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Thread: Stabilizing a crack

  1. #31
    Senior Member Rockyhud's Avatar
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    I'll vouch for 3Rivers customer support being very good. When I was buying my Grizzly broadheads and screw-in adapters I called them and got some very good advice that enabled me to glue these pieces together about as perfectly as could be done. They spin-test very well and fly great. Just thought I'd pass on my two cents and experience with 3Rivers. BTW good luck with your repair project. And be watchful and careful afterward. We'd hate to hear about it causing anyone harm.
    08/12 Martin Firecat Pro-X (29" DL, 66# DW), Nitro 3 cams, home-made torque reducing cable guard rod, new VEMs, DS Advantage/HHA Pro-5519 front sight, No-Peep Sight Eliminator, Limb-Driver arrow rest, B-Stinger stabilizer, custom lower & upper STS with offset stops, G5 Head-Loc quiver on custom mounting bracket. Gold Tip Velocity XT300 arrows with Bi-Delta 2.5" Sharkstooth vanes and Grizzly single-bevel broadheads, 498 grains at 262 fps (22% FOC)

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibson 787 View Post
    Did you ask them if it's as suitable to use with glass as it is for wood? I found that the resins that come in 2 parts are generally the strongest. Also did you explain to them what your project is, they're known to be really helpful with their customers, I can vouch for that.

    Dave
    Well, no. I confess, I just read the text, the blue is for dis-similar materials. But I did email their cs including this thread, and my photos, and my plea for their help.
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  3. #33
    Senior Member alex's Avatar
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    I still think that drilling a tiny hole is a good idea (and now when Barry is with me i feel more confident ) If you just use superglue or epoxy enough of it won't penetrate in this microcrack, so at least you must prevent the split going further. And i'm sure that a 0.5mm hole deep 1-1.5mm won't hurt the limb any more then the crack.
    2008 Martin MOAB - 45-60#, set at about 51-53# / 55#" Perfect Line" compound/ 55# Mongol horsebow/ 45# "Perfect Line" takedown recurve/ 45# Bearpaw Grizzly hunter recurve/ 55# Samick Longbow Cheetah ... and several homemade bows

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    First, I would recommend replacing the limbs, but..........

    I like the idea of using a small drill to stop the crack from spreading. Being old school how about one of those old limb reinforcing buttons that used to be used in the forks of a lot of bows? This would likely give the limb tips some torsional support.
    Quote Originally Posted by alex View Post
    I still think that drilling a tiny hole is a good idea (and now when Barry is with me i feel more confident ) If you just use superglue or epoxy enough of it won't penetrate in this microcrack, so at least you must prevent the split going further. And i'm sure that a 0.5mm hole deep 1-1.5mm won't hurt the limb any more then the crack.
    I wasn't going to suggest this, but the shop I worked at many years ago was owned by an older gentleman that started shooting before compounds were invented. He had actually done this also when new limbs weren't an option, he would drill the hole at the very end of the crack all the way through. The round contour of the hole supposedly prevents the crack from continuing on down the limb. Not sure if this will work as the crack on your limb is not centered, it appears to be offcenter. As Barry suggested, use a limb reinforcement button of some type also. I really can't understand why manufacturers got away from using these in the 1st place as most limb failures start at the fork.

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  5. #35
    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by archerx7 View Post
    I wasn't going to suggest this, but the shop I worked at many years ago was owned by an older gentleman that started shooting before compounds were invented. He had actually done this also when new limbs weren't an option, he would drill the hole at the very end of the crack all the way through. The round contour of the hole supposedly prevents the crack from continuing on down the limb. Not sure if this will work as the crack on your limb is not centered, it appears to be offcenter. As Barry suggested, use a limb reinforcement button of some type also. I really can't understand why manufacturers got away from using these in the 1st place as most limb failures start at the fork.
    Like the pricipal of not using square windows in airplanes. 3 River Archery Cs emailed back that the 'Kwick-it' Red is the only glue that would work on this type of splinter. This hole doen't need to go compleatly thru, just thru the lamination?
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    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by elkslayer4x5 View Post
    Like the pricipal of not using square windows in airplanes. 3 River Archery Cs emailed back that the 'Kwick-it' Red is the only glue that would work on this type of splinter. This hole doen't need to go compleatly thru, just thru the lamination?
    If I understood my old mentor correctly, the hole goes all the way through, if not the crack can continue on the other side and will eventually reappear on the side the hole started from. Make any sense ?

    If you look closely at your pics, it appears the crack is all the way through at the fork, probably just a matter of time before it appears on the other side of the limb. All the more reason to stabilze the fork with some kind of reinforcement button.

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  7. #37
    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    Now why did'nt i think of that... drilling a hole at end of crack is how you fix cast iron.( heads/blocks etc).. they have a good point, & and Barry hit it right on the nose... old school limb reinforcement buttons.. feal a bit silly for not thinking of them.. It is a clamp that sits in bottom of limb fork. ole lynx has them. (Ed's ole bow)... this damn head cold wont go away.. snow last night dont help eather..
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
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  8. #38
    Senior Member alex's Avatar
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    We have a couple of circular saws for the table saw that are fixed like that ... and i still have my eyes and limbs
    2008 Martin MOAB - 45-60#, set at about 51-53# / 55#" Perfect Line" compound/ 55# Mongol horsebow/ 45# "Perfect Line" takedown recurve/ 45# Bearpaw Grizzly hunter recurve/ 55# Samick Longbow Cheetah ... and several homemade bows

  9. #39
    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by archerx7 View Post
    If I understood my old mentor correctly, the hole goes all the way through, if not the crack can continue on the other side and will eventually reappear on the side the hole started from. Make any sense ?

    If you look closely at your pics, it appears the crack is all the way through at the fork, probably just a matter of time before it appears on the other side of the limb. All the more reason to stabilze the fork with some kind of reinforcement button.
    I've looked really closely, and the crack doesn't go all the way thru the forks, I've marked where the crack/splinter stops top and bottom, on the inside of the forks, it appears to stop at the laminatinon.,
    Any idea on how large a hole I need to drill to check the progress of this crack and once I've drilled thru the limb, should I fill the drilled hole with the red Kwick-it?
    Last edited by elkslayer4x5; 02-25-2011 at 07:04 AM.
    http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
    http://www.cascadianbowmen.org/
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

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