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Thread: Going Low Prt II

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  1. #1

    Default Going Low Prt II

    Who thinks about how they draw the bow back?? Come On be honest, show me a raise of hands....
    If you don't you're giving up points big time or blowing a shot at the animal you have worked for all season.
    How you draw is just as important as any other part of the shot. I am sure you just figure you missed when one goes left or right on you. True you did miss but do you know why. I am willing to wager that if you were holding on the intended destination for the arrow and finished the shot and it still went astray it actually happened before you ever settled on the target.
    How you draw back will omitt or include certain muscles in the shot sequence. The bast way to get the right muscles going is to use them from the beginning of the shot. I mean the very beginning, when you are setting up to draw back.
    The muscles we want are all in the torso. They include the abbs and the upper back muscles. Now the question becomes how do we get those muscles involved? Let's look at this in very simple terms.
    When you fling a rubber band which way does it go in terms of the direction it was stretched? They usually travel in a straight line, at least until it lands on the intended target. So why would we not expect the same from our bow. The string will travel in a straight line from where it was held at full draw to it's place of rest.
    With that in mind why would we draw back in any other direstion other than directly in-line with the target. I see so many people draw back to the side and then settle into their anchor.
    This does many things and none of them are good. The least of the issues you just created is the useless motion you put in your draw cycle. A more critical issue is the torque you put in your bow hand when you moved the string into your face to find your normal anchor. Another problem is the potential for increased contact between your face and the string.
    The really big problem is....there is a very good chance you have the wrong muscles involved in the shot. Or, if you got lucky enough to still be using the right muscles they are pulling in the wrong direction. Because you pulled back to the side that is the direction your body wants to keep pulling on the follow through.
    I would suggest that you pull back straight to your anchor. Doing this will improve your chances of having everything going in the right direction. Ideally your arm should drop back in the exact opposite direction of the intnded target.
    If we were to watch your shot from behind your arm should drop back directly in line with the target. It should not drop to either side at any point. A good mental image is to picture pulling straight through the shot.
    As I have explained this starts at the very beginning of the draw cycle. At the very beginning when you are looking down range "reach" toward the target with your drawing shoulder. When you are ready to draw the bow simply turn that shoulder away from the target and keep your rerlease hand coming straight back to your anchor. This is more easily accomplished by drawing with your elbow high. You will want the elbow to be high when you anchor, why not start with it there.
    I have a good friend I coach who insists on drawing back and then he makes two additional moves. He brings his release into his face and raises his elbow after he draws the bow. I was pestering him pretty bad the other evening during practice but by the end of the evening he was shooting 5 arrow groups that were under 2" at 25yds. If it hadn't been for him using Uni-Bushings it would have been a very expensive evening.
    I hope this will help some of you get rid of your left and right misses. There is no secret to shooting great scores. It is a simple matter of following a basic, sound shot sequence and repeating it. The little things mean so much and are so often over looked.

    Good Luck, Paul
    Last edited by PLASTIC PAUL; 05-27-2006 at 09:24 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Help me all you Pro's out there!

    I want what you've been drinking!

    Very good information............and very technical!

    So, can you help me on my question that no one else has been able to up to now! No one has posted in response? I've noticed you shoot on your cables.

    What's the best material for strings for Martin Compounds, and how many strands for a Martin Ocelot?

    I wish if one day I'll be able to shoot half as good as the members on here! I've not shot in 15 year's, and last time I did was recurve shooting (although to quite a high standard!) I've just purcashed said compound and need plenty of help!!!!! I'm pretty alright at archery, but new to compound shooting, Help??????????????????????????? Especially being from the UK!

  3. #3


    Thanks for the kind words. I can't believe nobody wanted to help you out. Any top quality string material will work well. I am using 452X for my strings and cables. For the main string I recomend 24 strands with a .021 center serving material, with a tag run underneath. This will fit very well with most better nocks. For your cables, go with 20 starnds if you are using two cables and 12-20 if you are using 4 cables.

    I hope that helps, Paul

  4. #4


    Cheers Paul, I've had a look for the 452X (as i've never heard of it before), and it is available here in the UK which is great (although nearly 40 a spool!).

    Next question! Can you offer any assistance on which cable chart I should be using as I need to know the lengths for the main shooting string and split cables?

    Lastly, looking at the split cables they look to be be of un-equal length where they split to the axle's. Is this true or just an illusion due to the angle from the Cam module being offset from centre?

    Thanks again, and thanks for the previous info it's much appreciated.

    I phoned up one of the recommended Martin dealers in the UK the other day, and they didn't want to know about supplying me with new cables, they where very unhelpful. Hence the questions............!

  5. #5


    It is worth every penny or pound in your case....How much string building experience do you have ? There are a couple of ways to get the lengths you need. The best way is a chart but in the absence of a chart you should take the strings off the bow and measure them as they are (do not untwist them). If that is not possible use a piece of string to get the ends and then compare the string to a tape measure.

    I will do some looking and see if i can get the lengths for you.

  6. #6


    I used to make my own strings for my recurve (Peris Whitehheart). Like I said, it's been a while! I've no problems with the making of the main string, once I know the spec's of it but I was a bit unsure about the split cables. One because they are split and two because the split lengths look un-equal although they probably aren't.......

  7. #7


    Good Info Paul!!!!

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