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Thread: help!

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  1. #1
    Tom Ainsworth
    Guest

    Unhappy help!

    I just bought a 2003 model Tracer LT from Dick's. I am having trouble setting it up. I had them paper tune it at 15 yards - but when I went home I could not get the flight good from 20 yards and out. We noticed that the arrow seemed to be kicking - so I moved the separator bar out more to create more clearance. When the smoke cleared at 11:30 PM last night, I was adjusting the tension on the fork rest - re-alighned the tru-nok, bla-bla-bla!...I wish I knew what I was doing. Can someone please give me the basics and straighten me out - I have to hunt this afternoon - I want a 4" group at 20 yards at worst. The bow is a single CAM Fuzion. Perhaps the smallest bow I have ever held in my hand - I love it - but need help ASAP in setting it up - the basics - I mean the very basic basics...get the crayons out!

    Left Handed
    70lbs
    27" draw
    31" Easton Stalker with 5" fletch
    100 grain field point
    Shockwave 100 Broadhead

    thanks in advance...
    Last edited by Tom Ainsworth; 10-12-2006 at 12:32 PM.

  2. #2
    dgmeadows
    Guest

    Default Need more info...

    Is the bow set at the max 70 lb weight setting ?

    Fingers or mechanical release ?

    What size are the arrows ?(there should be some numbers on them, like 2413, or 2117, or something like that.)

    Do you have any way to cut the arrows ?- 31" is basically a full length shaft. Even if the spine numbers are correct, the extra length & weight could be throwing things out of whack

    First, return the cable guard back to minimum clearance - you only need 1/16 of an inch between vane and cables. You should only adjust this if you know you have contact problems. Adding clearance also adds cam lean - on a short, one cam bow, you could actually pull the string out of the track by over-adjusting the cable guard.

    Give us a little more info and maybe we can help (although I must warn you I do not shoot single cams myself - only Martin Fury & Nitrous two cams.)

    Darren

  3. #3
    Tom Ainsworth
    Guest

    Default more info...

    Easton Stalker 2219
    31"
    Tru-Fire Mechanical Release

    the bow ranges from 55-70#

    Martin Tech support informaed me that I could crank it higher if I want - I have to leave some space however for the limbs to breath - - with that said, I do not wish to go any higher - the 70 # is perfect...

  4. #4
    WR_Orion
    Guest

    Default

    Is the problem that you are unable to group your broadheads with your field points or just can't get a good group at all?

    If you can't group at all, I'd guess one of two things. 1. Either there is a clearance problem and the vanes are hitting either your cables (which you've already adjusted for) or your rest. OR It's something that you are doing wrong ie torqueing the grip etc. Don't take that the wrong way, I have no idea if you are an experienced shooter with a new bow or a novice.

    If you are just unable to group your broadheads with your field points, then I would refer you to the Easton Tuning Guide. That will run you through steps to tune your broadheads to hit like field points. It can be found and downloaded here--->http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads.asp

    Hope you're able to get it shooting straight before you decide to go hunting. Best of luck.

  5. #5
    dgmeadows
    Guest

    Default Here's some suggestions...

    I am not sure what you mean by leaving the "limbs some room to breathe" ? All bows operate most efficiently (and generally more quietly) at the max setting, which means with the limb bolts turned all the way down tight (don't get out a torque wrench, off course, but just hand tighten all the way.) If you are shooting with the bolts backed out more than one turn, you could be at 65# or lower, which would affect the arrow spine issues I am about to look at.

    Per the Easton charts, for 70 lbs, one cam, 2219 shafts with 100 grain heads would be within acceptable spine at 29" length, the charts do not show 2219 as appropriate at 31" length, so if you are going to stick with those arrows, you may want to trim them down some to get in the optimal spine range. Personally, those arrows are WAY heavier than I would want to use for most game. Your total grain weight is going to be over 500 grains. If you are going to shoot BIG game, like bears, moose, etc., that might be OK, but your arrow drop beyond 20 yards will be significant, so knowing the distance to your target will be much more critical with these heavy arrows. I shoot 70 lb 2 cam bows, and use Easton carbon arrows at 400 spine, at about 375 grains total weight.

    Back to your tuning issue. The extra long arrows could be one part of it, so I would at least trim those down. You mentioned a "fork rest", I assume that is a TM Hunter style - You also mention 5" fletchings. Whether helical or offset straight, it will be virtually impossible to get good vane clearance with 5" fletching and a fork type arrow rest. There's just too much vane surface to thread between the forks. You might be able to tune the spring tension down a good bit to minimize the influence, but getting perfect clearance will be tough.

    My honest, personal advice is to get some shorter, lighter arrows (maybe in the 2314 or 2413 aluminums, cut an inch longer than the front of your rest at full draw) with shorter - say 3 to 4 inch straight vanes. Your front of center balance with 100 grain heads will be much better, your arrow speed will be much higher, and the arrow diameter will be a tad larger, but with smaller vanes to help get better clearance. These arrows and a good drop away or full-containment rest would really help eliminate arrow or rest induced tuning problems. You'd still have to make sure the cables aren't touching, and you're not torquing the bow, of course, but these would be my suggested first steps.

    I am sure there are plenty of folks that would argue that a heavy arrow is always better, but I think yours are too heavy & too long, and likely part of the problem.

    Good luck,

    Darren

  6. #6
    x-cutter
    Guest

    Default

    Maybe Im overlooking the broadhead brand by skimming through this, but that very well could be a problem! I am not putting any brand names down, just stating some broadheads fly better and flatter than others. I would not change arrows either, as this could get very expensive for the common working man! I would try a fixed 4 blade broadhead maybe 125 gr. muzzy would be a good choice. The heaver broadhead will help the heaver arrow to fly straighter! this will slow the arrow just a little but also give more bone crushing knetic energy.

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