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Thread: martin warthog

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    Default martin warthog

    I have a warthog that i sent to martin back in the spring for some tuning they did a pretty god job it was a lot better then it was in shooting 312 with 385 grain arrow at 70lbs with 29" draw.still i think a little slow but OK.now after deer season I shot it through the crono and was only getting 285-290.with same set up .I then turned it down to 60lbs and a 300grain arrow and am still only getting 300 out of it which i may be wrong but still sounds slow to me.I called Joel and all he could tell me is i need to make sure the cams are perfectly timed buy letting some one pull it back or a draw board. my dealer has looked at it and said that my cables are going across my mods in the same place by looking at the screw holes so it should be alright. I have now problems with them and trust them to do anything.but am wondering if any one has pics of what they should look like at full draw or at rest. also my string is bare except for a kisser,D-loop,and that's it.

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    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cridertj View Post
    I have a warthog that i sent to martin back in the spring for some tuning they did a pretty god job it was a lot better then it was in shooting 312 with 385 grain arrow at 70lbs with 29" draw.still i think a little slow but OK.now after deer season I shot it through the crono and was only getting 285-290.with same set up .I then turned it down to 60lbs and a 300grain arrow and am still only getting 300 out of it which i may be wrong but still sounds slow to me.I called Joel and all he could tell me is i need to make sure the cams are perfectly timed buy letting some one pull it back or a draw board. my dealer has looked at it and said that my cables are going across my mods in the same place by looking at the screw holes so it should be alright. I have now problems with them and trust them to do anything.but am wondering if any one has pics of what they should look like at full draw or at rest. also my string is bare except for a kisser,D-loop,and that's it.
    Are the original string and cables still on it? If you have a lot of shots on them, they will have stretched . This will put the cams in a different location. Even if they are still in sync. Also taking pounds of the limbs will change the position as well. Most mark the cams to keep the same shooting position. The string length and cable length need to be the proper length.


    Hutch
    Last edited by Hutch~n~Son Archery; 01-17-2011 at 05:08 PM.
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    they are not the original strings but the same ones that were on it whene martin had it

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    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    They need to be twisted or untwisted to the original length. If they are not the cams can be to far forward or backwards. Throwing the speed off. Once you get it back into to sync, I recommend to mark the cams to make sure you know where the sweet spot is.

    Hutch
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    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...cat+cam+tuning
    Here is a pretty good link for tuning the Cat Cams, quite a bit of good info and tips.

    Advantage Custom Strings

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    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by archerx7 View Post
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...cat+cam+tuning
    Here is a pretty good link for tuning the Cat Cams, quite a bit of good info and tips.
    Thanks I forgot about that link. Thanks for watching my back!

    Hutch
    Last edited by Hutch~n~Son Archery; 01-17-2011 at 05:45 PM.
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    As said, the cables and string should be measured and adjusted to the correct lengths.
    Also - if I read your post right, the shop looked at the cams and how the cables cross them. How they look at rest does not mean that they are in time.
    The bow needs to be held at full draw and you need to make sure that the cables are coming off both the modules at the exact same point.
    Here is a link to a whole bunch of info and pics about the CAT cams:
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...dvice+settings

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    Okay - way slow on the draw...

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    Measure your draw length and draw weight.

    If they really are, what you think they are, remove the string stop (STS).

    The STS negates the benefit of the speed nocks. You are better off without one or the other.

    The C.A.T. cams only make IBO if you set the mod higher than the DL it is "supposed" to be, and cut the DL down by adjusting the draw stop and reducing the valley and let-off below 65%.

    That's just the way they are. They aren't Martin's most efficient cam.

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    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    lol at least you tried spiker lol
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
    Martin cougarIII elite nitrous C cam X system & HHA
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