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Thread: Best Tuning Thread Ever

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  1. #1
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    Default Best Tuning Thread Ever

    Just thought to pass this along since its from the sister site Archery Talkj.If any one wants to learn bow tuning that even a cave man can understad.Check out in General archery discussin sticky:Poll New To Bow Tuning Looking for guidelines this has got more info that is amazing I know lots of you guys Know Nuts and Bolts check out what he has to say if you cant learn anything about bow tuning from this thread give up archery.

  2. #2
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    Sure hope Alan is still going to publish it all in a book!

  3. #3
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    Default Site

    Please post the complete site address. I can't seem to find doing a search.
    Thanks

  4. #4
    RobD
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod26 View Post
    Please post the complete site address. I can't seem to find doing a search.
    Thanks
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/index.php

  5. #5
    SonnyThomas
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    Default Best Tuning Thread Ever

    I watched the now Sticky develope. There are so many replies that it takes a bit to get through.

  6. #6
    SonnyThomas
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    Default Best Tuning Thread Ever

    I did a flash through of the replies. Some I've read a long time ago. Of Javi's Draw stop timing for Hoyts, I've been doing that for some time. I even spoke with Javi. We had a long conversation. Super great guy and coach.

    In case I ramble on and forget, the thread is a good one. Is a new bow tuning book needed? You bet. What books are available seem from years back and readily seen are bows from the same years back.

    I think I have put the following link up before. You have to register just like any site, like this one. Lot's of info here. www.dudleyarchery.info.

    No one should be intimidated with what is there. I noticed one comment about some paying $16.00 for having his strings put and no way the bow mechanic could do all that nuts&bolts had related of. Well, some of what nuts&bolts has just comes without thought. Okay, you do it enough and you just do it. When problems arise then time and effort coming into being. It can be intimidating and frustrating. Other things within nuts&bolts bow tuning is not necessarily necessary. It depends upon how deep you want to tune your bow. I've some bows that are just put together and well get the job done. I have other bows where I got really, really finicky. Bow where I wanted it, I finished it off with French tuning and then played with nock and vertical rest setting to see if groups could be tightened. The Dudley site had this.

    Note; The first time I used French tuning I went on take Champion in Senior Adult Free Style in my first ever IAA State Field Championship. Okay, I got lucky, but then cleaning the 80 yard Walk Up sure made me feel good. 5 inch bull's eye from 80, 70, 60 and 50 yards. Yep, me felt real good.

    I did like the example of the used bow, draw length too long. I may not have read it fully enough to say something is missing, but different cams systems come into play. You can't just twist up the bow string and make the draw length shorter. Shortening the draw length is actually rotating the cam or cams. You rotate the cams and the draw stops hit sooner. Here, say a one of the double cam bows, you need to twist the bow string X amount and untwist the buss and control cable. I've done this with the help of M&R Strings. I needed to shorten a bow by almost 2 inches. According to M&R, double cam bows, 4 full twists of the bow string requires the cables to be untwisted 1 full twist. Here, I maintained ata and draw weight and reduce the draw length. We then took measurements of the strings and had a set made to correct needed length with proper amount of twists.

    Note; There have been some threads on how to get more out of your bow. Caution is needed with these and using your brain. I once tried the "make your Pearson go faster." I followed the instructions, even had a Pearson staff shooter present. Yep, sure made the Z34 Pearson faster, but then draw weight went up! Duh?!!! The staff shooter went back to the "think tank." I never heard another word about this "make it go faster" method.

    Today I just about wrecked a bow and myself with it. Right now I'm still ticked off (I would really like to use a more profane word or words). Bow is brought to me for new strings. Okay order and delivery time. Strings finally arrive and then I get a call wanting a "rush job" on the bow. Well, pardon me. That #%@* should have thought about his bow well before deer season. Anyway, I jump on the bow. Strings on, top wheel lean corrected. Uses of levels to set up the bow and I was pretty much done. No problems. Next, I put on new tubing for his peep. So I check to be sure the tubing is not over stressed. Okay, you want the tubing long enough it is not overly stressed, but short enough that it aligns the peep. I hook on the "S" hook hanging from the ceiling and draw down the bow. Wham! What the H___! Did one on the strings slip out of it's groove? I let up real easy and the bow doesn't really respond. Finally, it starts to let down. I look things over, find nothing and try again. Same #@# thing. Whoa?!!! Now what, no wall to speak of, spongy to beat the band. I let up and again have to wait for the bow to respond, let down. Okay, it's a Fred Bear bow, a bow make that I normally don't work on. I have a used Fred Bear, a lefty. I start comparing. Lo and behold, no draw stop module! Yes, module. It bolts in place like a draw length module. Imagine drawing a bow and then at the normal drop off into the valley you drop off into nothing, nearly 100% letoff. Disgusted, I start to look over the buss cable. It's got a kink in it from the sharp edge where the module is to butt up to. Had I pulled any harder I could have cut the cable into AND right in my face.

    Rambled on enough...more than enough. Again, nuts&bolts has a lot of good info there. Use it to help you, not give you headaches.

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