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Thread: Cam Rotation: Over/under rotated

  1. #11
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    Just got done reading the AT sticky and all the other attached threads within. When I get home tonight, I'll take a look at my static cam position and see how wrapped up the cam is and make some adjustments and see what happens. I also want to play around with the draw stop to reduce the let-off and see what happens there. From the factory, let off was set at 80%. Draw length was set at 29 with the mod, but on the draw board it measures 29.5. To get back to a 29 DL, part of that can be done with the draw stop, AM I RIGHT? Should I twist the string, or does that counter act the cable twisting to wrap up the cams????
    -2011 Martin Silencer 63# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .029 sight, Alpine Whisperflite drop away rest, Alpine 5 arrow quiver, G5 1/4" Meta Peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Warrior and Expedition Hunter (385gr), G5 Montec
    -2011 Martin Silencer, 73# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .019 sight, QAD Ultra Rest Pro LD, Tight Spot 5 arrow quiver, 1/4" G5 Meta peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 7595 camo (441gr), G5 Montec BH.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Yes, twisting the string will undo what you are doing with the cables. The net result, if you do both, is that you'll put more prebend on the limbs and increase the draw weight a bit.

    Here's another one for thought. You can follow the path to optimizing the cam rotation, which will increase the draw length. If you wrap them both up 1/4" this should increase the draw by 1/2". Then your bow will be at 30". Put in the next smaller module and you're back down to 29". Give it a try.

    Only problem I see with this is that wrapping the cams up tight is to produce more speed, but then dropping the module down you lose speed. It sounds almost like a wash to me, but then I've never done it so how would I know for sure.

    Besides, my chrono bit the dust a couple years ago and I haven't replaced it. I got the sh!t's of chasing speed with a 27" draw. I get what I get. Shooting 3D I've had bows that shot 250fps, and I had one that shot 300fps and never missed a target because of lack of speed. Penetration on animals? I've blwn through with arrows hitting 280 fps and arrows shooting 180fps.
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  3. #13
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    barry,
    When I did it on my Firecat I gained a few fps but mainly it reduced the noticable hump at the end of the draw cycle making it a little more pleasant to shoot.
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  4. #14
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    Thanks fellas for all the help. Tonight after work I'll get my cams wrapped up and play with the draw stop/let off and report back.

    Any other ideas out there??
    -2011 Martin Silencer 63# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .029 sight, Alpine Whisperflite drop away rest, Alpine 5 arrow quiver, G5 1/4" Meta Peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Warrior and Expedition Hunter (385gr), G5 Montec
    -2011 Martin Silencer, 73# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .019 sight, QAD Ultra Rest Pro LD, Tight Spot 5 arrow quiver, 1/4" G5 Meta peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 7595 camo (441gr), G5 Montec BH.

  5. #15
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    Advancing or retarding the cams, is something a bunch of people believe wholeheartedly, will allow them to find a "sweet spot", that allows them to achieve greater efficiency from their bow.

    For the most part, it's a myth.

    Changing cam timing, does a few things to effect speed. Sometimes, we fail to measure the "important stuff" that changes when we play with cam timing.

    Things like brace height, draw length, and draw weight.

    With Binary cams, like the CAT, Hybrix, and Nitro, it can even change the DFC, and holding weight.

    However, while that "important stuff" effects speed, it doesn't do it by changing the bow's efficiency.

    It changes how much energy you invest during the draw. If you put more in, you get more out.

    A compound bow, is a machine. It's a simple machine.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spiker View Post
    I only use them terms because the word 'retarded' gets banned.
    Actually, that was my fault!

  7. #17
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Doc, what's DFC?

    Also you're going to have a PM in a minute.
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  8. #18
    SonnyThomas
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    Default Cam Rotation: Over/under rotated

    Quote Originally Posted by copterdoc View Post
    Advancing or retarding the cams, is something a bunch of people believe wholeheartedly, will allow them to find a "sweet spot", that allows them to achieve greater efficiency from their bow.

    For the most part, it's a myth.

    A compound bow, is a machine. It's a simple machine.
    I thought done in bold was better. Excellent reply, copterdoc.

    As bf asked; DFC?

  9. #19
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    Draw force curve.

    Since each Binary cam actually has TWO cable tracks, they interact with each other, and effect DFC.

    You only move or replace, one cable track (the module) on each cam, to change DL, however moving the draw stop changes where the cam stops at full draw.

    Since the cam stops at a different point, the second cable track is able to effect the DFC. that's why you start to get a "hump" in the back end of the draw cycle on the CAT cam, if you set it at the top end of the module range.

    By retarding the cams, and moving the modules to a shorter DL setting, you can still achieve the same DL as before, but you lose the "hump".

  10. #20
    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    excellent information from the Doc...again you should write a book on nos cam's my man
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
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