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Thread: Pics for Floyd

  1. #11
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    Barry,
    I have taken the following pics, hope I'm not in violation on posting them for our discussion and follow on.

    The first pic show the x module on the lower limb. The second pic shows the end view of the lower cam with the x module being on the right side. The first question: if I remove the x module will I need a space on the axle to replace that space taken up by the x module? Second question is the spaces on the outside of the limb and on the axle. The smaller spacer, next to the limbs will need to be reversed and connected to the samller axle? Does the washer, white object need to stay between the space and limb? And lastly does the Martin CG5 cable guard what is recommended for this bow? If so what length does that guard need to be? My draw length is 28".

    Please review
    Thanks,
    Floyd
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  2. #12
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Good pics, Floyd, but like me you need to resize them (smaller) before posting.

    I'll tackle the 2nd question first. You see those little plastic buttons that the cable attaches to? When you put in the shorter axles these are about the only thing you need on the outside of the limb. You might need a thin nylon washer, too but I doubt it. It doesn't hurt if the axle can float back and forth just a tad.

    As I explained before, the process is simple. Put the bow in a press to remove limb tension. Remove an e-clip and all the spacers from one side of the axle. Tap the axle in so it's flush with the limb. Now take the button that the cable attaches to and slide it on a short axle and install e-clip on one end of the axle. Make sure the cable groove is facing outward. Now, using the short axle as a punch just tap it into the limb, driving the long axle out. Installing the axle this way keeps the cam from misaligning with the holes in the limb. Now install the other cable button and check for end play to see if you need an additional washer. If not then just put the other e-clipin place and you're done.

    Now for the modules. Your screws look easy enough to get at. Just remove the screws holding them on. Set the X mods aside as you won't need them. Then just use 3/8" mod screws to secure the standard mods. Make sure both mods are set to the same draw length hole. No other spacers are needed for the mods.

    Then just install your cables. Simple enough?

    Now the cable rod. You'll need a CG5 rod. My guess is the 8" length, but you're best off to call Joel at Martin Warranty service about this one. They're not listed in the 2011 parts catalog so they may not have any. In that case any dog legged cable guard will work so long as it's 3/8" diameter. Maybe Scepterman30 or Wisecane has one.

    By the way, did Scott ever reply to your PM?
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  3. #13
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    Barry,
    I think I have the procedure down. I haven't found any documentation that tells me what the draw lengths are for L stamped on the modules. Do you happen to know?
    Yes, scepter30x has replied to my PM.
    thks,
    Floyd

  4. #14
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Floyd View Post
    Barry,
    I think I have the procedure down. I haven't found any documentation that tells me what the draw lengths are for L stamped on the modules. Do you happen to know?
    Yes, scepter30x has replied to my PM.
    thks,
    Floyd
    Ask hi about ther draw length. I don't know the specs of the Furious cams.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
    Martin Gold Plus Staff Shooter
    Alien Mafia
    PSAA Life member, UBP Life member
    PADI AOW Diver

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