaining knowledge, then applying it....... when you apply it and actually get the results you were looking for then that can be very gratifying. Even though it appears that you can group arrows in the center of the target, when or if you decide to shoot fixed blade broadheads you will be very dissapointed. Target arrows are self-correcting, broadheads are not. They have to come off the string with no porpoising or fishtailing. Anything less than that will cause you constant frustration.

  9. #9
    JohnnyThunder
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    Since you brought up broadheads, that reminds me of another question that I wanted to ask. Nearly every brand of broadhead that you can name uses languge to the effect of "field point accuracy", "flys just like fieldpoints", etc..

    Is any of that to be believed ? I sighted my bow in with 100 grain field points, and I intend to shoot 100 grain broad heads when hunting. I've tried 3 different brands of broad heads so far, no mechanicals or expandables just regular broadheads.

    It seems to me that while they are as accurate as the field points, they don't really fly like field points -- the arch is much more pronounced requiring me to use a lower pin than I would use with a field point.

    Is that a symptom of something that needs to be adjusted as well, or is it just something to be expected from shooting broadheads ?

  10. #10
    JohnnyThunder
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    Quote Originally Posted by tood s View Post
    You can turn you arrow nock to achieve the clearance you need for your vanes. I personally would take it to your proshop and ask for help in tuning you now.
    I'm not sure I can do that because I've already got the nock turned so that the colored vane is pointed down so as to go between the prongs on my arrow rest, if I turn it so as not to touch the cable then I'm going to be touching the rest instead.

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