Best Tuning Thread Ever

[madlaz]

Just thought to pass this along since its from the sister site Archery Talkj.If any one wants to learn bow tuning that even a cave man can understad.Check out in General archery discussin sticky:Poll New To Bow Tuning Looking for guidelines this has got more info that is amazing I know lots of you guys Know Nuts and Bolts check out what he has to say if you cant learn anything about bow tuning from this thread give up archery.

[Spiker]

Sure hope Alan is still going to publish it all in a book!

[hotrod26]

Please post the complete site address. I can't seem to find doing a search.
Thanks

[RobD]

Please post the complete site address. I can't seem to find doing a search.
Thanks

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/index.php

[SonnyThomas]

I watched the now Sticky develope. There are so many replies that it takes a bit to get through.

[SonnyThomas]

I did a flash through of the replies. Some I've read a long time ago. Of Javi's Draw stop timing for Hoyts, I've been doing that for some time. I even spoke with Javi. We had a long conversation. Super great guy and coach.

In case I ramble on and forget, the thread is a good one. Is a new bow tuning book needed? You bet. What books are available seem from years back and readily seen are bows from the same years back.

I think I have put the following link up before. You have to register just like any site, like this one. Lot's of info here. www.dudleyarchery.info.

No one should be intimidated with what is there. I noticed one comment about some paying $16.00 for having his strings put and no way the bow mechanic could do all that nuts&bolts had related of. Well, some of what nuts&bolts has just comes without thought. Okay, you do it enough and you just do it. When problems arise then time and effort coming into being. It can be intimidating and frustrating. Other things within nuts&bolts bow tuning is not necessarily necessary. It depends upon how deep you want to tune your bow. I've some bows that are just put together and well get the job done. I have other bows where I got really, really finicky. Bow where I wanted it, I finished it off with French tuning and then played with nock and vertical rest setting to see if groups could be tightened. The Dudley site had this.

Note; The first time I used French tuning I went on take Champion in Senior Adult Free Style in my first ever IAA State Field Championship. Okay, I got lucky, but then cleaning the 80 yard Walk Up sure made me feel good. 5 inch bull's eye from 80, 70, 60 and 50 yards. Yep, me felt real good.

I did like the example of the used bow, draw length too long. I may not have read it fully enough to say something is missing, but different cams systems come into play. You can't just twist up the bow string and make the draw length shorter. Shortening the draw length is actually rotating the cam or cams. You rotate the cams and the draw stops hit sooner. Here, say a one of the double cam bows, you need to twist the bow string X amount and untwist the buss and control cable. I've done this with the help of M&R Strings. I needed to shorten a bow by almost 2 inches. According to M&R, double cam bows, 4 full twists of the bow string requires the cables to be untwisted 1 full twist. Here, I maintained ata and draw weight and reduce the draw length. We then took measurements of the strings and had a set made to correct needed length with proper amount of twists.

Note; There have been some threads on how to get more out of your bow. Caution is needed with these and using your brain. I once tried the "make your Pearson go faster." I followed the instructions, even had a Pearson staff shooter present. Yep, sure made the Z34 Pearson faster, but then draw weight went up! Duh?!!! The staff shooter went back to the "think tank." I never heard another word about this "make it go faster" method.

Today I just about wrecked a bow and myself with it. Right now I'm still ticked off (I would really like to use a more profane word or words). Bow is brought to me for new strings. Okay order and delivery time. Strings finally arrive and then I get a call wanting a "rush job" on the bow. Well, pardon me. That #%@* should have thought about his bow well before deer season. Anyway, I jump on the bow. Strings on, top wheel lean corrected. Uses of levels to set up the bow and I was pretty much done. No problems. Next, I put on new tubing for his peep. So I check to be sure the tubing is not over stressed. Okay, you want the tubing long enough it is not overly stressed, but short enough that it aligns the peep. I hook on the "S" hook hanging from the ceiling and draw down the bow. Wham! What the H___! Did one on the strings slip out of it's groove? I let up real easy and the bow doesn't really respond. Finally, it starts to let down. I look things over, find nothing and try again. Same #@# thing. Whoa?!!! Now what, no wall to speak of, spongy to beat the band. I let up and again have to wait for the bow to respond, let down. Okay, it's a Fred Bear bow, a bow make that I normally don't work on. I have a used Fred Bear, a lefty. I start comparing. Lo and behold, no draw stop module! Yes, module. It bolts in place like a draw length module. Imagine drawing a bow and then at the normal drop off into the valley you drop off into nothing, nearly 100% letoff. Disgusted, I start to look over the buss cable. It's got a kink in it from the sharp edge where the module is to butt up to. Had I pulled any harder I could have cut the cable into AND right in my face.

Rambled on enough...more than enough. Again, nuts&bolts has a lot of good info there. Use it to help you, not give you headaches.

[madlaz]

Sonny you can get the pdf file or word document for that thread ask Tim for it then you donot have to go through all the threads then you can even print it out its great and is free.

[madlaz]

Sonny the thread i mentioned was to answer the most basic questions but i have read a lot of your threads and i know you are an expert tuner and archer you probably forgot more than most learn . keep up the good threads i have learned a lot from you also thanks .Laz

[SonnyThomas]

Sonny the thread i mentioned was to answer the most basic questions but i have read a lot of your threads and i know you are an expert tuner and archer you probably forgot more than most learn . keep up the good threads i have learned a lot from you also thanks .Laz

I wish I could say that. There are days when the world is nothing but black, trip over a shadow on the ground. Oh yeah, I get up, shoot a few warm ups and the next I know I can't the broad side of a barn with me on the inside.

Yeah, and if shooting a national event you have to have 35 yards down pat. Those practice areas at the nationals. Well, they are good for only one thing, warming up. Like If you're not "on" before you get to a big event you're not going to "get on" practicing there. Rarely do I use the practice area. Stretching, surgical tubing works. Seeing the shot in your mind works.

Tuning? Tuning is nothing but following the manual and then learning a few tricks along the way. With the proper equipment on hand taking apart and putting a bow together is a piece of cake. Again, once you begin working on bows a lot of things get so easy you do it without thinking.

Tuning? I have shake my head at times. People worry about changing stuff in the midst of deer hunting, even put it off, live with a problem until after deer season. I developed a shoulder problem and then fell on the same shoulder this last week. Saturday morning a deer came in and I could barely get to full draw. Of course the shot goes to H__ in a hand basket. What to do? Turn down the draw weight, about 5 pounds, maybe 10 fps loss and no big deal. What happens? Arrow ain't behaving. 20 minutes later the corrective adjustment is in place, just a tweak of the arrow rest. Another 20 minutes and I have figured out the flight of my arrow for my single pin setup. Yes, a single fixed pin and good out to 35 yards. I test my fixed broadhead and it is pin point deadly.

[justin]

exactly sonny..... tinkering isnt too hard alot of times