roto cup problem

[kste73]

my new nemesis cracked a limb right where the rotocup pads touch the limb because the pads were kept at a angle that put there edges against the limb,the roto do not rotate at all(are they supposed to). Got the new limbs and can not get the pads to sit against the limb without pushing the edge into the limb,plus the rotocups were almost welded to the riser had to almost pry them off. Ive had camo bows get a little stuck but never a target color. Please help!

[bfisher]

Yes, the Roto cups are supposed to rotate with the limb as they limb changes angle on the riser. That's where they get their name; ROTO (meaning rotate). You should probably take this back to your dealer and see if the two of you can figure out just what's making it hang up. Probably a complete disassembly and try to rotate the cup by hand. Maybe use some machine bluing on the rocker portion to see if there is a high spot in the riser finish making it stick.

[kste73]

the pro shop found extra paint had made its way into pocket and binding the cup but they do not deal with target bows and didnt think there was a problem with the finish

[bfisher]

the pro shop found extra paint had made its way into pocket and binding the cup but they do not deal with target bows and didnt think there was a problem with the finish

I don't get it. The difference between a target bow and a hunting bow is the color. The target riser is powder coated. The hunting riser is film dipped---or powder coated in the case of a black riser.. Other than that there is no difference.

[kste73]

The riser is the purple/green chromallusion and is a paint not powdercoat! Its a urethane based paint.

[bfisher]

OK, here's what I would do. I would take the bow apart and clean the center pin that keeps the Rot cup centered. Do the same with the groove in the Roto cup. Then put some white lithium grease in the rocker area that the cup rotates on. Then set the Roto cup in place and see if it rotates in place without much effort. If it does then reassemble the bow and make sure they rotate with limb pressure on them.

I had a similar problem with my FireCat when I upgraded it from 2008 parts to the 2010 parts. I didn't use the grease on mine. It's something I just thought of. Now I need to do mine just to be on the safe side.

I'm not guaranteeing that it'll work, but it's worth a shot (pun???).

I'm also throwing the idea around of eliminating those two buttons altogether and using a soft flat pad between the cup and the limb. Something like the soft half of a piece of velcro. This would give a cushioned, flat surface for the limb to sit on. Ain't it sick the things some of us come up with?

[kste73]

along the edge of the riser the finish dripped over the edge making the tolerence to tight , I removed the excess paint from the riser and a small burr in the riser i filed out . greased and definetly better than new. I do agree the 2 round pads may not be a good idea the outer layer cracked in a halfmoon at the back side of it then spit each side back from there . was supprised to see there was no lube used in assembly at all !!

[Montalaar]

I'm also throwing the idea around of eliminating those two buttons altogether and using a soft flat pad between the cup and the limb. Something like the soft half of a piece of velcro. This would give a cushioned, flat surface for the limb to sit on. Ain't it sick the things some of us come up with?

I had the same idea. I am not sure why they need to sit on those two buttons? It would be much less stress on the limb with a pad instead of two buttons..

[bfisher]

I had the same idea. I am not sure why they need to sit on those two buttons? It would be much less stress on the limb with a pad instead of two buttons..

You think like I do on a lot of things. Yeah, I think using a pad of sorts would distribute the stress over a larger area and eliminate what I'll call a Hot-spot.