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Thread: Using draw stop to adjust let off %

  1. #1
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    Default Using draw stop to adjust let off %

    seems i heard that the draw stop can be adjusted to raise or lower the percentage of let off. so which way increases toward 80% and which way toward 65%?

  2. #2
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    Don't move the draw stop, unless you mess with the cable and string length.

    If you just move the draw stop, you will also change the draw length.

    You can move the modules without moving the draw stop. If you don't touch the draw stop, but set the modules for an extra 1/2" of DL, you will reduce your let-off percentage.

    You can also retard your cams, by shortening the cables and/or lengthening the string. That will increase your draw weight and draw length. If you then move the draw stop to get the DL back to where it was, your let-off will be less at your DL than it was before.

  3. #3
    SonnyThomas
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    Default Using draw stop to adjust let off %

    Carlso, Martin's draw stop can be aggravating. If you don't have a 2010 manual you can down load one. Nice pics of timing cams. Cams synced and timed, the draw stop is backed off when doing such. Timed, at full draw have someone move the stop to the limb and snug down. Manual says to loosen and back off (away from the cam lobe) about a 1/32" to allow for the rubber cap (Knowing the difficulties you've had I hope yours has one) and tighten down. Basically, you should be at 80% letoff.

    Personally, I don't back off the 1/32". I want the most solid wall I can get and this, for me, eliminates that little of creep. When I stay solid on the wall of my Shadowcat I get the most accuracy.

    Coperter gave good information provided you are familiar with the procedures.

    I often say to use a fairly sharp lead pencil to mark around the draw stop peg. What it is, the lead pencil line is approx. 1/32". This not only gives reference for where the draw stop was, but also a good gage mark.
    Now, figure the width of the line, what little the pencil did not get up to the draw stop peg and then move the peg to cover the pencil line and you may have moved the draw stop by as much as 1/16". You will be surprised and perhaps like the draw length change with just this little movement.

  4. #4
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    you're right, sonny...no rubber cap. caveat emptor or something like that.

    wonder what else is screwed up on this bow. wish you lived a little closer and could get this thing done good and proper for me.

  5. #5
    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Hang in there Carlos, Step by step, Sonny is getting is getting you there, and when he's done , you'll know a lot about your bow.
    http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
    http://cascadianbowmen.com/
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

  6. #6
    SonnyThomas
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    Default Using draw stop to adjust let off %

    One of the hardest things about bows, getting all the misses out of them

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