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Thread: warthog specs

  1. #1
    motley
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    Default warthog specs

    09 warthog....the spec chart says 6 1/4 BH....35ATA....just got mine in and it is

    6 1/8 BH
    34 1/4ATA
    cables are twisted up so they almost touch the anchor post.....what do i need to do to get it back closer to spec...draw is set on 30....thanks for any help i can get....

  2. #2
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    Untwist the cables and the string to get a higher AtA and BH. If you remove the same amount of twists out of both the cam rotation will stay the same. If you remove twists out of the cables the cam will advance a bit.
    (2) Hoyt PCEXL

  3. #3
    RobD
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    Quote Originally Posted by motley View Post
    09 warthog....the spec chart says 6 1/4 BH....35ATA....just got mine in and it is

    6 1/8 BH
    34 1/4ATA
    cables are twisted up so they almost touch the anchor post.....what do i need to do to get it back closer to spec...draw is set on 30....thanks for any help i can get....
    Someone has the cams wrapped up to achieve optimum speed. It also removes most of the hump You can leave it if you want to. I would personally. If it set up like im thinking. You will lose about 9-11 fps if you untwist the cables.

    Two get the drawlength to 30 inches you have modules that have the numbers 8 and 9 If you decide to leave cam adjusted as is, then you will be using the 9 for 30 DL.If you untwist the cables and bring it to specs, then you will be using the 8

    here's a couple links about cat cam setting
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...ferrerid=22477
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601

    Hope it helps
    Last edited by RobD; 11-09-2010 at 03:52 PM.

  4. #4
    RobD
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    With the cams adjusted as is. the bow will max out past recommended Draw weight. So don't just crank limb bolt down and think its at 70 or 60 what ever your bow max DW is. Because you will end up cracking a limb most likely. Us a scale if you try to adjust Draw weight. Most likely who ever adjusted your bow knew that [HOPEFULLY} And did not bottom limb bolts out.

    The limbs should be off the riser somewhere 1/2 - 3/4 inch.

  5. #5
    motley
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    about ready to give up....getting frustrated..

  6. #6
    RobD
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    Quote Originally Posted by motley View Post
    about ready to give up....getting frustrated..
    Whats wrong?
    Did you browse the links I gave you.
    My cams are adjusted like yours are. I love it. I gain 8 FPS and no hump in draw cycle.
    Last edited by RobD; 11-09-2010 at 04:41 PM.

  7. #7
    motley
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    ata now 34 1/2 but bh dropped to 6 inches.....

  8. #8
    RobD
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    This is a great sight it will explain everything +
    http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by motley View Post
    ata now 34 1/2 but bh dropped to 6 inches.....
    Yeah, i gave you the wrong information. A longer ATA leads often times to a shorter BH. You can change the BH by rotating your cams.

    I think it is way more useful to get the AtA spot on and tune the draw cycle and right draw length out of it. Don't worry about the BH then..
    (2) Hoyt PCEXL

  10. #10
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    Since you have already been twisting things about, I would just start from the begining to get it within factory specs.
    First you will need a way to put tension on the string/cables. You can use a 1/4" hook in the ceiling to hang the string from and then attach a weight to the other end, you can put a 1/4" post on one end of a work bench - attach a rachetstrap to the other end hooked to your bow scale and then attached with a turn buckle to the string, there are several ways to do it. The point is that you need to put 75#-100# of 'stretch' on the string. 100# is ideal.
    Okay - now remove one cable from the bow and set it up in your 'jig'.
    Measure it from the inside of one loop to the inside of the other loop. (with the tension on it)
    Twist or untwist it until it is at the factory length spec.
    Now, making sure you dont change the twists, put it back on the bow.
    Repeat this with the other cable and then the string.
    When it is back together with the cables/string set at factory lengths - the ATA, BH, DL and max poundage should be very close to factory specs with the limbs bottomed out.
    Now check the cam timing. You may have to take a half or full twist out of one cable and/or add a half/full twist to the other cable to get the cams to stop rotation at the same time.
    Okay - now set your draw stop so you get the length and letoff that feels best to you.
    Now go shoot some stuff.
    With the CAT cams, having them wrapped up tight (cable 1/8"-1/16" from post) will give ultimate speed but will throw the other specs a bit off from what factory specs are. No big deal.
    Having the bow at the factory specs may drop the speed a bit but - no big deal.
    As long as specs are not way off, cams are in time with each other and max draw weight is not more than about 3lbs over - the bow will be fine and will shoot as good as you can shoot it.
    As someone else mentioned - if you do wrap things up and the draw weight is way over its rating - be sure to back the limb bolts out so it is only at max poundage.
    ...just my two cents...

    Also - always a good idea to take pics or make drawings of how everything is routed before you start.

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