Quote Originally Posted by golfisserious View Post
I am not an expert, I wanna say that right off, but bare shaft tuning... from what I have read, is mainly the best way to tune a bow for a "Fingers" shooter... as for a release shooter, vertical align after you plumb bob you rest to your knock point so both are in perfectly at right angles to each other... I.E.... your shoot string is perfectly straight up down... and your arrow is perfectly level horizontal in relationship to string. Then plumb bob a line, off your knock pt and make sure your rest is perfectly centered for that plumb bob line, when the string is parrallel (horizontally orientated).... then knock arrow, then split your arrow shaft with string, using one eye... and put your sites dead in line with string that is splitting arrow ALL THE WAY TO THE TIP...then shoot 6 arrows on a horizontal 1/2" wide black line... use some tape and put a marker to it... so you have a good target...chase arrow with sight until all six are in, or on that 1/2" line... don't cheat...

then using a tape measure... make sure that your string is even and exact distance...measure outside or inside string edge (not "middle"), adjust bottom limb bolt out until both measurements are the exact same, measure to where the limb meets the riser to the string, top and bottom... then draw a 1/2" wide line horizontally... shoot 6 arrows...adjusting sight till you are hitting line, then adjust the bottom limb 1/8 turn tighter at a time until your groupings are all in or on the line...

try it at 20yds after that... if you are shooting release leave the bareshaft and paper tuning alone... you can shoot a perfectly straight hole through a piece of paper at a 45* angle... if you don't believe me shoot it with any gun you have... it will leave a perfectly round hole no matter what angle you shoot from...

different broadheads have many different flight characteristics... a quality broadhead will group as tightly as your field pts... it just might be in a different area... typically most guys broadheads are different lengths than their field pts... and it changes the flight characteristics of your arrow, get a practice pt that is same length...

I shoot muzzy phantom broadheads, but use rage practice pts... they are nice and long like my broadheads...

but won't ever try killing a whitetail with an expandable ever again...I put one in the boilermaker this year at 28 yards and it stopped short of passing through after trying to break the exit rib...very lucky to collect a whitetail without a pass through one is...double lung 2nd year buck and it ran uphill, through a field with barely a blood trail still it started drowning... luckily I had a lighted knock on the arrow... sorry didn't mean to rant... rage broadheads suck...they themselves admitted it by making the "40KE" model
yea...i gave up the bare shaft thing. The guys that use this technique and have the perfect form to get credible results..... i say go for it! For me i did almost the exact procedure you mentioned till i got within 1/2-3/4" from verticle and horizontal then brought out the fixed blades. With a minor amount of tweaking i got them to group with my field points except about 3" low. I said good enough, i can remember to hold 3" up.

I tryed Grim reaper mechanicals years ago but had 2 pretty serious problems. One, was that they are illegel to hunt with in the state of oregon and number2 they didn't deploy properly at my draw weight ,which was only 53# and even less now. In a sick sort of way ....i like fiddeling and tweaking with the fixed blades which gives great satisfaction when everything comes together and they start shooting like target points. It can be the ultimat challenge.