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Thread: How far is too far for moving centershot and nocking point when broadhead tuning

  1. #1
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    Default How far is too far for moving centershot and nocking point when broadhead tuning

    been messing with my Onza trying to get some 10 grain thunderheads to shoot the same as the field points...turns out 400 spined arrows at 28" put he broadhead to the right and if I moved the rest really far to the right(should be left), I got some good results...yet this can't possibly corrrect as its no way lined up with the string at this point.

    next i swithed to a 29" 350 spine and reset the centershot....arrows ends up in the center, but this time is high with the broadhead....dropping the rest down pretty far seemed to get good results but once again there's no way that could be correct as the nocking point was 3/8" above level and the vanes looked as they could hit the self....however, did notice my arrow wasnt level with the berger holes, so I reset the rest and will start over.

    question is.how far should you move the rest from centerline before you decide the arrow is not spined right?

  2. #2
    Senior Member bfisher's Avatar
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    What's the bow's draw weight? Measure from the sight window and tell what center shot is set to. Also, what rest?
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    the bow is at 60 lbs and i am shooting the GWS drop away rest (http://www.lancasterarchery.com/gws-...st.html)...the centershot is set inline with the string at this point by eyeballing it at the top cam

  4. #4
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default How far is too far for moving centershot and nocking point when broadhead tuning

    For what you have given either arrow should give good results.

    First, being center shot is critical. Just because your field points are grouping well doesn't mean your bow is set for center shot. So paper tuning and/or Walk Back tuning is needed. If good then try broadhead tuning.

    Field points first for group impact. Then broadheads for group impact. Most all instructions give move the rest a tiny bit and shoot again. A tiny bit is a tiny bit. The cellophane on a pack of cigarettes is tiny enough, about .001". Many people move the rest a bunch and get results that are false.

    And not all agree that broadhead tuning is the best. If my broadheads fly good out to my max distance that's all that matters and I set my sights accordingly. And then my hunting bow is just that, for hunting. I have other bows for paper and 3D.

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    Set the rest so the arrow is inline with the rest mount holes when the rest is all the way up.
    Set the nock point on the string so the arrow is level (square) or just a hair high (1/16").
    Set the centershot so the center of the arrow is 7/8" from the bridge between the rest mount holes.
    That should put you very close even tho, at rest, the arrow will look like it is inside.
    If you need to adjust the up/down - move the nock point on the string, not the rest.

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    Senior Member bfisher's Avatar
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    I agree with Spiker on one thing. Set the rest 7/8" from the riser and try again. Although I bare shaft tune I have near perfect bare shaft flight with all three of my Ryteras set at 7/8". Yes, it doesn't line up with the string grooves in the cam, but that's where the bows tune.
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  7. #7
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    thanks for the tips....i have it close at this point after retiming my drop away....at point blank i get maybe 1/4" tip high and at 5 yards I am getting maybe 1/2" horizontal tip right.....after i get back from vacation on friday, I will try to mess with the drop away cord some more to see what I can do

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