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Thread: peep sight twist

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    Default peep sight twist

    Whats the best way to set up a tubless peep so it doesnt twist? I've always used the tube style that mounted to the limb and always hated it

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpalt1 View Post
    Whats the best way to set up a tubless peep so it doesnt twist? I've always used the tube style that mounted to the limb and always hated it
    The best solution is quality rigging. Lot of good string makers out there, and a couple here on this board. Your stirng has probably streched all its going to if you've shot your bow for more that a few years. What are you shooting and how long have you had it?
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    I'm setting up a new cheetah mag. and was wondering if i should use an anchor sight until i shoot in the string or are helix strings no twist? I've tried anchorless peeps in the past and got to fustrated with them because of twist.
    I've been looking for a link to see a quality install and explanation on how to set one up so it doesnt twist but havent found a good one yet.

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    Senior Member NuttyNative's Avatar
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    You can put speed studs in the string to control peep rotation. http://www.cabelas.com/product/G5-Sp...h-All+Products
    Slide them up or down to control where the peep will line up. You can also counter twist the D loop so that when you pull back on the draw the string will rotate to where it needs to be.
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    The best way to keep a peep fom turning is to have a good string on the bow, which is usually not the case with factory strings, although this is changing along with other technology. Thus the popularity of aftermarket strings.

    Another is to add twists to the string that's on the bow. Without seeing it, most strings don't comewith enough twists to make all the strands work together. This creates an imbalance in the workload. As the bow is drawn, more of the forces in the bow limbs are transferred from the string to the cables. Therefore a string that is not balanced well will tend to rotate, taking the peep with it. Adding twists can alleviate some of this imbalance, thus stabilizing the string.

    Look at your present string. There should be one complete twist for every 1 1/2" of it's length, or about that. Little more each way isn't critical. The only problem with twisting an original equipment string is that it may not have been made long enough to do so without throwing the bow out of specs so you have to pay attention to this little detail, too.

    You can also "train" a string. This entails positioning the peep so that it rotates to the desired position at full draw. I used to do this religiously until just a few years ago when I learned that quality strings were ultimately the final answer. Training a string isn't the end all either because as the string ages it will creep more resulting in the peep changing position so you have to make adjustments during the strings life. Again, good aftermarket strings are more stable and don't do this.

    Playing around with the position of a string loop is often recommended by what I like to call amateurs. It's bandaid on a major problem in my book. And what about those of us that don't use a string loop? Why do people assume everybody uses a string loop? And besides, a string loop should be installed so it doesn't rotate around the string. Another detail to pay attention to. It should face straight back and stay that way.
    Last edited by bfisher; 02-23-2011 at 09:14 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    And besides, a string loop should be installed so it doesn't rotate around the string. Another detail to pay attention to. It should face straight back and stay that way.
    I never thought of this until reading these lines. However, shouldn't the string stretch/unravel/untwist over the entire distance of the string, not just the area around the peep sight? If so wouldn't the loop move just like the peep? It seems odd to me that a loop would stay straight back yet a peep a few inches above can move drastically.
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    Thks bfisher your answer thats the info i was looking for. I gather from your response even the helix string on my new bow is sub par to custom strings. I counted the twists and thier within the parameters you stated so i'll set it up and see what happens. I just wish the darn snow would melt so i can shoot lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpalt1 View Post
    Thks bfisher your answer thats the info i was looking for. I gather from your response even the helix string on my new bow is sub par to custom strings. I counted the twists and thier within the parameters you stated so i'll set it up and see what happens. I just wish the darn snow would melt so i can shoot lol
    IMO the Double Helix strings are hit or miss. Some are good and some are less than good. They hold the bow together and make it shootable, but may or may not be very stable. If I were you I'd go ahead and shoot the bow a lot, when you get the chance. The string might just settle down over time.

    Before you do much shooting though, take a pencil and mark the cam position where it passes through the limb fork; right along the lib on the left side of the cam. Measure the a2a and brace height. Measure the draw elgtnh of the bow; just string groove to grip as it's just for later reference. Weigh the bow so you know the actual draw weight. Check the position of the rest. Measure the nocking point, kisser button, and peep height in relation to somewhere on the bow; I like to use the top axle. Record these so you can tell if the string/cables creep and you can tell where everything needs to go when and if you twist the string/cables later.

    By the way. Record these measurements every time you have a bow setup and tuned just the way you like it. Comes in handy if and when you change the rigging. Much better than having to retune from scratch every time you make a change.
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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLN1963 View Post
    I never thought of this until reading these lines. However, shouldn't the string stretch/unravel/untwist over the entire distance of the string, not just the area around the peep sight? If so wouldn't the loop move just like the peep? It seems odd to me that a loop would stay straight back yet a peep a few inches above can move drastically.
    You are partly right. Serving is what keeps the string from "unraveling" over it's entire length, but in time everything will even out. That's how servings get loose and separate or slide in severe cases. There can be a little change in the loop position over time, but think about it. How's it going to twist when you have a release hooked to it and drawing it back? If it's tied correctly then it can only move if the serving moves.

    My point is that a string loop is not intended to keep the peep from rotating. Good strings is the proper answer. And really, get on AT and start pricing strings/cables. There are some aftermarket guys making quality stuff that cost no more than the run-of-the-mill stuff hanging in most shops.
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    Great info
    ! really appreciate the help thks

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